Dual Porch Lights - How-to
LC250 Rear Hatch Dimmable Light Solution Install For Xterra
This is how to install two LC250 tailgate LED light assembles on the Xterra rear hatch panel.
The lights are sold in single units available on Amazon - High Flying LC250
- 18 LEDs per light
- Touch control On/Off
- Touch control dimmable
- Designed for the Land Cruiser rear hatch, so include good lengths of wire and connectors.
I evaluated a number of light options, including the KC Hilites used by others. These LC250 lights - when installed - looked like factory.
These lights also have 18 LEDS, while the KC Cyclones have 15. The output is comparable and the LC250 High Flying are cheaper.
Why 2 lights? The benefit is that both sides of the cargo area can be illuminated, meaning less shadows. It is also much brighter.
Wiring
The cargo light can be tapped before it enters the cargo light assembly. It has power at all times WHEN GROUNDED. The Xterra uses switched grounds for the cargo lighting and the hatch open/close switch. Note that both dome lights must be set in the middle position which is Door - as they are On/Door/Off 3 way switches. Switching off affects the downstream power.
For this install:
The lights will be wired in a 2 ground option using a On-Off-On 3 way rocker switch.
- ground to cargo light BCM ground
- ground to hatch open/close switch ground
- Both cases 12v power is supplies by the cargo light power wire BEFORE cargo light
- For 1) ground is connected to the cargo light holed metal plate with a small bolt/nut.
- Requires a 1N4007 Diode to be placed at hatch open/close wiring junction, so power does not go to the BCM, only to ground.
Scenario 1) light is on when you open door, off when you close and times out after 15-30 minutes with BCM control of ground.
Scenario 2) light is on when you open door and off when you close door with no time out
The High Flying LC250 kits come with enough wiring to do the whole job. You may need some additional wire and definitely a lot of wire connectors, depending on how you cut up the harnesses. It is best to re-use the male and female sets of connectors that were meant for connecting to the Land Cruiser wiring for the connections between the inner door panel and the outer door.
The required 1N4007 diode is available on Amazon here. It is not automotive grade, but is fine for LED lighting. You can get an automotive grade from Roadmaster, but it is pricey.
Installation
Cut the double connector end off of one of the wire harnesses (to be used later). Feed the wire cable through the door grommet so one end comes out the inside of the door and the other (cut) end can then be wired into the cargo light.
The red/yellow power wire and the blue BCM ground are taped down to the top of the headliner. Use a flathead screwdriver to detach tape. Splice into the red/yellow power wire for power wire from harness. Use a small bolt and nut to secure the harness ground to the holed plate of the cargo light. Ry the Car guy has a video demonstrating this process here.
For the other end in door, run to center of door and the cut so that you have 6 inches or so length to hang free. Use zip ties to secure to existing cable. Splice a male connector from the harness to the end.
Find the yellow open/close wire in the door wiring. Splice in the diode - anode towards top of door - IN and then the cathode towards the bottom with the existing wire and a new length to serve as a ground. It should be able to hang free at least 6 inches or so. Splice a male connector from the harness to the end. Note that we are only using the ground in this connector.
The lights can be installed 2 ways:
- cut-outs can be made in panel for the lights to insert in
- light plastic tabs can be cut off and the light can be glued to the panel - with a hole for wiring
I opted for the 1st scenario, as the hatch door can slam hard, testing any glue.
For the installation of the lights, care must be taken as there are connectors on the inside of the panel to attach to the door, so you cannot cut just anywhere.
The tabs of the lights also require room, so the right hand light must be to the edge of the panel, so its left facing tabs fit. This means 0.7 to 1 cm from edge.
Do the right hand light first ensuring that it and the left hand are even by masking off with tape. Use a dremel with a cutting disc to cut the initial 5 cm x 11 cm hole. Start smaller and try fitting light. Shave off more until it starts fitting. There is a 4 cm lip that must be cut so the light will fit. Take care cutting.
The lights will snap in once the hole is the correct size. The inert tabs may not hold the light in, so I used Gorilla glue to seal and weighed down with dumbells for 12+ hours to cure.
Drill a hole for the 3 way switch towards the top of the left hand side of the Emergency Kit alcove.
Wire the lights together joining the power and ground together.
Wire the joined ground to the center pin of the switch.
Wire a new ground to the top of the switch. Together with the power this will run a length of 3-4 feet with a female connector from the harness at the end.
Wire a new ground to the bottom of switch. Alone, this will run a length of 3-4 feet with a female connector from the harness at the end.
Attach the panel back to the door.
The power/ground will attach the the power ground from the cargo light.
The lone ground will attach to the ground from the open/close switch in the door.
Try to test before fully attaching panel. Take care that you do not rip connections apart by dropping panel. 2 people is a good idea.
Video of lights in action is in my previous post here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1tic8p0/dual_porch_lights/
Fin