Image 1 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 2 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 3 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 4 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 5 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 6 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
Image 7 — Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed).  Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker
▲ 209 r/smoking

Broke down and got a whole steer (1,018lb black angus, 13 day dry aged after being slaughtered, pasture raised grass/grain/corn fed). Now I need help...what to smoke first (half kidding) and very seriously, how to smoke the brisket as it won't fit in my egg smoker

So with screwworm, the FDA doing whatever they're doing (or rather, not doing), beef recalls, lowest cattle head counts in decades, etc all causing constant price increases of beef (and apparently nothing but predictions they're going to continue going up for at least the next 1-2 years) my wife and I decided to get a whole steer. We split it with our friends, and in total took home just about 680lbs of beef (split evenly between us and our friends...the processor did that for us thankfully).

We chose how to have it butchered (cuts, etc), I added a photo for anyone curious how we chose to have it separated.

All that said, I do now have a problem...my brisket doesn't fit in my large egg smoker. Does anyone know a reasonable solution to this? It seems wrong to separate the point from the flat and do them separately, but is that the only solution?

Please feel free to throw in any advice on what to smoke next or any other good ideas/pointers you've got on what to do with any/everything else that we've got haha.

u/FantasyMaster85 — 2 days ago
▲ 15 r/smoking

Very first whole smoked brisket results…thanks for the tips/pointers on my other post. It didn’t come out perfect (missing some bark), but I didn’t end up with 18lbs of chili meat either!

So it was an 18lb brisket to start (you can see the photos of it at the end of the set of photos of before/after trimming). I made a post about “how did I do trimming it” the other day here https://www.reddit.com/r/smoking/comments/1utmdp8/going_to_be_my_very_first_whole_briskethowd_i_do/

Got some good feedback/tips. I used the roughly 4lbs of trimmed fat to make tallow with (one of the tips). I put it in with the brisket during smoking, so the tallow has a nice Smokey flavor (used it on filets last night instead of butter while cooking…was fucking amazing…screw my arteries right? lol).

Anyway, so details on the brisket…end result was phenomenal. In the GIF you’ll see I change my hand position on the knife, and that’s because the weight of the blade was cutting through it…was like a loaf of jello lol. I think my wife was more excited than I was because she was like “I need a video of this”.

I smoked it at 225-250 degrees until it hit about 170 (had the probe where the flat meets the point). It had stalled already, but I couldn’t get a nice dark bark on the flat. It barked a little, but not as much as I wanted so I let it continue without a wrap until probably about halfway through the stall. Then I got nervous about drying it out so I was like screw it, I’d rather have moist meet with less bark than a perfect bark and dry meet. All in all it was at about the 10 hour mark that I ended up wrapping it (foil and with a generous helping of the rendered tallow). After I wrapped it I upped the temp to between 260-280 degrees.

I smoked it fat cap down, when wrapped it had the fat cap up. Was smoked in a Kamado egg style smoker with a heat deflector, pan of water on the heat deflector, cooking rack on top of that.

After it hit 190 (which took several more hours) I started checking for “probe tender” and at about 196 I was able to push a kebab stick into it almost by breathing on it lol. So I pulled it at that point, and left it in a cooler (left the wrap on, wrapped it in towels, then put it in the cooler). Left it like that overnight and the result is what you see in the photos.

Apart from a little missing bark, it’s perfectly cooked. Juicy, so so tender, jello like, but still with a good “meaty” bite and perfect smoke flavor (I used oak and pecan).

Thank you again for all the tips/help!!

u/FantasyMaster85 — 1 month ago
▲ 25 r/smoking

Going to be my very first whole brisket…how’d I do trimming? Felt criminal sometimes what I was cutting off. Will be smoking it in a Kamado Joe egg style smoker

Watched a bunch of videos, this was the end result (final image is after a mustard rub and using “Holy Cow” BBQ rub from “Meat Church”). Going to let it sit for 18 hours before I get it started on the smoker (going to use oak and pecan).

As for the trimming there were a few times I felt like a cut too much off, and there are a few areas where I felt like I should have kept going. I’m probably overthinking it.

This is going to be my “test brisket” as my wife and I went in on buying a whole steer together with one of our friends. The steer is black angus and after they slaughter it they dry age it for 10 days before butchering. Going to ask them to not butcher the brisket and i told my buddy I’d smoke the whole thing and split it afterwards.

I’ve smoked just about everything in the smoker since i got it, have the heat dialed in, the smoke, etc. Ribs, chicken, shoulder all coming out great. So before I throw an entire black angus dry aged brisket in, I figured I should try this first as a practice run lol.

How’s the trim look? Any other tips on smoking it/trimming it from you guys? Thanks for any advice!

u/FantasyMaster85 — 1 month ago
▲ 88 r/Decks

How’d I do fellow deck enjoyers? First time staining/sealing a painfully worn deck

My father in law had this deck put on his house over three years ago. It gets basically all day hot direct sun, and we get some very cold winters.

I told him multiple times we needed to get it stained and sealed, and it was always on “his list” but we never got around to doing it (we’d always end up on other projects together, but I think it was just that the deck seemed like too much for him at his age).

Unfortunately he’s not well now, and isn’t currently able to come home. So after two weekends the above is the end result, very much looking forward to showing him the photos.

Steps taken:

Pre cleaner put down

Power washed with a combination of 40 and 25 degree nozzles

Wood brightener put down and hosed down

Let dry and hand sanded any of the areas where the pressure washer exposed some pulp/texture (some areas that couldn’t be helped, the gray/mold was very deep in a number of places)

Used Cabot semi transparent stain and sealer (Tuscan Gold) put down with a pump sprayer, immediately followed with back brushing

u/FantasyMaster85 — 2 months ago
▲ 31 r/frigate_nvr+1 crossposts

Did a 30 runs of llama-bench to find optimal settings for my use case (Frigate and HomeAssistant) on my MI60 32gb VRAM GPU - two models tested Gemma4 and Qwen3.6 - Figured I'd share in case it helps anyone else

I'm running llama.cpp using this docker container: https://github.com/mixa3607/ML-gfx906 (it's just a lot easier than building from source, which I was doing previously). The MI60 (or MI50) are just a real pain in the behind to get working with Ubuntu 24.04. That container has it up in minutes, real timesaver.

Anyway, my personal use case for LLM's is primarily for Frigate to review camera footage and cut down on "notification noise" (it's like having a human review footage to determine what I need to know about and what I don't). The other use is for HomeAssistant. I ditched all my Alexa devices and replaced it with this (it's amazing).

Anyway, I wanted to be sure I was getting the absolute most of out my hardware for speed and efficiency. I had Claude write me a script that would do batch testing of of the two models I got great accuracy out for those two use cases.

  • Gemma 4 26B.A4B Q4_1
  • Qwen3 35B.A3B Q4_0

The MI60 (and MI50) get a speed boost on the _0 and _1 quants inherently, which is why I use them. The only reason for not using 4_1 for both is the size. I use 3 slots, each with their own cache so the size difference between the qwen 4_0 and 4_1 was eating too much space for my desired context size.

The final result of the testing had a HUGE impact on the speed of both HA (less than 1.2 seconds to complete my voice commands) and Frigate (less than 18 seconds for review summaries of footage). I figured I'd share this here in case it helps anyone else. The following is generated by Claude (summary of what the script did, and it generated the table of results from the outcome of running the script):

The benchmark sweep script executed 30 total runs across 8 sections, testing two models — Gemma 4 26B Q4_1 and Qwen3 35B Q4_0 — against three KV cache pre-fill depths (0, 1,000, and 6,000 tokens) with a fixed 512-token prompt and 128 generation tokens per run, each repeated 5 times internally by llama-bench for statistical stability. The knobs turned were: flash attention on vs. off; KV cache quantisation at three levels (f16 default, q8_0, and q4_0); ubatch size at four values (512, 2048, 4096, and 8192); logical batch size at two values (2048 and 8192); CPU thread count at three values (8, 12, and 24); and two ROCm-specific environment variables — GGML_ROCM_FORCE_MMQ (1 vs. 0, switching between quantised matmul kernels and rocBLAS GEMM) and HSA_ENABLE_SDMA (enabled vs. disabled, switching between DMA and blit-copy memory transfers). Sections 1 through 7 each varied exactly one parameter while holding all others at the production baseline, enabling clean attribution of any performance change to a single cause. Section 8 then stacked three combinations of the most promising individual results — SDMA disabled with q8_0 KV, SDMA disabled with q4_0 KV, and SDMA disabled plus MMQ off plus q8_0 KV — to determine whether gains compounded or cancelled when applied together. The production llama-server container was stopped before each run to ensure exclusive GPU access, and each model configuration was launched as a fresh throwaway container from the same image used in production, with identical device mappings, volume mounts, and environment variables.

https://preview.redd.it/mb0jdzqg1x2h1.png?width=1278&format=png&auto=webp&s=6f2f23c55b45bbb4b9bfebd1af4874f0a21069de

reddit.com
u/FantasyMaster85 — 3 months ago

https://preview.redd.it/e5z8lrxe66zg1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=c269bca89b7ad8b8fa07d487ee2ae41f811be433

This is just a heads up for those of you using the GenAI function with Frigate. It's extraordinarily powerful (I was able to cut my "notification spam" to absolutely zero...I only get alerts for threat level 1 and 2 now, and they're 100% accurate and I can tell at a glance whether I need to watch the video or not). I've saved all my notifications for the past three days and made a short video (at bottom of the post). The times when it's actually me/my wife/both of us getting in the car, we almost never get notifications about that because part of my prompt is "if [my name] or [wifes name] are recognized, which you'll know if they're passed along to you in the object list, no matter what is happening in the scene it's threat level 0". So in the video the few that there are of us is when it didn't recognize our faces or we deliberately hid them.

Anyway, back to the main point of the post...with a well crafted prompt, I'm able to use "dumber" models to get additional speed while not losing out on the details that I'm looking for. I've got an absolutely MASSIVE prompt and am currently using gemma 4 26b A4B on an AMD MI60 GPU with 32gb VRAM. I have 130k context (two parallel slots, each with their own 130k context window). My current Frigate metrics show that I'm getting my review summaries as:

Average Inference Time 50722.53ms
(and it would be about 15 seconds less than that if I didn't allocate the 1024 thinking tokens, but I've found that without any thinking at all with this model, even with a good prompt it can get details incorrect)

I'll save my entire prompt for another post, as I had to modify a core python file (frigate/genai/__init__.py ) to have my prompt come after the "analyses guidelines" (which I also had to modify, as a number of the elements of it were interfering with my mechanical rules that I wanted to be followed strictly, and there were too many references to allowing it to "think" about the scene versus just following precisely what I told it to do...it would talk itself out of things being a threat level and assigning them a 0 that I wanted to be threat level 2).

Just a quick example, if it were the middle of the day and I ran out to get something out of the car but my face was hidden, it would assign threat level 0 because "this appears to be a homeowner retrieving something from your car" ...and while that's technically correct, my prompt says that any time ANY unknown person at all EVER opens or interacts with my car that it HAS to be a threat level 2. We park in a townhouse parking lot with shared parking and on a street where plenty of people walk their dogs and such. We've had our car broken into twice and my wife can occasionally forget to lock the doors. If someone that the facial recognition doesn't recognize opens a car door, I don't want the AI "guessing" if that's a problem...its ALWAYS a problem.

Anyway, like I said, that's for a different post.

          ====================================================================
          VEHICLE DOOR SIDE CLASSIFICATION — U.S. DRIVER STANDARD
          DETERMINISTIC RULE SET (NO HEURISTICS)
          ====================================================================

          None of what follows is "relative" to anything.  It's to be interpreted only as written explicitly. No reasoning or thinking.  Follow in the order given:

          STEP 1
          1 - can you see the headlights and/or grill - if so, that means the vehicle is "front facing" - stop - otherwise
          2 - can you see the taillights and/or the trunk - if so, that means the vehicle is "rear facing" - stop 
          Now you now whether its front of rear facing
          END STEP 1

          STEP 2
          1 - Divide the entirety of the viewable frame perfectly down a dividing line that is dictated by the center of the viewable vehicle (to be done per vehicle).  That should give you two "rectangles" that bewteen the two are the entirety of the frame. 
          2 - Is the person or object of interest in the left rectangle? If so, then they're "left side" - stop - otherwise
          3 - Is the person or object of interest in the right rectangle? - then they're "right side" - stop
          Now you now whether they're on the "left side" or "right side"
          END STEP 2

          STEP 3
          1 - "Front facing" combined with "left side" = passenger side - stop - otherwise
          2 - "Front facing" combined with "right side" = drivers side - stop - otherwise
          3 - "Rear facing" combined with "left side" is drivers side - stop - otherwise
          4 - "Rear facing" combined with "right side" is passengers side - stop
          END STEP 3

          STEP 4
          OUTPUT FORMAT (MANDATORY):
          - Use EXACTLY ONE of the following:
          - "Driver-side door"
          - "Passenger-side door"
          - "Door side undetermined"

          OUTPUT ORDER (MANDATORY — follow this sequence exactly):
          1. Resolve vehicle orientation and door side first (silent or shown) using the steps above
          2. Explain to yourself how you arrived at the determination to be sure, mechanically going through them
          3. Write scene description using the resolved door side label after the above step

          Do NOT write the scene description before door side is resolved (if it's relevant to the scene)
          The scene description MUST use the door side label produced by the 
          classification steps above — never an independently assumed label.
          END STEP 4

So that's just one part of my very long prompt about vehicle door side classification. You might think that even that is absurdly long for one thing...and I've tried many many iterations and I finally realized I should just upload the screenshots of things it was getting wrong to my localLLM and ask it to tell me why it came to the conclusion that it did. This helped me immensely in writing my prompt to get the results I wanted. For example, when I first had the prompt I had the front/rear facing part working (it identifying the front/rear of the car) and it just would CONTINUOUSLY say "driver side". So I uploaded it and asked it to tell me why, and it would say "well the person is on the right side of the frame"...which is technically correct...I am on the right side of the frame, but not the right side of the car. There's more to it than that, but that's a quick summary.

So, if you're not getting the results you want from your prompt (or don't have a very good one to begin with), try deliberately doing some things on your camera, taking some screenshots of them, uploading them to your LLM of choice and have it explain how it's coming the incorrect conclusions that it is.

https://reddit.com/link/1t3qcf8/video/zz8i50v2z5zg1/player

reddit.com
u/FantasyMaster85 — 4 months ago

https://preview.redd.it/qo2hllhbp5zg1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=cd71cf280ee539234b068429074b47a866cf4bed

This is just a heads up for those of you using the GenAI function with Frigate. It's extraordinarily powerful (I was able to cut my "notification spam" to absolutely zero...I only get alerts for threat level 1 and 2 now, and they're 100% accurate and I can tell at a glance whether I need to watch the video or not). I've saved all my notifications for the past three days and made a GIF (second image) showing what it looks like.

What's more, is with a well crafted prompt, I'm able to use "dumber" models to get additional speed while not losing out on the details that I'm looking for. I've got an absolutely MASSIVE prompt and am currently using gemma 4 26b A4B on an AMD MI60 GPU with 32gb VRAM. I have 130k context (two parallel slots, each with their own 130k context window). My current Frigate metrics show that I'm getting my review summaries as:

Average Inference Time 50722.53ms
(and it would be about 15 seconds less than that if I didn't allocate the 1024 thinking tokens, but I've found that without any thinking at all with this model, even with a good prompt it can get details incorrect)

I'll save my entire prompt for another post, as I had to modify a core python file (frigate/genai/__init__.py ) to have my prompt come after the "analyses guidelines" (which I also had to modify, as a number of the elements of it were interfering with my mechanical rules that I wanted to be followed strictly, and there were too many references to allowing it to "think" about the scene versus just following precisely what I told it to do...it would talk itself out of things being a threat level and assigning them a 0 that I wanted to be threat level 2).

Just a quick example, if it were the middle of the day and I ran out to get something out of the car but my face was hidden, it would assign threat level 0 because "this appears to be a homeowner retrieving something from your car" ...and while that's technically correct, my prompt says that any time ANY unknown person at all EVER opens or interacts with my car that it HAS to be a threat level 2. We park in a townhouse parking lot with shared parking and on a street where plenty of people walk their dogs and such. We've had our car broken into twice and my wife can occasionally forget to lock the doors. If someone that the facial recognition doesn't recognize opens a car door, I don't want the AI "guessing" if that's a problem...its ALWAYS a problem.

Anyway, like I said, that's for a different post.

          ====================================================================
          VEHICLE DOOR SIDE CLASSIFICATION — U.S. DRIVER STANDARD
          DETERMINISTIC RULE SET (NO HEURISTICS)
          ====================================================================

          None of what follows is "relative" to anything.  It's to be interpreted only as written explicitly. No reasoning or thinking.  Follow in the order given:

          STEP 1
          1 - can you see the headlights and/or grill - if so, that means the vehicle is "front facing" - stop - otherwise
          2 - can you see the taillights and/or the trunk - if so, that means the vehicle is "rear facing" - stop 
          Now you now whether its front of rear facing
          END STEP 1

          STEP 2
          1 - Divide the entirety of the viewable frame perfectly down a dividing line that is dictated by the center of the viewable vehicle (to be done per vehicle).  That should give you two "rectangles" that bewteen the two are the entirety of the frame. 
          2 - Is the person or object of interest in the left rectangle? If so, then they're "left side" - stop - otherwise
          3 - Is the person or object of interest in the right rectangle? - then they're "right side" - stop
          Now you now whether they're on the "left side" or "right side"
          END STEP 2

          STEP 3
          1 - "Front facing" combined with "left side" = passenger side - stop - otherwise
          2 - "Front facing" combined with "right side" = drivers side - stop - otherwise
          3 - "Rear facing" combined with "left side" is drivers side - stop - otherwise
          4 - "Rear facing" combined with "right side" is passengers side - stop
          END STEP 3

          STEP 4
          OUTPUT FORMAT (MANDATORY):
          - Use EXACTLY ONE of the following:
          - "Driver-side door"
          - "Passenger-side door"
          - "Door side undetermined"

          OUTPUT ORDER (MANDATORY — follow this sequence exactly):
          1. Resolve vehicle orientation and door side first (silent or shown) using the steps above
          2. Explain to yourself how you arrived at the determination to be sure, mechanically going through them
          3. Write scene description using the resolved door side label after the above step

          Do NOT write the scene description before door side is resolved (if it's relevant to the scene)
          The scene description MUST use the door side label produced by the 
          classification steps above — never an independently assumed label.
          END STEP 4

So that's just one part of my very long prompt about vehicle door side classification. You might think that even that is absurdly long for one thing...and I've tried many many iterations and I finally realized I should just upload the screenshots of things it was getting wrong to my localLLM and ask it to tell me why it came to the conclusion that it did. This helped me immensely in writing my prompt to get the results I wanted. For example, when I first had the prompt I had the front/rear facing part working (it identifying the front/rear of the car) and it just would CONTINUOUSLY say "driver side". So I uploaded it and asked it to tell me why, and it would say "well the person is on the right side of the frame"...which is technically correct...I am on the right side of the frame, but not the right side of the car. There's more to it than that, but that's a quick summary.

So, if you're not getting the results you want from your prompt (or don't have a very good one to begin with), try deliberately doing some things on your camera, taking some screenshots of them, uploading them to your LLM of choice and have it explain how it's coming the incorrect conclusions that it is.

https://reddit.com/link/1t3q7i1/video/1y01fbiqy5zg1/player

reddit.com
u/FantasyMaster85 — 4 months ago