u/EV-CPO

Hi all,

I have an incredibly simple AV system. I posted what I was looking for a few days ago here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/StereoAdvice/comments/1x1iu2o/need_a_replacement_dac_or_receiver/

I just want to be able to use the AppleTV remote -- by itself -- to control volume/mute for any kind amp/receiver/streamer/dac where the ONLY input is the optical/toslink audio from my TV (fed from the AppleTV via HDMI). I also want to be able to access Apple Music and my own library on my NAS. That's it. And I just want to use the AppleTV remote to do it all. I don't think that's too much to ask?

So I bought the Wiim Ultra based on my thread above and it works great -- ALMOST. The HDMI CEC works for volume but not mute. I can watch the AppleTV and control the volume with HDMI CEC and it works. But not for "mute". Appears to be a known bug.

I also bought the Eversolo A6. And I'm a tech guy and I can't get this working. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, but it appears that I am unable to have the audio optical input from the TOSLINK (the TV audio from the AppleTV) **AND** the HDMI CEC active to control the volume/mute at the same time.

When selecting the input, I can select Optical and get the TV audio, but the AppleTV remote doesn't work at all. I can set the input to HDMI CEC and the remote works for volume/mute, but oddly, I can't have any other source as input?

How can I have optical input for audio and HDMI CEC For volume/mute?

thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/wle3qavokpuh1.png?width=1466&format=png&auto=webp&s=5e54eb8ed3acdca44909166beb3987d74600f9d2

Not sure what to do here. Sold a house and closed the end of Q2. Very easy transaction, nothing out of the ordinary.

On the closing sheet we had a refund of about $400 for pre-paid real estate taxes to the town for the current quarter (Q2). All other taxes were paid and up to date. At closing, the buyers pre-paid about $2501.23 in property taxes for Q3, although the actual taxes owed for Q3 is $2,581.19. (numbers have been changed)

About 3 months after closing, we get a check from the title company for $2,581.19. The exact amount of the taxes for the quarter we did not own the house (Q3).

I can assume they meant to send the pre-paid taxes to the township and not the seller? But that's a pretty big error to make. The check even says "Q3 propery tax refund". We didn't own the house in Q3. And when I go to the township tax assessor site, it shows Q3 taxes as paid ($2,581.19).

I got the check a few weeks ago waiting for them to realize their error and ask for the check back, but I haven't heard from them yet. I have not deposited it yet.

Would you:

1. Deposit it and not look back ("Bank error in your favor")

2. Inform them of their error

3. Keep waiting

I'll have five of these boards which I want to stack vertically. Will this arrangement work? The other big connector is a DB-25. I found longer male headers for the bottom side to make sure they seat properly in the female headers because of the height of the DB-25. And yes, I have vias connecting all the pins on both sides.

I'm open to any other methods or ways to transmit these signals across 5 similar boards. I tried using the Eurorack 10-pin cables and headers, but that was a big mess. ;)

thanks.

https://preview.redd.it/epof59ufvroh1.png?width=872&format=png&auto=webp&s=5629a1b11496a26fd8e69a8f7f527de0198b1b0e

https://preview.redd.it/ubuxi95ovroh1.png?width=704&format=png&auto=webp&s=cef03adc75e35c9405cd9e4b2cc300eb02b24dc4

https://preview.redd.it/7eo2kz0qvroh1.png?width=956&format=png&auto=webp&s=859506fe7b1e4b574d4b791cb3d64e5c943eb82b

https://preview.redd.it/6rs8v1b0wroh1.png?width=844&format=png&auto=webp&s=f4f1e2d416bd47dcc741f5b0734d91845a01cf92

Ok, I've now bought and tossed FOUR of these "waterproof" spa thermometers.

Each one, within two months developed condensation inside and killed the electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR63MGVG (bought this one twice!)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRP5KDJ6

I really had high hopes for this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXDWQB9F?th=1 I even tossed in two desiccant packs to fight the moisture accumulation. Didn't help.

Anyway, I saw an ad for a pool light fixture that filled the entire inside cavity with a resin or polyurethane or potting compound to completely fill and seal up the insides while still working electronically.

So I'm thinking, why aren't these temp sensor companies doing the same thing? Their products keep failing (insert: yes, it's capitalism/planned obsolescence). But not after just two month for FOUR different units. And I am making sure I follow the directions and close the lids proper tightness.

So my question is, can I buy a fifth unit and fill it up with some resin or potting compound like these:

https://www.amazon.com/WANJAO-Electronic-Conductive-Insulation-Waterproof/dp/B0FBWW6Y6D

https://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Potting-Compounds-Electronics-Encapsulating/dp/B0DFWWN9S1?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Model-Pro-White-32-Polyurethane-Casting/dp/B07RM4VB8C?crid=1WN921XAQ3U0C&

Or can someone recommend a unit that doesn't leak?

thanks

edit! I just realized that I won't be able to replace the batteries. I'll rig up some rechargeables and a waterproof or wireless charging port before filling with resin.

I'm tempted to set this up with DHL, since JLCPCB is gouging us on the shipping charges.

The last PCBA shipment I had was charged $87.53 for DHL express shipping (the standard first option). They said the shipment was 3kgs (that's 6.6 pounds)! It had 20 50mmx50mm PCBAs. When it got here, the box weighed 0.8kg (1.75 pounds)!

I complained to JLCPCB and they said they would review and adjust it, but never did.

So if you select to use your own DHL account, are the tariffs, customs clearance, taxes and duties come out to be about the same if JLC shipped it direct and billed me?

Is UPS or FedEx better in this respect? I have been screwed before importing things and getting hit with huge agent and other fees.

I'm sitting on a PCBA order for 5 different boards and the shipping is estimated to be about $100. No way it costs that much just for shipping.

thanks.

I'm trying to duplicate the same DAC circuit 4 times. I have the first one placed and fully routed. I created a new group "DAC1". I then went to duplicate the group for the second DAC circuit. I followed the instructions, yet every time it just says "No exact matching".

I took the first circuit schematic, copy/pasted it to a new schematic. I changed all the net names for the second circuit. I then selected all 39 components (same count as the DAC1 group) and selected "Reuse Layout Route" but it just returns "no exact matching" with no warnings or errors in the log. No help whatsoever is not matching. Both groups have the same number of components as well as the exact same components, just freshly copied on the schematic side.

I can also look in the object inspector and see the source group with 39 components, same as the target collection.

I also tried doing the same thing for just 7 components (one IC and 4 resistors, 2 caps), and still the same error message.

help!

My wife and I are flying on AA43 due to land at JFK at 2:30. With the weather forecast it looks unlikely we’ll land there or even take off from here. I’m thinking of getting the first flight to LHR and the to JFK landing around 9pm. Does that have a better chance of avoiding the storms and arriving normally? I’m open to any other suggestions. If it matters we are booked and checked in in BC.
Thanks

I flew United out of EWR and returned back through MCO this week, and in both cases for the Precheck line, there were no more bins. Leave everything in the bags and place on the conveyer. It was kind of surprising, but in a good way. I don't fly every week, is this a new change?

So last night I was tired and about to go to bed when I got this confirmation email from AA (see image)

At first I obviously thought it was a phishing email, although I had just flown AA twice this past weekend on an entirely different route. My name was not on the email, but the links are all direct aa.com links and not scam redirections. It's a real flight scheduled to depart this evening.

So I then thought that someone hacked into my account and booked a flight -- so I log in and no new booked flights (I have two other trips booked which were there). All my miles are intact and there's no activity on my AAdvantage account. I check all my credit cards and there are no AA charges there. I tried to check-in using my name and birthday but that failed, and yes, that was on the aa.com website after I logged in and not a spoofed website/URL.

So the only thing I can fathom what happened here was a simple AA server-side glitch that sent this confirmation to the wrong email address, or someone used my email address to book a flight, but not logged into my AA account with the same email address. I did not receive any other emails regarding this itinerary.

What's funny is google automatically added the flight to my calendar, so I woke up this morning with an alert that I'm flying to PDX later today. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Strange!

https://preview.redd.it/zxbx4e3ljm7h1.png?width=1674&format=png&auto=webp&s=6af0490dab6212aa72e9ca64dbd7fb72c445364d

Not only does she have a wonderful and fun disposition, but is just overall awesome.

During boarding the GA repeatedly announced that there’s VERY limited overhead space and groups higher than 5 will likely need to check bags. This is a CRJ LGA-BUF so yeah overhead space is at a premium. But during boarding on the plane (I’m in FC) Anna continuously was checking the overhead space and telling the GA that there was plenty more space available. Not just once but all of boarding !! So it DOES happen! She said that she thought she could fit 6 more bags on board!

I hate flying these CRJs but she’s making it bearable while there’s a huge weather ground stop at LGA. Our pilot didn’t sound too optimistic about getting out anytime soon, something about a low altitude route.

Whatever happens Anna is here to make it better. I wish all FA ls were like her. Be more like Anna.

Hello all. I originally posted this to the RPi subreddit but didn't get any response. If this is not appropriate for here, please let me know and I'll delete it.

I'm working on a project that has two standard-size hats stacked on an RPi4. I'm having them made and assembled at a well-known PCBA fabhouse. So far for my prototypes, I've soldered on the female 2x20 headers to the bottoms of both the boards (I know you can specify fabhouse to do this, but I haven't yet).

So, the problem I'm having is I solder the lower board headers to the PCB, and I'm super careful to use as little solder as possible, so the second hat can stack on top of it. But it doesn't work -- the through-hole pins on top of the female headers (that pass through the lower board and are soldered) just aren't long enough to make full robust contact with the secondary hat female headers. This is about good as I can get -- which is totally janky:

https://preview.redd.it/t8jg030uzjzg1.png?width=1520&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ef1faaa8fbeb0fa0edb4c8a2e386e0fadbe296e

I've tried the longer "stacking" headers, but the male pins are just way too long and the secondary hat won't seat fully (see photos) even if I cut the longer pins short, the solder still wicks up and gets in the way.

What I'd like is to use what some of these professionally made boards have -- which is SMT for both the female headers on the bottom, and the set of male headers pins on the top, also SMT. See the photo below of a commercial GPIO expansion board -- this is what I need!

https://preview.redd.it/h8w4ot9pzjzg1.png?width=887&format=png&auto=webp&s=836e601b060d6755416fc823a319027486ba878e

So will this work (See below)? I would PCBA the male TH pins on the top layer, and manually SMT/hot air solder the bottom female pins at home. I want to avoid getting into the "Standard" double sided PCBA, I'd like to stay on single-sided "Economy" PCBA.

On Top: C5224014 Standard male THT header pins

On Bottom: C5423443 -- female SMT header -- this part has dual-entry holes which looks like it allows for the lower pins to slot into - but possibly not an electrical connection, which is fine, both parts are routed to each other.

The last photo below shows how the plated through holes for the top layer male pins line up perfectly with the copper pads for the female header on the bottom side (not assembled at the fabhouse).

Is this good, or is there a better way?

thanks.

https://preview.redd.it/f9qyruemclzg1.png?width=1336&format=png&auto=webp&s=b77acd8cfb7d4b14372d4a82073c62c0592a1787

https://preview.redd.it/pn7l36jdclzg1.png?width=1646&format=png&auto=webp&s=68329e7fa7b3f3cda18388b660d85af5e7263946

https://preview.redd.it/jw6dsyyznrzg1.png?width=1343&format=png&auto=webp&s=676adcb8e128ca06ea5a9208457ece5e7a131361