Hard to see in this photo, but the axle on this Uhaul snapped right on the out side of the leaf suspension. This is in the Midwest. The road is as smooth as can be. What are your thoughts on why an axle would snap like this? My guess is road salt deteriorated it severely over many years, then it just happened that road bumps during towing in the summer were the last straw.
Went from a Silverado 1500 to a 2500. So now I have a 2/12 inch. I’m using a reducer right now but I don’t like that.
What are the top 3 hitches I can get?
Hi, can someone please help with my confusion regarding tow & hitch assembly on 2025 Tesla model Y(not juniper)?
I have purchased attached item for MY but it looks like there are other listing which has heat sink like attachment additionally on tow bar. My question is, what’s this additional part and do I need it? I do wish to use tow trailer feature comes with installation.
Here we have a 1972 South Coast 22' Sailboat. My understanding is that the tongue weight should be 10-15% of the total weight of the loaded trailer. As of now, it is more like 5%. I have the ability to move the trailer axle back to increase the tongue weight, but the question is: how much do I need to move it? Obviously this will be something of a guessing game but hoping that this community can help to make an educated guess at least. (also going to crosspost to r/theydidthemath and see what they have to say on the subject)
Information which may or may not be helpful:
- Total weight of boat and trailer is 2300lb on the nose. I verified this by weighing my truck with trailer at a truck stop CAT scale, then reweighing just the truck and subtracting the difference.
- Tongue weight is 123lb. Measured using a regular bathroom scale with the trailer level.
- I have not weighed the boat or trailer by itself, but the manufacturer records state that it has a displacement of 1800lb, which means the trailer is 500lb.
- There is about 600lb of weight between the rudder and keel pretty close the center of the axle currently. approximate locations are drawn on the image as well as current axle distance to ball hitch and back of the boat. I would guess that the weight distribution for the remaining ~1200lb is relatively consistent throughout the rest of the hull. It does need to float level, after all.
- The mast on top is not very heavy. Maybe 30-40lb total.
- I typically do not put any additional cargo in it while towing.
- There are holes along the frame which i can use to move the axle quite far in either direction. they are spaced 3.5" apart, so I can move it in any increment of 3.5"
What say you, r/towing???
Edit: while I can move the axle somewhat easily, it will require jacking the whole trailer up and unbolting it in several places. It doesn't slide or anything like that so I'm trying to not have to do it multiple times.
We plan on adding a ball hitch to tow a boat (dry weight roughly 3000lbs). It’s a 1997 gmc suburban low mileage, essentially elderly owned driven only once a year but maintained regularly. Looking at the rust on the hitch, would this be something we need to replace before towing a boat?
First time truck owner here
I have gotten myself in a little bit of a predicament. I live in Ottawa, got a great deal on a KX040-4 with a 26 foot trailer included, only caveat is that it’s in Edmonton. Originally planned to do a one way rental with a 1 ton and be done with it but have come to figure out thats not possible. So I’ve been looking for a cheap (preferably less than 20k) 1 ton to purchase in Edmonton, haul it back and then sell the 1 ton for as close to a break even as I can get.
My issue now is that basically every 1 ton in Edmonton seems to be deleted which im learning is a whole legal issue where I could get fined and have insurance problems.
Was hoping for suggestions on what I should do with this whole scenario ive gotten myself into?
Thank you in advance!
Edit: I do have my class A restricted license now
Loading up my car and noticed some small fraying on the cable
My car was towed like this. I did not stay and wait for the driver or meet the car at the mechanic’s shop. When I received my car back from the mechanic shop, my steering wheel was damaged. I believe the damaged was caused by strapping the steering wheel. The tow company states they did not strap it. Does this damage look to be caused by strapping the steering wheel. There was no damage to the steering wheel prior to this tow. The damage is only on the bottom half of the wheel and only to the cloth material.
I have a flatbed trailer with a 10K capacity and two axes and electric brakes. I have loaded a 5K SUV on it and tied down each wheel. The trailer is ~2,500 pounds. Tongue weight is around 750 pounds.
I am pulling with a motorhome on an F550 chassis with 12k towing capacity and 1,200 tongue capacity.
Why is the right rear tire on the trailer wearing on the out side edge? The other three tires are just fine.
I guess this is outside of Boston but I went to Porter Square ti Urgent care because of a chest pain. I parked in the lot there which did say 2 hour parking but I thought I’d be in and out. When they did the EKG there they said there was something they weren’t sure of and were sending me in an ambulance to Mt auburn because they didn’t have all the things there to do a proper assessment. They said it was liability issue that they send me via ambulance. I went to mt auburn they ran all these tests and X-rays and cancelled out anything worrisome. I then was taken back to porter square and my car was gone. It had been 2 hours and 45 minutes but my car was towed. The tow company said to bring $173 cash and if I wanted to fight it I had to take it up with people at Porter Square. I would never have left my car there over 2 hours but these were emergency circumstances and I have proof of that too, an ambulance literally came into the square to take me.
Is there any point in fighting this? Who would I reach out to and what would I say? I have all the receipts and evidence of everything as well.
Thank you
Buddy wanted the bed and tow hoist. I felt like It needed the old school sling to finish it off.
Yeah yeah, I know shoulda gotz an F250 at least ( but "Mikey likely "this truck). Towing a large "teardrop" 2330 lbs dry, 4200 GVW- has a 43 gal fresh water tank over the axle ( wet bath in rear, brother. Take girlfriend along- clean sex, eh). Tows ok but little more bouncy than I like.
I’m planning to buy a 2026 Toyota RAV4 Woodland next week. One of the main reasons I’m choosing the Woodland is its 3,500 lb towing capacity and factory 2-inch hitch.
I live in Texas and work in the oil and gas industry in Louisiana, so I move between job locations occasionally. I really don’t want a full-size truck because the RAV4 will be my daily driver, I drive a lot of miles, and fuel economy matters to me.
The only travel trailer I’m really interested in is a Forest River Geo Pro. The model I’m looking at has a dry weight of roughly 3,500 lbs, so it would basically be right at the Woodland’s advertised towing limit. The Geo Pro also has its own trailer brakes.
I understand that dry weight and actual weight are not necessarily the same. My plan would be to tow it completely empty: no water, personal belongings, food, etc. I would move my belongings separately and verify the trailer’s actual weight on a scale.
My thinking is that if Toyota officially rates the Woodland for 3,500 lbs, the actual engineering/failure threshold is probably somewhat higher than exactly 3,500 lbs. I assume manufacturers build in some safety margin rather than setting the advertised limit exactly at the mechanical failure point. Obviously, I have no idea what that engineering margin actually is, and I’m NOT planning to rely on it or intentionally exceed the 3,500 lb rating. I’m just thinking that operating at 3,400–3,500 lbs shouldn’t mean the vehicle is literally at its mechanical breaking point. Please correct me if my thinking is wrong.
I also would NOT be towing it every weekend. It would stay parked near my job site, and I would probably move it to another city once every 3–4 months when my work location changes. For example, Texas to New Orleans or between different job sites in Louisiana. Hotshot transport can cost around $4/mile, so paying someone every time gets expensive.
When towing, I’m fine driving 50–60 mph and taking my time. I’d use the trailer brakes/brake controller, proper sway control if recommended, and make sure tongue weight and axle/payload limits are within spec.
For people with actual towing experience, especially with a RAV4 Adventure/TRD/Woodland:
Would you be comfortable occasionally towing a trailer that actually weighs around 3,400–3,500 lbs with a RAV4 rated for 3,500 lbs?
Anything specific you would recommend for stability, braking, or setup?
And does anyone know of any legal/DOT issues in Texas or Louisiana if the actual measured trailer weight is within the RAV4’s 3,500 lb rating?
I know a truck would give me a much bigger safety margin. I’m specifically trying to figure out whether this setup is reasonable for very occasional, completely empty moves rather than regular RV towing.
Thanks for any advice, especially from anyone who has actually towed near the RAV4’s rated limit.
I’m still learning so pardon my inexperience
Bad seal right? I don’t really see as much grease on the back of the rim.
Am I needing new bearings and new seals? It’s odd. It occurred on both left and right tires at the same time sometime after I try to add some grease
Not sure if I blew the seals by adding too much grease via the port or if I just over greased it and the seals are fine?
Thanks
I am limited to like 1000lbs total on towing capacity. I plan on hauling washers and small lawn equipment maybe some furniture.
Are these a decent trailer?
Does anyone tow a race car? I’m looking to do an over the tire strap that doesn’t pull the tire away from the car. Go directly up and over the tread of the tire. I have a wooden deck trailer. I’ve seen some recessed hooks online, has anyone used these for that purpose. Car is around 3200#. Trying to put pull down the suspension in transit and not put any strain sideways on the suspension. Thanks in advance.
Location: California
I was hauling a load of brass shell casings, aluminum and copper to a salvage yard. I was pulled over by a BLM ranger. I was detained in jail for 3 days. I got out, property returned but no wallet or cell phone. After about 3 weeks finally found them. Instead of the law enforcement that arrested me having them the towing company had them and handed them to me through a locked gate in a sealed bag and phone was broken.
There was a hold put on the truck and I was told the tow was $1660 and $190 a day. I satisfied the hold stipulations and it was released and the hold paperwork said it was stored not impounded. Tow company refused to give me an itemized bill and access to my property. When I asked about my property I was told I already got all I was getting, which was phone and wallet.
The truck was pulling a trailer that was not mine. My understanding is to tow them you would have to separate them and tow individually. When I finally got to see my truck it was still connected to the trailer the exact way I had connected it. If towed separate why reconnect them at the yard?
Flash forward 4 months later. Still no access to my property, still no lien on the title and still no itemized bill in writing and the price kept changing. At one point they said I just had to pay the $1660 for the tow and I offered $900 just for the truck and my property since the trailer wasn't mine and they refused to separate them. The law enforcement that had it towed are offering no help.
I had a friend call a couple of weeks ago and they told her that all my property was gone and they were going to scap the truck. Called DMV again and still no lien and still no paperwork from the tow company. I have sent 2 requests by mail for the paperwork also and no reply. Bluebook value on the truck is $16,500 and total value of my property on it is close to that. I live outside and all my tools and gear were on the truck also. I am from Michigan and now my license and tags have expired on my b-day in July and haven't been able to renew them. I am going to local law enforcement and see if they will help me. Any suggestions on what to do here would be appreciated.
I had a 1999 dodge ram 1500, it was my first vehicle. Long story short, I parked it in a pay by the hour parking lot patrolled by a contracted company(was a few years ago) I’m from Vancouver BC, I left it in the lot and took the keys with me while I was working two hours away sleeping at a friend’s so I was closer to work, anyway I got 6 tickets, huge sticker over the windshield and two boots. I’m just curious of what would have happened to it? Like I said it was my first vehicle, had a ridiculous amount of unforgettable nights in it all across British Columbia. Has it been shipped to china and made into an Amazon warehouse robot at this point?
Prepping for a trip with my Discovery 2, the vehicle is in great condition and the engine has had a lot of maintenance done in the past 12months. Trailer is 1,300lbs with about 1,300lbs inside. Even for this old girl, the weight should be easily within its range. We’ve pulled it around at weight for 100 miles around town in preparation, and everything is running smoothly.
Where I’m struggling is my tongue weight and the height difference between the discovery’s hitch and the trailer. When loaded, the trailer is heavily compressing the rear suspension. When I lower the hitch height using my variable height hitch, it improves slightly, but I can’t go so low without the hitch hitting the pavement on small bumps and the chains dragging.
Will weight redistribution in the trailer fix this problem? Is this a sign my tongue weight is too strong? Even if it improves but is still sagging, can I safely do my trip with the suspension looking like this? Any input appreciated!
