St John, Smithfield
Here’s yet another review no one’s asked for of one of the most seemingly controversial places on this sub: St John.
1: Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad
2: Pickled Mackerel, Potato and Spinach
3: John Dory, Red Wine Leeks and Mayonnaise
4: Manhattan
5: Welsh Rarebit
6: Hazelnut Ripple Ice Cream
7: Madeleines Half Dozen.
First and foremost: the service and ambience.
First time at St John; the service from my main waitress was absolutely demonstrably fine, it’s a busy place so was not expecting the usual service I receive at Michelin restaurants or “fine dining” restaurants in general. Before ordering she didn’t seem very pleased to be serving me (I’m young and dine alone as I travel alone so this reaction isn’t really new to me). She also asked if I knew how to eat the bone marrow when putting the plate down which could be something they do for everyone, who knows. That said, the other person who was alternating in bringing my food, an absolutely towering figure in the literal sense, was really very nice.
Now, what I was there for: The food
The bone marrow: it’s a classic. I got it essentially due to the peer pressure of being at St John and knowing what Henderson has done with this dish and for fine dining. With that, it’s fine. The novelty isn’t really there and I’ve had better bone marrow and dozens of other places. Also my portion was shockingly small, the left bone itself was mostly bone (crazy right?) - and I would have much rather preferred a canoe cut. Dining alone? Don’t bother filling up on this and get something else more special.
The pickled mackerel: delicious. The salad/veggies were bright and complex, the portion of mackerel for a starter was extremely generous. Textures absolutely a plenty and I have no complaints.
The John Dory: a surprise to be sure, but a welcome one. Phenomenally well cooked. Slid off the bone(s) if you will. The menu only claims red wine leaks but as you can tell from the picture there was another deep red vegetable which complimented the fish extremely well. Paired with their great house mayonnaise it was easily one of the better fish meals I’ve had in recent memory. Paired extremely well with one of the St John white’s.
The manhattan: great. The second went down even better than the first.
The welsh rarebit: a disappointment. I didn’t take a picture before digging in but you can tell the edge was absolutely burnt, not only in look but it was spectacularly hard to cut through all the edges. The centre bits were tasty however, Guinness-y, mustard-y, nice warm cheese.
The hazelnut ice cream: delicious. At this point the massive caloric intake was getting to me but I have a second stomach only for sweets. This ice cream did not disappoint. I would buy pints of this if I could. There was roasted hazelnuts and candied hazelnuts and the ice cream was hazelnut flavoured and there was even caramelized hazelnuts and it was all terrific.
Finally: the madeleines. These are a classic, I’ve had them before but never warm and fresh and they were to die for. I paired one with the last bit of my caramelized hazelnut ice cream for one of THE BEST sweet bites I’ve ever had. Now at this point I was VIOLENTLY full. I mean, genuinely thought I was going to be sick so I only managed two madeleines and brought the rest home, I gave one to a drunk guy on the tube who was good conversation and consumed the rest the next days - they are delicious even a day or two later, cold of slightly warmed up.
All in all, some hits, some misses and it was all extremely reasonably priced. Would definitely return to try whatever they have on the menu that day and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience or this more unorthodox approach to fine dining. I ordered so much as I’ve gotten a bit used to tweezed micro-greens not quite filling me up, but was not the case here. Come with an appetite.