u/Dragsteps

Hey everyone,

I’d like to preface this by saying that I have nearly zero knowledge about fixing or even diagnosing cars myself. Every test/step/idea I did was done using AI and google searches, including this post. I had ChatGPT write a summary of everything we have discussed the past few days and copy pasted it here (I did edit the final version and added/corrected some facts, so if you read something completely dumb feel free to call it out).

I’m currently having a cooling issue on my 2022 ST. My radiator fans are completely dead, and I'm trying to figure out if this is a quick electrical fix or a deeper problem before I resort to leaving it at the dealership.

Here is the backstory: A few months ago, I was in a front-end collision. I had to replace the entire front fascia, along with (all brand new OEM parts):

Radiator Assembly
A/C Condenser Assembly
Radiator Cooling Fan and Motor Assembly
Front End Core Support Assembly

Right after that repair, the A/C started making a brief hissing sound for about 5 seconds at startup. The mechanic told me it was fine and would eventually go away. Well, it didn't. It lasted until a few days ago. I noticed this gradually, but every time the car idled for more than a minute, that hissing got louder and the A/C cooling dropped off slightly. I figured it was just a slow refrigerant leak that would need an easy fix and refrigerant top-up, but it kept getting worse.

Yesterday, however, I got stuck in traffic for about 2 or 3 minutes with the A/C on. The air went totally warm, followed by a "Coolant Temperature High" warning on the dash. I pulled over immediately and shut the car off. After a few minutes, I started it back up, kept the A/C completely off, and was able to drive home with normal engine temps and no warnings.

I took it to the Ford dealership the following day since I have an extended warranty. They told me I’d have to leave the car for 5 working days just for the initial inspection, and the paperwork literally stated they could hold the car for up to 45 days to complete the repair! I booked an appointment for next week just in case, but I walked out because I don’t want to be without a car that long if this is just a quick and cheap electrical fix. I went to a car guy I know to check out the issue but he couldn’t figure it out. Here is what we verified and tested so far:

The fan is dead: We started the car and cranked the A/C to Max to force the computer to jumpstart the fans. The fan still didn't spin at all.

The Fan Blades: With the engine off, the blades turn completely freely. The motor isn’t mechanically seized.

The Control Fuse: We tested the small Yellow 20A mini fuse (Fuse 8), which supposedly handles the fan relay coil and active grille shutters. The test probe lit up on both pins, so the control side is getting power. (This may not be 100% accurate as the fuse box lid does not have a diagram for some reason, and googling diagrams, I think Middle East explorers have different fuse box configurations? Attached a photo of mine)

The Main Plug (The Fail): The guy put a test probe directly into the thick, heavy-duty electrical wire bundle plug that feeds into the fan shroud pane. It did not light up. There is no power reaching the fan plug itself.

Since the top control fuse is fine but power is physically missing at the fan plug, I’m trying to trace the break. Could the body shop have pinched/cut the main power harness during the post-collision rebuild? Or are we looking at a blown high-amp internal fusible link or a dead relay embedded inside the fuse box? Is there something that I should inspect before giving up my car for god knows how long at the dealership?

Has anyone dealt with a similar problem?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Alright, fellow ST brothers

I know this is an embarrassingly niche problem, but I have a 2022 Ford Explorer ST (Middle East spec) and had to remove the hood EXPLORER lettering to get the hood PPF’d. I tried to stick them back on today using a placement guide I found online (first picture white Explorer) that was labeled 2020+ Explorer and so I assumed it should apply to my car. The guide says to place the letters 1 inch up from the bottom of the hood lip, but there is no way that measurement is correct for my car. The letters ended up sitting noticeably too high, as shown in the second photo.

That means either there are slight hood or placement differences across the 2020+ model years, or the guide is simply inaccurate. So I’m specifically looking for measurements from a 2022 Explorer ST, preferably with the original factory lettering still in place.

Does anyone have exact factory measurements for:

- Distance from the bottom/front edge of the hood lip to the bottom of the letters
- Spacing between each letter
- Distance from the left and right sides
- Overall width of the full “EXPLORER” word

A foolproof method, printable template, photos with a tape measure, or any other hack or resource would also be greatly appreciated. I just want to reinstall the original letters in the exact factory position without buying another set unnecessarily.

Appreciate any help!

Hey guys,

A friend borrowed my ZP6S grinder for a few days and returned it a while ago. Today was the first time I tried using it since getting it back, as I’ve been using another grinder.

When I tried to adjust the dial ring, I noticed that the clicking stops at number 4 for some reason. If I apply slight force and rotate beyond 4, the ring turns freely with no tactile or audible clicks at all, almost as if it has completely disengaged from the burrs. The clicks only return when I rotate back into the 0–4 range.

I decided to take the whole thing apart after watching some videos and gave it a thorough cleaning. However, when reassembling it, the problem became worse. When I get to installing the adjustment ring, it screws in until it stops, but it doesn’t begin clicking after that, it just gets stuck. I’m referring to the step shown between 2:40 and 2:50 in this video:

https://youtu.be/Y7qEtAZKbq4?si=1S50Npc7\_iI2lhR5

I also tried unscrewing the lower burr ring, but that seems to be stuck as well and won’t budge.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? How do I fix it?

The grinder is practically like new since I haven’t used it much. I asked my friend if he did anything to it but he said he didn’t notice anything unusual and that he didn’t drop/damage it.

Any help would be appreciated