r/towing

I just picked up a 2016 Texas Bragg 16+2 car hauler. New deck and new tires and seemed good when I looked at it. Didn't get much more than 100 miles before my rear axle's passenger hub got hot. Upon further review, it seems at the very least my brake is dragging/locked up (pretty rusty down there). I was able to adjust the driver side star adjuster and that seemed to let go of the driver wheel but the passenger wheel didn't seem to budge and got hot again after a quick 5 mile test. Here's my question, does it pay to go through all the troubleshooting for bearings, drum, shoe, etc. or should I just replace the whole assembly and be done with it? Looks like I can get a pair for ~$200.

I towed my trailer and another very aerodynamic one on the exact same route and compared how many mi/kWh I got with each.

Got this same hitch last black friday from menards under the Towing Master brand name:

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/towing-cargo-management/trailer-hitches-balls/uriah-reg-steel-tow-class-iii-7-500-lb-ball-mount-trailer-hitch/ut623510/p-1519025315289-c-1527167451361.htm

Finally got it outa the box for an upcomming uhaul auto transport trailer rental. Seems like its got alot of slop between the 2 height adjustment pins. I dont know if thats just how these are? Its rated 1000lb tounge and 7500 pull. All the pins are 5/8" and they fit nice in the chrome part but sloppy in the black C chanel holes like they are too big... i can take a video tommorow but id guess the top of the ball can rock forward and back at least an inch so id imagine every heavier brake its gonna slam forward and acceleration is gonna clank backward hammering the holes...

Should i get a standard 2" drop with the 2" ball and not risk all the slop? Most of em are only rated 750 tounge and 5000 pull - id wager between car and trailer its gonna be 3500 lbs? I have a 4" drop one and with the empty trailer the trailer sits level so throwin a 2000 lb car on it is gonna make it sag more hence 2" drop would be better i think?

Hi,

I have a 2025 XLT F150. 1852 payload per yellow door jam sticker. The vin lookup says max it can tow is 10,400 with a max tongue weight of 1,040. However, the trailer hitch says it can tow 11,600 with max tongue weight 1,160 (with weight distribution hitch).

FYI
It has trailer sway control and class IV hitch,
But not a tow package. 3.5 ecoboost

My questions are:
1). With a proper weight distribution hitch, is tongue weight 1,160 or 1,040? The VIN lookup doesn’t mention weight distribution hitch which transfers weight to axels and is required for over 5,000 pounds, so do I assume the higher amount?

2). Do I subtract the weight of the weight distribution hitch from payload or from tongue weight as part of trailer weight?

I’m looking at travel trailers with around 26’ boxes and total length 30-31’ with max weights of 7,500-7,695. Dry weights are less and don’t plan on maxing out, but want to be cautious. Family weight with 3 growing kids assume 650 pounds in a few years (less now, but growing)

Current favorite choice:
https://www.granddesignrv.com/travel-trailers/transcend-xplor/26bhx

Am I safe to tow? With tongue weight?
Thanks in advance!

I was recently gifted a boat and trailer from a friend. The problem is that he never registered the trailer, and he doesn’t have any proof of ownership from the person he bought it from. He ended up starting a family, never really used the boat, and never got around to registering the trailer.

I went to MPI to try and register it, but they told me I need proof of ownership from my friend. When I asked him about it, he said he was never given any paperwork when he bought the trailer, so he has nothing to give me.

Has anyone dealt with a situation like this before? Is there another way to get the trailer registered, or am I stuck without the previous ownership documents?

Hello, I am going to need to jump around from place to place for about 4 months for school/work. I have to pay for all my housing so was considering a small camper/rv trailer. I have a ‘22 outback wilderness, what can I safely tow and what tips can you share? Thank you everyone!

Okay, so I have this Craftsman Dump Trailer: Model 610243551.
I want to connect this to my ATV for yard work, which has a 2" receiver. I am having no luck finding an adapter, or some method to connect this up. Can anyone help?

Looking online I am getting a lot of mixed information on the actual weight I can tow in a 5th wheel. Going to Rams site it is showing a 2500 lb payload and 20k towing capacity. Planning on using the Anderson light weight hitch that is 37 lbs as I have read good reviews and to keep the weight down. I have also seen people saying that the GAWR or GVWR is more important. Can anyone post a bunk house model 5th wheel that they are towing with the 2500 so I can clear my head on what I can look at. General information on the model would be great so I can narrow it down too. Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone!

I posted a few days ago about a challenge I’ve been running into with our new Toyota 4Runner and I’ve received some helpful information since then. Our 2026 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off-Road states that it has an 895lb payload capacity (on the actual sticker on the door). On the sticker next to it, it says the GVWR is 6,240. Tow capacity is 6,000lbs.

I went into a CAT scale yesterday and the unloaded vehicle with a full tank of gas was at 4,840. Everywhere I’ve read and everyone I talk to states that payload is simply GVWR-Curb weight, meaning this 4Runner SHOULD have a payload of 1,400.

We are looking at RV’s that we can tow with this vehicle, and I need to know what payload to operate off of so I can stick within my tongue weight options. My plan is to stay under a loaded tongue weight (not dry) of 600lbs and get a camper that has a GVWR between 4,500 and 6,000lbs, or 3,500 - 4,200 dry. I refuse to go over 4,800lbs loaded, and a 600lb tongue would put us right at around 1,050- 1,100 payload (that’s with two people, drawers installed, a roof rack, and our cat).

If I stick below 4,800lbs loaded, below 600lbs tongue, and below 1,100 payload (seemingly 75% of the true payload capacity), will I be good? Or am I better off sticking under 895lbs payload listed on the door no matter what?

The 6th Gen 4Runners also have a hybrid model that has heavy EV batteries, but the same payload and GVWR, which makes me think they slapped that same sticker across the board on all models.

We will be living in the RV full time, so we’re trying to get the largest one we can tow without going over 75-80% of our capacities all around.

Thank you!

I have a s10 project truck in my garage right now that I plan on turning into a street strip machine, but It would behoove of me to get a truck to tow it with since certain tracks are a decent ways away. What do y'all recommend for a setup?