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The dinner at Eika, Taipei has been concluded. First thing first, I would like to talk about the best aspect of the establishment, which is the ambience. Out of 5 places that I have been to in Taiwan that hold 2 stars and above, this is the place that screams high class the most. Designated waiting area with a frame of calligraphy and a wooden table designed in rather avant-garde fashion, the hallway with the dim light and the actual main dining area too. It is really pleasing to look at and feels like that you could bring someone here to impress them. Second thing that I would like to bring up is the service. It was hospitable, clean and attentive, basically something that I would not complain anything about it. Some of the staff members struggled a bit on the English explanation of the menu items, but that did not bother me at all. Considering the fact that there are places with the wait staffs that act like their guests are honored to be presented with their glorious existence, I would much rather be served by the staffs from Eika, even if they were not able to speak any kind of languages that I know. And lastly, the foods. Unfortunately, this is the part that let me down, even though quite a little bit, but certainly. First of all, the execution was really great. For instance, their Sashimi portion contains pieces of sea bass with torched skin. They aged the fish properly and applied the heat on the skin so precise to the point where it brings out the optimal amount the fat contents underneath the skin while maintaining the subtle chewiness of the raw fish, basically the best one I have ever tasted among the same items. Those kind of proper use of Japanese cooking technic could be witnessed from beginning to end. But I felt like, the whole course lacked a bit of ‘wow factor.’ There was nothing that I would have never expected or anticipated from the Japanese cuisine context. There was one item that got so close on that remark which was one of the appetizers. They froze the monk fish liver and shaved it thinly just like the typical chocolate topping on the cake on top of creme brulee’d fig. The closest thing that I experienced was the foie gras ice cream wrapped with the Peking Duck that I had at Tomono, Osaka. Frozen fatty livers actually go extremely well with the sweet fruits and its form being shaved added the extra layer on the texture and the taste itself too. I would like them to show this kind of side throughout the whole course, but unfortunately, it was not the case. I guess it is my personal preference to demand a bit of twist on the genre, so, I think the other person would give a totally different opinion about the courses.
The duration of the meal was approximately 3 hours, with 15 courses including the rice portion and 2 dessert items. Here are the dishes that have been served.
1.Sweet corn, wrapped with the fish roe and deep fried lightly. One bite dish.
2.Uni from Hokkaido wrapping around the ripe persimmon, on top of tofu skin tart. Also a one bite dish
3.Two pieces of sushi. One on the right, lobster and on the left, a sardine. Wrapped with the bamboo shoot.
4.Frozen and then shaved monk fish liver -Ankimo- on top of the fig, slightly torched on surface to bring out the caramelized surface. One of my favorites of the evening.
5.Sui mono, Shiro Amadai soup with the fish meat and black sesame tofu and the broth made out of the fish born.
6.First Sashimi portion, one of the right, Spanish mackerel pickled lightly and on the right, sea bass with torched skin -Tataki’ed-. Also one of my favorites, especially the sea bass. The sauce to be couple with the fishes was made out of aged tomatoes and yuzu, but the taste of tomatoes was quite subtle.
7.Second Sashimi portion, a mackerel, also applied with Tataki method. The sauce here is made out of white miso, vinegar and some chilli. Chilli’s spiciness was a nice kick to the whole thing and I was satisfied with the dish for the exact same reason with the dish number 6.
8.Taro imo, served with squid and kaluga caviar on top. Basically the weakest link of the evening.
9.Grape shrimp and pieces of pineapple served with the 2 different kinds of sauce. One is based on Japanese egg yolk and the other is Jus made out of beef and Japanese soy sauce. Might have been the weakest link, bu the perfect medium rare feels to the shrimp saved the dish, IMHO.
10.Abalone, lotus root and powdered ingredients that I missed the explanation. Beef bone and some kind of a fish roe, I think? Great texture on the abalone’s side, but the rest is bit pale.
11.Tempura, eel, Korean Perilla leaves and chili. Incredibly, done in perfect text book like fashion. Quite typical, but tasted really good. One of my favorites too.
12.Wood fire pigeon. This is my second time having pigeon as a main and this was far better than the first time. The first time was from the 2 star establishment in NYC that I am not going to name, but that was practically swimming in sauce almost impossible for me to appreciate the bird itself. But this one, this one was actually bringing out the ingredient marvelously. Another good one.
13.Rice portion,congee made out of flying fish and Taiwanese avocado.
14.The first dessert, water melon, fashion fruits and the basil sorbet. Served with the sauce made out of cinnamon.
15.The second dessert, pear, salted caramel and homemade milk ice cream