I’d like to share my less popular experience from this part of Palawan. First, let me clarify: my wife and I are adventurers. We love camping, and accommodation is never an issue for us as long as it meets basic hygiene standards and the surrounding nature is beautiful.

After seeing stunning photos of paradise-like islands, we decided to take this tour. We found it a bit strange that the guides were mostly active only on Instagram and that there were very few reviews online. We also couldn’t find any clear information about what the camps actually looked like, even though the guides posted some rather inaccurate photos on their profiles.

We booked a 4-day, 3-night tour through Balabac Girl. So far, it has been the most expensive tour we’ve taken in Palawan (€250 / $290), and we’ve done several camping-style tours around the island. We traveled all over Palawan by car (covering around 2,000 km), spending several days in each region. We managed to see everything, the way local people live and the challenges they face.

However, I can honestly say that we returned from Balabac deeply shaken, and we could hardly wait to leave for the next destination.

The tour is split between two camps:

• 1st and 3rd night – Canibungan
• 2nd night – Onuk
• Plus a number of island-hopping stops along the way.

Canibungan Camp

This was by far the worst part of our trip. It is essentially an island slum, not a proper campsite. The tents are set up right next to a local settlement, and there is absolutely no camping infrastructure. You literally share everything with the residents.

The entire area is neglected and full of trash. People sleep in old tents that are no longer suitable for tourists. The air smells of diesel and urine, and the ground is covered with broken glass and ash. There are garbage-burning pits every few meters, and sewage is discharged directly into the sea, making swimming unsafe.

The island is home to severely neglected dogs and cats ( almost like living zombies ) as well as some of the local children. Honestly, this completely ruined the trip for us. Wealthy Western tourists don't seem to pay much attention to these conditions, nor do affluent Filipino tourists. As long as there is food, alcohol, and a camera for taking pictures, they consider the experience excellent.

If you complain about any of this, people will tell you that it's normal and that the important thing is to support the locals ( by buying alcohol and other products from them ). In reality, nobody ( including tour guides ) support the local community in any meaningful way. Not a single dollar from these expensive tours appears to have been invested in improving conditions for either tourists or residents on this island.

The local workers employed at the camp are severely underpaid, earning less than $5 per day, while others profit from their labor. The animals are especially heartbreaking. If a dog or cat develops internal parasites, it is essentially condemned to a long and painful death because nobody can be bothered to provide the extremely cheap medication that could treat them. The children are also neglected, many suffering from lice and various infections.

From the island, you can occasionally hear explosions. Whenever you hear one, you know that a local fisherman is blasting a nearby coral reef to catch fish for YOUR dinner. Yes, dynamite fishing is still a reality here, and what is even more shocking is that many people seem to consider it normal.

Snorkeling and diving in these waters is an incredibly depressing experience. Instead of thriving reefs and abundant marine life, you are often confronted with the visible consequences of years of destructive fishing practices. For us, it was heartbreaking to see such a beautiful environment being damaged so severely.

We also saw a man ( probably local mobster ) on the island whom everyone called “the boss,” covered in gold, jewelry, and dressed in expensive Western clothes like some NBA star.

In the end, we realized that most of the money from these tours was actually going to him and to Filipino tour guides who aren't even part of the local community.

2nd Night – Onuk

This island was noticeably better. The campsite was acceptable, and the area was generally clean. However, it is also a protected marine area and a turtle sanctuary supposedly monitored by the local Coast Guard.

Despite its protected status, it was common to see those same Coast Guard officers surrounding the entire island in the evening with fishing lines, hooks, and nets. So if you enjoy late-night swimming, there is a good chance you will end up tangled in fishing line or netting.

During nesting season, it is apparently common for groups of 20–30 tourists to gather around a nesting turtle at night, shining flashlights directly at her and filming her while talking and shouting loudly. For an animal that has come ashore to lay eggs in what is supposed to be a protected area, this level of disturbance is incredibly disappointing to see.

Island-Hopping Stops Along the Way

This part of the tour was decent. We visited many beautiful locations, and there was certainly no shortage of stops. However, all of these places are relatively close to one another, and in our opinion, the experience still does not justify the high price of the tour.

If you still decide to take this tour, this is what you're supporting:

• exploitation of underpaid local residents
• destruction of fragile marine ecosystems and marine life
• neglect and suffering of local animals
• local mobsters
• non-local tour guides and operators who profit from the hardship of the local community

What you DO NOT SUPPORT:

• local community
• conservation of the ecosystem and natural environment
• eco-tourism
• sustainable development of the islands and their residents

Every visit to these islands is not an adventure, it is another blow to the local community and the environment.

Balabac is the Wild West of the Philippines, and until the government takes serious steps to regulate tourism and protect both the people and the environment, this is a destination that should be avoided.