Noticed that a lot of tying videos using lead don’t really spend a lot of time talking about it. Thought I’d make a video primer for tyers about using it in patterns.
https://youtu.be/\_jMAfva2QUQ?si=61n6ksNXMMlMwxDE
Cheers
Recently posted this fly. It seemed popular and I had a few minutes to spare so I created a tying video for kicks.
A rather plain looking imitation of a free living caddis found in one of my local streams. It’s not heavily weighted, relying on just 6 wraps of flattened .02” lead wire, but its slim profile gets down reasonably fast in slower water. Probably the plainest nymph in my collection—no hot spots, no bright thread—the only attractor element is the thin metallic Kelly green rib.
-Hook: Skalka P #14 or similar
-Thread: Uni 8/0 black
-Underbody: 6 wraps flattened .02” lead
-Tail/Claspers: Olive Antron
-Over Rib: 7x Fluorocarbon tippet
-Rib: Sulky Kelly green metallic mylar
-Back: Clear 1/8” scud back coloured*
-Body: Dark olive squirrel dubbing
-Thorax: Peacock ice dub
*Notes: Tie in order listed. Lead is wrapped just ahead of the tail tie in point with superglue under. After dubbing the body, rib with the Sulky (or similar). Dub the thorax sparsely. Tint the scud back with an olive marker on both sides (I use a Pantone marker). Pull the scud back forward tightly and temporarily secure behind the eye before over ribbing with the tippet to secure the scud back. At the point where the thorax begins, release the wraps securing the scud back and finish winding the tippet forward securing it behind the eye. Pull the scud back forward over the thorax and build a neat head before whip finishing. Use a black Sharpy to tint the case over the thorax area and pick out the dubbing to act as legs. Seal the head with cement or superglue.
Not a particularly easy tie, but the resulting fly catches pressured picky fish in slow to moderate current seams.
The last image is a photo of the natural next to a rougher version of this fly, just for reference.
I’m almost embarrassed to post this, but the damn thing has been taking large mouth, crappy and pike minnows on one of my local creeks like crazy. I originally tried it for cutthroat, but at least they have the good sense to avoid such an ugly looking fly. I’ve tried a few different colour combinations, but this fritz seems to be the ticket (though fl. chartreuse or insect green would likely work too).
Hook: Any #12 Barbless Jig
Bead: 3.2mm slotted copper tungsten
Thread: Uni 8/0 white
Tail: Fl. White Maribou
Body: Yellow-Green Razor Fritz
Hackle: Cream Hen Saddle
Tie in the order listed. The only “technical” aspect is to sweep back the fritz with each wrap forward.
I’ll go hide now.
I finally put together a decent video and posted it to my YouTube channel. It’s a broad profile nymph designed to look beefy while still sinking quickly for euro presentations.
My laptop (windows 10 based Toshiba Portege) has packed it in and i probably need a new hard drive. Anyone have any recommendations for very reasonable computer repair?
A bit of a long watch—apologies in advance. Search up the Wunderbar from a week or two ago for a material list, if you’re interested.
I put an earlier version up on YouTube if that’s easier (it’s actually better I think):
Had a cancellation today and managed to get down to my local creek to test a fly I’ve been putting through its paces. It’s been on almost nonstop for the last week.
Managed to get a “trophy” cutthroat in very skinny water. It’s funny when a 10” fish is considered a trophy 😂
The fly is called a Wunderbar. If anyone is interested the pattern and description is over on the flytying sub.
It’s a bit of a long shot, but maybe some of the UK stillwater crew can help me out.
As per the post title I’m trying to figure out the sink rate on an older model of the Airflo sixth sense 7/8 (forgot to label the cassette thinking I’d remember 12 years later).
Any help would be appreciated.
I was looking for a small nymph pattern with a thicc profile for heavier water and landed on this fly. What sets it apart from basic Hare’s Ear or similar flies is the use of a split thread loop for the body and thorax portions resulting in a dense scruffy texture to trap air, add movement and increase the profile without bulk. The Kelly green rib adds a little flash and segments the body.
- Hook: Maruto d791 jig or similar #14
- Bead: Gold disco Tungsten 2.8mm
- Thread: Bennichi 10/0 Olive
- Tail: CDL fibres
- Rib: Sulky metallic green
- Body: Chopped ginger Hare’s mask
- Thorax: Chopped Arizona Simiseal (golden peacock)
- Hackle: Hen cape brown furnace
-Collar: Fl. Fire Orange UTC 70
Tie in order listed. See above for notes.
Came across this pattern while listening to the author of this pattern on a podcast. It’s from the Wet Fly Swing podcast, episode 788–definitely worth a listen.
Mine’s very much a work in progress, but it’s a super cool pattern involving a lot of interesting (and I think worthwhile) techniques and I thought I’d put it out there. First he uses the thread (coloured with a sharpie) for the rib, simple and effective. The large thorax props the CDC while the cheeks, designed to imitate wing cases of smaller flies like the UK buzzers, add flash and separate the CDL hackle allowing for a faster sink rate (opinion here based on testing). Basically it’s a fly that needs nothing more than what’s in it. Of course I can’t leave well enough alone and tweaked the thorax with a dubbing loop and I’m thinking either fl. floss or goose biots for the cheeks might work while dropping the collar.
My pattern variation below.
- #14 Maruto D791 jig
- 3.2mm Copper Tunsten slotted bead
- 10/0 Bennichi Olive thread
- CDL tail
- Brown Sharpie for the rib
- Peacock Uni Tinsel medium (cheeks)
-Chopped Arizona Simiseal Thorax
-Woodduck CDC hackle
-Fl. Fire Orange UTC 70 Collar
Tie more or less in the order listed. The cheeks are a bit of a bugger to be honest and the collar should be a hell of a lot narrower. I’m slowly tightening it up, this was the fourth go and still not there yet.
A variation on a classic softy. Good for March browns, and a variety of brown/red mayflies. Meant to be fished damp as a film emerger or wet.
- Hook: #14 Dohiko 302
- Brown Sheer 14/0 thread
- Red cock hackle fibre tail
- Fusion Black Gold thread rib (or alt)**
- Brown/dun/red dubbing blend*
- Red cock hackle (undersized)***
- Bronze or brown dyed partridge
Tie in order listed.
* The dubbing blend is approximately 70% Hareline Leech brown rabbit, 35% natural dun/grey rabbit or squirrel, and 5% or less red seal or sub.
** The rib should be narrow tan floss, but can be subbed with small gold wire, small gold oval tinsel, or what have you (as I’ve done here).
***The cock hackle (Whiting pro grade dry fly in this case) is undersized and mostly to support the partridge in front.
A productive wet fly on small waters where PMDs and ginger caddis are found in sizes #12-16.
- #14 Dohiko 302 Barbless Hook
- 12/0 Bennichi light yellow (body)
- 0.01 lead wire (10 wraps)
- Ginger Hen cape fibres (tied short)
- X-fine copper wire rib (optional)
- Hare’s mask dubbing chopped (cheek)
- Hackle #1 Ginger hen cape (Whiting)
- Hackle #2 Cream hen cape (Whiting)
- Fl. Fire Orange UTC 70
Tie in order listed.
Hooked a cased caddis on my local stream. Cracked it open for the colour reference. Not a surprise that mop flies actually work—not that I’ve ever tied or used one.
Total case length was about 3cm, bug shown was a little over 2 cm.