u/EntertainmentSea4048

Slow refrigerant leak out of high pressure line.

Slow refrigerant leak out of high pressure line.

EDIT: Thank you everyone, I appreciate your input. I’ll be having another company out to give their opinion.

2 ton system, found the low pressure line frozen and evaporator likely too. Had a tech inspect and found a leak around this fitting, which he claimed looked like “plumbing parts.”

Quoted $3,300 to replace the valve, repair the line with a proper fitting, evac and fill refrigerant, replace capacitor (in his words “it was low”) and replace the pvc condensate drain from the plenum. Located in the Columbus Ohio area. Does this sound reasonable?

I DIY as much as possible, but obviously do not have the equipment to handle the refrigerant, which is $1,200. PVC drain would be easy, and I’ve worked with low-voltage fire alarm systems professionally, so replacing the capacitor is not entirely out of my scope. I know they can be dangerous, and I’d have to know what to do before disassembly.

Same company quoted $7,000 for an appropriate 2-ton system.

Selling the home. Looking for the best way to make a cost-effective repair without screwing over our buyers.

u/EntertainmentSea4048 — 7 days ago
▲ 3 r/towing

I’m using my 2005 Yukon XL 1500 to tow my 1969 Land Rover 88 (about 3000lbs) 700mi using the U-Haul auto transport. Should be 5300lbs or so in total. Has a new class V hitch, fluids/maintenance are always done on time and topped up. New brakes all around. 4.10 rear RWD with a factory transmission cooler. New tires going on this Monday.

Has an Arnott suspension conversion which removes the old blown shocks that have helper bags, worried how this would affect squat and towing dynamics

Has 200,000 mi. I figure if I use tow/haul and keep it 65-70mph I should be okay and not grenade the old 4L60E.

Any tips to prepare the vehicle, and tips for driving? Might go through some mountainous roads in PA on the way to the east coast.

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u/EntertainmentSea4048 — 26 days ago