u/FaintUprise8

One-finger deadhang training

As a climber, my biggest long-term goal in calisthenics is to achieve the one-arm, one-finger pull-up. In order to do that, I must first achieve the one-arm, one-finger deadhang. Right now, I can comfortably perform multiple pull-ups on good one-finger pockets. However, the jump to a one-finger, one-arm pocket seems very far away.

In order to improve my climbing, I recently started training my fingers in the traditional way for the first time (hangboarding on three-finger drag and half-crimp positions while steadily adding weight), but I am not sure whether or how that will carry over to the one-finger hang. Should i train the one finger separately? How should I do it? How do people who achieve the one-finger deadhang train for it? I am also concerned about injury prevention, and I know this to be a long-term endeavour.

For reference, I've been climbing for 3 years (the last 2 at mostly lower intensity due to a recently healed shoulder injury), and I am 167 cm, around 67 kg, and 19 yo.

I know it is a niche question, but I found no online resources to help with this. Thank you in advance :)

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u/FaintUprise8 — 11 days ago