Something similar to Barbarian Days by William Finnegan.
Favourite book, just read it a second time. Love the way surfing is a constant thread but does not dominate the story entirely. Some surf books are just too surfing heavy with little substance elsewhere. Any recommendations for other books. Reading Captain zero at present it's decent but no barbarian days, have also read tapping the source (odd book) and some of the Jlopez book.
Anything similar?
Thanks in advance!