Has anyone ever tried or had any luck with Lidocaine or even Capsaicin patches on feet or hands? I'm 4 years post GBS and my left foot especially never recovered sensation other than tingling & pain and it dials the pain volume up to 11 in the evening and when I've over done it - especially the plantar / metatarsals where toes connect to foot. TYSM for any advice!
Not as good as the 4 Rhinegold beer cans bent to form a frame with plaster of paris to hold up a forced hot air duct but still a great artifact.
For context a 4 stick carton cost @ $.75¢ to $.85¢ in 1972
Ripping up the porcelain tile and I've got the original 1953 linoleum underneath exposed obviously. I'm going to be installing 5 mm WVP (ik - 5 mm is 💩 and asking for future trouble but this install is only meant to be temporary (2-5 years) and it's only a 100sf kitchen with at best 30sf high traffic area) of Lowe's style brand #1857680 w/ 12 mil wear layer with a quiet walk 1.4 mm underlay.
Pic 1: is there such a thing as too much space on the perimeter? The grout was the support there after the original sheetrock was removed and as you can see there is a base between the wall and the subfloor. Should I fill it or let it be? If fill it what product?
Pic 2: for the portions of the floor where the linoleum came up and the subfloor is exposed, do I fill those or let it be and same question what product?
Pic 3: where the stove is, no linoleum there but it's going to be a place to stove and forget it. Should I worry about the different heights with the missing linoleum?
Pic 4: as far as I'm concerned they went nuts with hammering down the lathe but my question is once I get all of the lathe from underneath the nails, should ALL of the nails come up or just the ones that are proud and Hammer down the rest? If ALL the nails come up should I be concerned about the 70 year old linoleum (that appears to be adhered to a super slim particle board like material that doesn't resemble any underlay that I'm familiar with) no longer being secured to the subfloor and slipping or bubbling?
Pic 5: would it be best to go with a wide saddle to accommodate the length of the door jamb due to a) the lvp will be parallel with the current wood floor you see b) the transition subfloor being higher than the kitchen subfloor and just shave the saddle from underneath?
Pic 6: is the transition to what used to be the garage as a step down and I'm thinking 3/4 round should be good but my concern is the new lvp will be parallel with the step down and I'm concerned about the saddle
Pic 7: steps down to the basement I'm planning to leave the tile trim and don't see any concerns as the new lvp will be perpendicular to it but would love some thoughts
I know the GIs flooding in from NYC thought that this was a square footage Paradise compared to their apartments but God help me that linoleum is ugly and thank God it's only a hundred square feet!
Thanks to all who contribute and I'm very grateful!
Ripping up the porcelain tile and I've got the original 1953 linoleum underneath exposed obviously. I'm going to be installing 5 mm WVP (ik - 5 mm is 💩 and asking for future trouble but this install is only meant to be temporary (2-5 years) and it's only a 100sf kitchen with at best 30sf high traffic area) of Lowe's style brand #1857680 w/ 12 mil wear layer with a quiet walk 1.4 mm underlay.
Pic 1: is there such a thing as too much space on the perimeter? The grout was the support there after the original sheetrock was removed and as you can see there is a base between the wall and the subfloor. Should I fill it or let it be? If fill it what product?
Pic 2: for the portions of the floor where the linoleum came up and the subfloor is exposed, do I fill those or let it be and same question what product?
Pic 3: where the stove is, no linoleum there but it's going to be a place to stove and forget it. Should I worry about the different heights with the missing linoleum?
Pic 4: as far as I'm concerned they went nuts with hammering down the lathe but my question is once I get all of the lathe from underneath the nails, should ALL of the nails come up or just the ones that are proud and Hammer down the rest? If ALL the nails come up should I be concerned about the 70 year old linoleum (that appears to be adhered to a super slim particle board like material that doesn't resemble any underlay that I'm familiar with) no longer being secured to the subfloor and slipping or bubbling?
Pic 5: would it be best to go with a wide saddle to accommodate the length of the door jamb due to a) the lvp will be parallel with the current wood floor you see b) the transition subfloor being higher than the kitchen subfloor and just shave the saddle from underneath?
Pic 6: is the transition to what used to be the garage as a step down and I'm thinking 3/4 round should be good but my concern is the new lvp will be parallel with the step down and I'm concerned about the saddle
Pic 7: steps down to the basement I'm planning to leave the tile trim and don't see any concerns as the new lvp will be perpendicular to it but would love some thoughts
I know the GIs flooding in from NYC thought that this was a square footage Paradise compared to their apartments but God help me that linoleum is ugly and thank God it's only a hundred square feet!
Thanks to all who contribute and I'm very grateful!