u/Gratos_in_Panflavul

Filters : Yellow + Didymium + DB830 + GRB3.

G/B channel swap + hue adjustement done in u/irlab-uk.

I wonder if they plowed lines into the field to prevent fires ?

Filters : Yellow + Didymium + DB830 + GRB3.

G/B channel swap + hue adjustement done in u/irlab-uk.

This is in between the Lomochrome Purple look and the Lomo Turquoise 180° hue rotation look.

For a reminder the Lomo purple stack is : Yellow filter + didymium filter + DB830 + GRB3

The post processing I used the first time was a simple Blue/Green swap. Just like the original film.

Inspired by the Lomo turquoise 180° hue rotation I tried an other method to get the same effect but with a better sky color :

This time I do a Blue/Red swap and a 155° hue rotation. I'm reusing the files from when I experimented with the Lomo Purple inspired filter stack.

EDIT : fun fact : the different channel swap I used and the 155° hue rotation is a very convoluted way to do things. I could just have stayed with the original G/B swap and add to that a 30° hue rotation for exactly the same results.

ZWB3 + QB21 + QB21.

The warmer images are taken latter in the day. The first image and the last ones are closer to midday.

These filters are great for shooting deep into the forests. Most IR techniques would give a very uniform color if you shoot under the canopy because it is essentially an IR echo chamber. These filters can get you more colored results with a lot of green and yellow popping out when a plant is in direct light and pink red hues for the plants that are in the shade.

The filters can probably be hard to white balance for some cameras. I think it's why they're not used more often.

Edit : please note that the QB18 is way dryer (passes less IR) than the X1. Therefore the look will be different with each filter. Still they both belong to this category of strong IR blocking green filters.

ZWB3 + 2x QB21

I'm the only one posting these days... get to your cameras guys !

The place is pretty much in ruin I don't know what is planned here. The building in the center is interesting, It's build in an unusual manner : the place has a very high sealing and the stone paterns are not found anywhere else. It looks like a very high quality building but i'm not sure it was made for humans to live in, probably animals. I hope this place stays like this for a moment, I like being able to trespass in this place without running into somebody.

filters TB550/660/850 + GRB3 + Sepia B. No color edits at all besides the channel swap.

TB550/660/850 + GRB3 + Sepia B

This yellow world is nice.

ZWB3 + QB21 + QB21

Brittany, France, end on july 2026.

Filters : ZWB3 + QB21 + QB21

Thanks to u/goinglongonkryto for creating a very simple channels swap program that run in your browser that I used for these two images. These are SOOC jpegs that I inverted in this tiny 60KB porgram. It's way more convinient than having to open a photo program everytime.

I used a special app for this shots. I has the benefit of letting you disable sharpening totally (or detail/edge enhancement for those who like precision) which is a features that tend to plague thermal images.

The app produces with weird flickering as the AGC adjusts. I really like this effect when it's no too strong as it evokes very old black and white archive films.

Filters ZWB3 + 2xQB21

Channel swap : red to blue, green to red, blue to green.

This filters stack also lets a tiny bit or red in. Red blends with the UV and both are displayed as blue.

This video was taken on an infiray T3 (smartphone module). Resolution is 320x288.

I used a custom app that was made by somebody (who I don't know) a few years ago. It has a rare fonction that allows you to disable sharpening completely.

The app also lets you pick your upscaling algorythm among the most commun ones. I used catmull-rom.

There is one major flaw with the app : there is flickering when the tiniest colder or hotter element enters the frame.

I heard that thermal images had a lot of diffraction due to the nature of the very long wavelengths and that was why (along with the low resolution sensors) you had to apply sharpening.

I personnaly think that sharpening is the number one enemy in thermal video if you want to make art with it.

In this picture. Blue/violet is represented as blue, green as green and UV as red.

The 395nm LED light looks bright and violet.

The 365 tube light however shows orange and not red because as a tube light it emits in more than one band, one of which is green at 546nm, so this bit of green blends with the red color of the UV. If it would have been a monochromatic 365nm LED it would have shown properly red.

Sony a6300 full spectrum. Filters : Omega Nebular OIII + Heliopan Digital IR Cut + Hoya 80A.

I should do a comparison with a visible image because I have trouble remembering how the scene really look to the human eye.

Filters : Omega nebular OIII + Hoya 80A + Heliopan "digital" IR cut.

This is not NDVI which is mesured using red and near-IR and calculated with the following formula : NDVI=(NIR-R)/(NIR+R). But this stack obviously enhances contrast between healthy and dead plants as well.