r/surfing

Hey there (:

As in the title, I would love to try surfing in a surf camp but I cannot kneel down really good. At least with the weight being on only one leg.

The problem is, a lot of muscle and some of my femur bone were removed including my knee. I do longboard skating and that works pretty well. Left leg (the broken one) is doing the pushing and stopping while my right leg does the balancing on the board. I stand goofy, but it works that way.

I also tried the pop-up a few times and that works as well. I saw videos of people surfing longboards and could stand pretty upright, maybe this is something for me?

My question is, do you guys see a possibility for me to surf? I'm 28 and not ready to give up so much of the fun activities. I'm a bit scared/shy to do the move and book the surf camp.

Surfing is all I think about. It’s all I want to do. Does this feeling ever go away OG surfers? I’ve been doing it only 2 years but I go at least 4 times a week. Whenever there are waves I will find a way to get out. I’ve even gone at night before.

I’ve been surfing my whole life, but got really into it when I was 12. I’m 23 now. I was born in Hawaii, grew up in Florida, and live in Hawaii now. Ever since I’ve moved back here my desire to surf has slowly been slipping away, and I have no clue why.

I think I’m a bit spooked by the reef breaks here as I learned entirely on tame beach breaks in Florida. I also had a really bad hold down the last time I went out and since then even the thought of surfing gets my heart pounding.

It used to be a super fun and relaxing thing I did but now I dread it, although I want to find my surfing spirit again. Does anyone have any suggestions or has anyone lived through a similar experience.

PS: I do a lot of bodysurfing now, but nothing on a board. I guess I might be getting my fix from that. Not sure. It’s just easier to hop in the water and have fun with bodysurfing. Much less commitment than with surfing.

If you had to choose to live in either NSB or OBX based on surf consistency/conditions alone, which would you choose?

I saw a lady drop a deuce on my local Surfline cam yesterday

All good I understand no worries we all been there, except she didn’t pick it up.

Should I report this? It’s all on camera

Would you rather spend 5 days in September On Guided boats twice a day in Southern Nic? Or land based in Costa Rica (Tamarindo/Nosara)

Intermediate surfer looking to surf as much a possible on a 6 day trip. Heard stories of Nic being super heavy in Sep and I don’t want to get totally wrecked. Main goal is to surf fun waves 5 hours a day.

This Friday May 22nd they have private parties for surfing at 5:30PM & 6:30PM. I have 6 boys that want to join -- but the rate of $3,180 is too steep for us.

Anyone down to join with your boys, split the cost & join us? Let me know. Message or dm.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning a longer solo surf trip for this summer/autumn and would really appreciate some honest advice and recommendations from people who have done something similar.I’m from Switzerland, intermediate surfer, travelling alone, and I’ll probably have roughly from June/July until around mid October available. My main goal is honestly just to surf as much as possible, improve consistently and experience an amazing few months around surfing. I would describe myself as intermediate, but I still don’t have that much experience surfing reefs and more powerful waves consistently. At the moment I ride a 5’10 daily-driver type board with a bit more volume and I’m considering buying an additional small step-up board during the trip if needed once I improve more.

My original plan was to start in Bali and Lombok, partly because it seemed like a good place to settle in at the beginning, meet other surfers/travellers and get comfortable before continuing elsewhere. From there I was thinking about continuing through parts of Indonesia such as Java, Krui and possibly Sumatra. I was also looking into places like Sumbawa, but from what I’ve read many waves there seem quite advanced/heavy for someone at my level. Other places I considered were Rote, Nias/Asu, Sumba although those seem much more remote and logistically complicated.
I also looked at Mentawais, Telos, Simeulue and the maldives which obviously look incredible, but they seem significantly more expensive and maybe more suited for later once I’ve improved more.

Originally I was also thinking about connecting the trip with Siargao afterwards, but I’m currently trying to figure out how realistic travelling around with surfboards actually is. The more I research flights around the Philippines, especially smaller domestic flights to Siargao, the more stressful it seems with surfboard length limits, uncertain baggage acceptance etc.

Another thing making me unsure lately is the amount of negative things I keep reading online about Bali and Lombok being extremely overcrowded nowadays, especially regarding lineups. Some people make it sound like Indo is basically ruined unless you already surf at a really high level or know hidden spots.

Because of that I’m suddenly questioning my whole route again and even considering whether I should maybe go somewhere completely different instead (for example parts of South America).

So I would really appreciate honest opinions and recommendations from people who have done longer surf trips recently:

• Is Bali/Lombok still worth it as a starting point for a longer trip?
• How stressful/crowded is it really in practice?
• How manageable is travelling around Indonesia with surfboards?
• Would you still recommend Indonesia for someone in my situation or would you genuinely consider somewhere else?
• Any regions/routes/countries you would especially recommend for an intermediate surfer wanting to improve as much as possible over 3–4 months?

Would really appreciate any advice or experiences 🙏

I experimented with all the recipes I found on the internet (mostly reddit and youtube). After 10+ fails, I found the best recipe for all natural surfwax!

Surfwax is made with 3 main ingredients:

1) Beewax (you find it in health food stores, mine comes from a local bee-keeper 20euro's/kg).

2)Coconut oil (you find it in health food stores of even big groceries 10euro/kg)

3) pine-resin (you find it on health food stores 25euro/kg)

I use 66%beewax, 19%coconut oil, 15% pine resin. The wax you get is for 'normal' european temperatures. (under 10 degrees outside i heat the wax a bit up with the car heating)

Ingredients

STEP 1: Bring water to a boil in a pot. Put little saucepans in the water bath. First the beewax goes in.

STEP 1: beewax

STEP 2: When the beewax is completely melted (stirring is not necessary), I add the coconut oil. Coconut oil is sticky/melty, act fast.

STEP 2: coconut oil

STEP 3: When completely melted, add the pine resin.

STEP 3: Pine Resin

STEP 4: Let it heat for a while and then start stirring. The melting point of the resin is higher then the rest of the mixture, but by stirring it, it dissolves into the wax. If not, you get a big lump of resin at the bottom = shitty wax. I use a wooden stick to stirr.

STEP 4: mix it up

When completely liquid (between water and oil) it's done!

final mixture

I made a custom silicone mold (easy to make with a silicon set and 3D printer) for my Belgian surfclub Tidal Warriors. But you can use any silicon mold. In the experimental fase I used cupcake molds.

Silicon Molds

STEP 5: Pour the hot mixture in the mold.

STEP 5: Pour

STEP 6: When poured, i add a few drops of scent (essential oil), my choice is sweet orange, because at the time it was the cheapest.

STEP 6: Scent

Step 7: No waste, every drop becomes an ugly waxbar later on.

STEP 7: No waste!!

It takes up to 4hours to dry. And it's done!

Final Product! (product is real, background is AI)

Without packaging it costs 1,65 euro's a bar (55g).

All to to is take it surfing!!

Wax it up! Video is taken in Oostende, Belgium.

This stuff reeeeeks. I got talked into it by a bunch of groms and few rippers at the store. But this stuff has me wondering why my living room smells like a porta potty.

So I was out this morning and paddled for a wave, which I missed. I then spin around and there’s two people paddling for a wave that they end up splitting. I paddled and split the gap between ‘em, but then one of the guys aggro’d on me. Feel like I did the right thing, but I’m interested in whether my decision was correct?

This is a tale as old as surfing has existed. How do you navigate your relationship along with your passion for chasing waves ?

I have been in different relationships over my 20+ years surfing. I have had a range of feeling from partners: joy and support to apathy and concern about my obsession. I even dated someone who surfed which was almost more challenging (like when conditions got too critical.)

I have had partners love and “support” my love of the ocean at the beginning of a relationship. At some point they feel “left out” “not considered” or “bummed” when I choose a session over dinner, or meeting up with friends/family or events.

I am a US east coast surfer, conditions can change within hours and with a full schedule it is hard to get windows to chase swell and shred. Also it will most likely be knee high at best until late august .

I feel I spend a lot of quality time with my partner, however after bingeing on waves for a weekend it’s not enough. I feel like unless you get the bug you don’t get it?

So how do y’all find the balance to get your sessions and still have quality time ? This is an even bigger question for surfers with kids and marriage.

Thanks !