4 Months Climbing Training Plan
Hey,
Iam in the super privileged position, that from now in mid August until mid December (so 4 months) I have a lot of time. I can basically spend as much time climbing and training for climbing as I want, any day of the week.
My goal is to establish 6c as a grade I can consistently onsight and maybe sent one 7a.
Iam 30 years old, 178cm in height and weight 72kg. Ape index 0. I climb lead for about 2 1/2 years, Boulder for about 3 1/2 years. I currently boulder V5 flash and climb 6b onsight very consistently. My max grades are V6 Boulder on the Kilterboard and 6c lead.
These next 4 months I want to focus on lead climbing. I have access to a climbing gym (with a lot of Autobelays), a Kilterboard and all climbing specific training equipment there is. Also to a "normal" gym. On mondays and wednesdays i can climb with friends.
In my training I need to include shoulder exercises due to past impingements. I worked with a PT and have exercises specified to me. Over the last two months I have been regularly climbing 2-3 times a week. Mostly unstructured and just for fun, but I did one endurance session each week, where I climbed a lot of easy volume. Now I would like to take a more structured approach.
I searched around in here and watched some YouTube Videos and came up with the following plan:
Monday: Projecting hard climbs (6c/6c+)
Tuesday: Shoulder exercises
Wednesday: Lead climbing focused on technical aspects (6a - 6b+)
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Power Endurance (4x4 V2-V3 on Kilterboard)
Saturday: Shoulder exercises
Sunday: Rest
This is the first time I will ever follow a structured plan by myself. I have a background of playing semi-professional football (soccer) when I was younger so Iam used to training. Doing it all by myself is of course different than doing it with a team and coach.
I guess my question is If the plan makes sense. Is there anything obvious Iam missing? Iam also concerned if, now that I have all that time, I should maybe be doing more? But then also I fear injury if I do too much.
Happy to hear some insights.
(Sorry if something is not 100% perfect english)