r/XTerra
Dual Porch Lights - How-to
LC250 Rear Hatch Dimmable Light Solution Install For Xterra
This is how to install two LC250 tailgate LED light assembles on the Xterra rear hatch panel.
The lights are sold in single units available on Amazon - High Flying LC250
- 18 LEDs per light
- Touch control On/Off
- Touch control dimmable
- Designed for the Land Cruiser rear hatch, so include good lengths of wire and connectors.
I evaluated a number of light options, including the KC Hilites used by others. These LC250 lights - when installed - looked like factory.
These lights also have 18 LEDS, while the KC Cyclones have 15. The output is comparable and the LC250 High Flying are cheaper.
Why 2 lights? The benefit is that both sides of the cargo area can be illuminated, meaning less shadows. It is also much brighter.
Wiring
The cargo light can be tapped before it enters the cargo light assembly. It has power at all times WHEN GROUNDED. The Xterra uses switched grounds for the cargo lighting and the hatch open/close switch. Note that both dome lights must be set in the middle position which is Door - as they are On/Door/Off 3 way switches. Switching off affects the downstream power.
For this install:
The lights will be wired in a 2 ground option using a On-Off-On 3 way rocker switch.
- ground to cargo light BCM ground
- ground to hatch open/close switch ground
- Both cases 12v power is supplies by the cargo light power wire BEFORE cargo light
- For 1) ground is connected to the cargo light holed metal plate with a small bolt/nut.
- Requires a 1N4007 Diode to be placed at hatch open/close wiring junction, so power does not go to the BCM, only to ground.
Scenario 1) light is on when you open door, off when you close and times out after 15-30 minutes with BCM control of ground.
Scenario 2) light is on when you open door and off when you close door with no time out
The High Flying LC250 kits come with enough wiring to do the whole job. You may need some additional wire and definitely a lot of wire connectors, depending on how you cut up the harnesses. It is best to re-use the male and female sets of connectors that were meant for connecting to the Land Cruiser wiring for the connections between the inner door panel and the outer door.
The required 1N4007 diode is available on Amazon here. It is not automotive grade, but is fine for LED lighting. You can get an automotive grade from Roadmaster, but it is pricey.
Installation
Cut the double connector end off of one of the wire harnesses (to be used later). Feed the wire cable through the door grommet so one end comes out the inside of the door and the other (cut) end can then be wired into the cargo light.
The red/yellow power wire and the blue BCM ground are taped down to the top of the headliner. Use a flathead screwdriver to detach tape. Splice into the red/yellow power wire for power wire from harness. Use a small bolt and nut to secure the harness ground to the holed plate of the cargo light. Ry the Car guy has a video demonstrating this process here.
For the other end in door, run to center of door and the cut so that you have 6 inches or so length to hang free. Use zip ties to secure to existing cable. Splice a male connector from the harness to the end.
Find the yellow open/close wire in the door wiring. Splice in the diode - anode towards top of door - IN and then the cathode towards the bottom with the existing wire and a new length to serve as a ground. It should be able to hang free at least 6 inches or so. Splice a male connector from the harness to the end. Note that we are only using the ground in this connector.
The lights can be installed 2 ways:
- cut-outs can be made in panel for the lights to insert in
- light plastic tabs can be cut off and the light can be glued to the panel - with a hole for wiring
I opted for the 1st scenario, as the hatch door can slam hard, testing any glue.
For the installation of the lights, care must be taken as there are connectors on the inside of the panel to attach to the door, so you cannot cut just anywhere.
The tabs of the lights also require room, so the right hand light must be to the edge of the panel, so its left facing tabs fit. This means 0.7 to 1 cm from edge.
Do the right hand light first ensuring that it and the left hand are even by masking off with tape. Use a dremel with a cutting disc to cut the initial 5 cm x 11 cm hole. Start smaller and try fitting light. Shave off more until it starts fitting. There is a 4 cm lip that must be cut so the light will fit. Take care cutting.
The lights will snap in once the hole is the correct size. The inert tabs may not hold the light in, so I used Gorilla glue to seal and weighed down with dumbells for 12+ hours to cure.
Drill a hole for the 3 way switch towards the top of the left hand side of the Emergency Kit alcove.
Wire the lights together joining the power and ground together.
Wire the joined ground to the center pin of the switch.
Wire a new ground to the top of the switch. Together with the power this will run a length of 3-4 feet with a female connector from the harness at the end.
Wire a new ground to the bottom of switch. Alone, this will run a length of 3-4 feet with a female connector from the harness at the end.
Attach the panel back to the door.
The power/ground will attach the the power ground from the cargo light.
The lone ground will attach to the ground from the open/close switch in the door.
Try to test before fully attaching panel. Take care that you do not rip connections apart by dropping panel. 2 people is a good idea.
Video of lights in action is in my previous post here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1tic8p0/dual_porch_lights/
Fin
My 12 pro4x just bedlined a lot of the plastic but still more to do
Some pics of now, little before the bed liner, and some of when I first purchased it.
Doing the work yourself feels so good.
It's nothing major, but I changed the brake pads and rotors of my 02 SE today. I'm not a car guy, but it felt really good to do the work myself, get my hands dirty, and learn something about my own vehicle.
One day I'll be at the level of some of y'all, but for now I celebrate the little victory. 🤘🏻
Looking to Sell Xterra
Looking to sell my 2007 Xterra X RWD as I plan on buying a Mazda 3 Sedan and don’t have space for her anymore.
225,xxx Miles, Engine runs strong and Transmission is ~10 years old. New Radiator, Thermostat, Tires, Suspension (aside from leafsprings).
Scratched on drivers side from an accident in the past alongside a dent in the driverside rear quarter panel.
Power Steering Pump needs to be replaced.
She’s a real fixer upper but I was hoping someone can take better care of her.
Looking to get at least $1,500 OBO. What do you guys think is a good price? Frame is solid and no huge mechanical issues. Oil changes done regularly if that matters.
Ripples in the Metail in the Rain Channel/on Roof
I just bought a 2010 SE 4x4 (125k miles, one owner, no reported accidents) and while treating the plastic on the air damn/wind fairing and basket, I noticed these ripples in the rain channel. The extend the entire length of the driver's side and they are also present on the passenger side above the front passenger door. Ive owned both a 2011 and 2015 in the past and do not remember having these. Anybody else have them and if so, do you know what the story is with them?
What is this hose?
Hey folks, brand new to Xterra ownership having just received my mom's old 2003 3.3L V6 SE as a hand me down. It's in pretty good shape, had the timing belt done at 160K, but there is this one hose in the bay that's making me concerned. It's brittle and has some mouse bite marks from its time in the country.
I am NOT a mechanic and I need to know what this hose is, can anyone help?
Dual Porch Lights
Dual HIGH FLYING Hatch Door Lights for Toyota Land Cruiser Prado LC250 installed.
Automatically come on when door opens and turn off when closed. 3 way switch to have on time out with the cargo hatch light or on until door closed (not shown).
Touch on/off with dimming. Insane brightness at full setting, especially with two.
Need help identifying this CV boot! (Titan swap)
Hi guys, I did a Titan swap on my Xterra a few years ago and I'm now trying to replace the inner CV boots since they're torn. The problem is I can't remember what axles I'm running. I want to say some kind of Infiniti? I'm using the stock Xterra diff, so they're not Titan axle shafts. The boots that came off are this weird tri-lobe shape on the inside. None of the ones I've found so far will fit this, they're all just round on the inside. Does anyone know what these are? TIA
2013 rear liftgate trim clips
I have a rattle in the rear liftgate of my 2013 xterra. I took off the trim and found two broken clips at the top of the panel. They are triangular metal clips, kind of like a small binder clip. Additionally I broke a different retaining clip while dealing with this, it looks like a small black plastic “doughnut” that a metal stud on the rear liftgate snaps into.
The problem is I am having a hell of a time finding these parts online. Or even a detailed parts diagram. Does anyone have any suggestions for places I could look these up? Or even potential part numbers I could look up?
Thank you in advance, any help would be GREATLY appreciated
Advice on Trading Xterra for a Frontier
TLDR: Should I replace my '06 Xterra with 320K miles for a '19 Frontier with ~100K miles
Hey yall, been running into a dilemma here. I have had my '06 Xterra since about 2018 and love it but it recently hit 320K miles with~250 on the engine, it blew the first year I had it so I replaced it with a used engine. There are some issues coming up however and I’ve been looking at newer Frontiers specifically in the 2015-2019 range. Basically I am debating between dropping $3k on a down payment for a Frontier or putting it into fixing the X. Just looking to hear some recommendations and advice from the community on what might be the smartest move. I also have a very cheap ($20/month) lease on a '25 Leaf at the moment but that sweet sweet deal ends this September.
My Xterra Cons
· The suspension needs an overhaul
· Rust. Frame is ok but the bumper and body have a good deal of rust throughout
· Throwing a code for the Cat. Worried about emissions which I need to get done soon or sell the car
· Engine has $250K miles
· Transmission has ~150-200k miles on it. Previous owner replaced it due to SMOD but I lost the paperwork for it so I cant remember where it sits
· A few HVAC parts starting to fail including AC compressor
· Maybe other problems. Planning on taking to a mechanic to get a rundown on what needs to be replaced
Xterra Pros
· Despite the mileage the engine and transmission are running great. I can feel any loss in power
· No car payment
· Got a lot of memories with the car
· I can do most of the work on my own to fix it up
Frontier Pros
· Much newer with a reliable engine and drive train
· Can have better storage which would be nice for long camping trips
· Nice to change it up a little (even though theyre nearly the same)
· Easy to find a lower mileage one that isn’t beat up around me
Frontier Cons
· I don’t really like having car payments. Budget is under 20K
· Always a chance that it ends up being a lemon
· I will be shunned by the Xterra community
Secret third option is to keep the X and buy a cheap miata/equivalent as my daily.
Worth it?
Took it to replace the stereo and they broke it, would it be worth to replace it with another console from eBay or just leave it as it is and take the cash for the replacement?
What is that sound from?
I have a 09 xterra and i just noticed it make this sound when at a low idle in park, any clue what it is or if it’s bad? Kinda just sounds like something is loose somewhere
Slight over heating issue(s)
Hey everyone so I have my x jacked up to the highest point. (Pic for reference) did the thermostat, water pump and timing belt not to long ago. I’m at 858 miles since I’ve last did it. Today I had a slight increase on my gauge on my way to the store. Slowly climbed up to the hot side. Parked immediately and shut it off. Not sure if I may still have a little air in my line or not so I’m re burping cus I heard slight bubbling from the reservoir. My question is how long should I do this burp system to try and remove any trapped air? I also have no heater; heater core is bypassed. Haven’t had any issues until today. So I’m topping off and doing another burp and see where that takes me. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thinking about selling my 2014
I’ve loved it since the first time I ever sat behind the wheel, but it doesn’t see the road too much the last few years and in my head I’m like why am I paying to insure this? Thinking about seeking my 2014 S with 185k. It’s never had any serious issues and still drives great. What do you think it’s worth?
Camping in the North (take 2)
Went up camping with a Joytutas SUV tent. Also took her off road and I'm thinking I need a bit better shocks/springs and maybe a lift with some bigger tires.
This is my 2nd Xterra (2015 Pro-4x).
Looking for any recommendations of things I can do while not being very mechanically inclined hah
2011 Xterra ECM question
I have a 2011 Xterra s. Bought brand new. 200k miles. Garage kept, beautiful overall. Recently received check engine light code 430. Downstream O2 sensor bad catalytic converter fault . took it to a guy in my town known for mufflers and catalytics. He said the catalytic is fine the muffler is fine 02 is fine. However the problem is that the ECM sending crazy signals. I need a new ECM he has seen it before. Nissan doesn't make the ECM anymore. There's a company online that sells aftermarket and a few people that sells them on programmed. My question is will the ECM solve it? He said if I didn't get the ECM that the catalytic would eventually burn up because it gets extremely hot with all the mixed signals. And do you trust buying one from these aftermarket places?
Tires
Hey hey hey!
New to Xterra world. Got my 2013 4wd a week ago go.
What type of tires should I get to comfortably go camping? And what brand?