u/Gullible-Drawing8346

I lost my oil filler cap. I drive a 2015 Chevy Spark LT. Every auto parts store I have gone to has recommended that I get the AC Delco FC254.

I have ordered the AC Delco FC254 twice now, and I've had to send it back both times because it didn't fit.

I also ordered one off Amazon that was specifically listed as being for the Chevy Spark for a number of years, but it also does not fit.

My first car was a Katrina car, as in it was flooded during Hurricane Katrina, and I did not know that when I bought it, and working on it was a nightmare because I was under the impression that I had a 2003 beetle but I had the engine of a 2001 Jetta and did not know. There's a part of me that is afraid that something like that is happening with my spark, but that can't be the case because I have had the transmission replaced on my spark under warranty and I am pretty sure that the dealership would have told me if my car had the wrong engine, like they wouldn't have honored the warranty if I had the wrong engine in my car, right?!?

The AC Delco FC254 wasn't wide enough to lock in, and the one on Amazon had the indentations for one of the metal prongs that sticks out to hold the oil filler cap in place, but not for the other one, so it didn't fit in at all. When I ordered the AC Delco FC254 oil filler cap, I ordered it through two different websites, and I'm wondering if it's possible that both of them are pulling from the same distribution warehouse, and maybe they have the right box with the wrong part and I just got the same right box with the wrong part twice because I got the second one about a week after I returned the first one, but that seems ridiculous, but given my luck with cars as indicated by the Katrina beetle and also the multiple free transmissions in one week that I discuss in another post, I don't think I'm in a position to write anything off as being impossible.

WHERE DO I FIND AN OIL FILLER CAP THAT WILL ACTUALLY FIT A 2015 CHEVY SPARK LT? WHY IS IT SUCH A TALL ORDER?

I drive a 2015 Chevy Spark LT, and I have been through three transmissions already. The one that was in the car when I got it, and two replacements, both times under the extended warranty because I was under 120,000 miles when the OG went out, and the first replacement went out after 27 miles so I got two free transmissions within a week, but that was just over a year and a half ago.

But I'm having trouble again, and it's throwing codes: p0171, p2096, p0965, p0700, and p0792. I was able to clear most of them, but p0171 and p0965 remain.

I'm going to write out what each of those codes means by my understanding so that if I'm wrong somebody can correct me and hopefully somebody can explain to me more on the ones that I don't really understand.

P0171 indicates that the air to fuel ratio is off with too much air in relation to the fuel. I think this might be a lingering code because I just replaced the air intake hose because it was cracked and the engine was idling rough and misfiring- I changed the spark plugs at the same time because I didn't see the crack when I was first trying to diagnose why it was misfiring, but they hadn't been changed since before I bought the car in 2019, so it was time for that anyway.

P2096 this code cleared and didn't come back, which is part of why I think the previous code is lingering and might be an error- it indicates too much oxygen in the exhaust, which would be a side effect of the air to fuel ratio being incorrect.

P0965 this is a pressure control solenoid error code, indicating indicating some kind of problem with the physical pressure control solenoid or corroded wire or electrical connection fault that is likely connected to the transmission control module. I haven't been able to check the transmission fluid yet, and frankly I'm a little scared too, so if anybody has recommendations on how I can do that without fucking up my car, I would really appreciate it. I would really love for this to be a simple repair and not a transmission replacement, even if it is covered under warranty. I've only put on like 30,000 miles on this transmission, so it feels insane that it would be fubar already.

P0700 is a generalized transmission alert code, and it cleared and has not returned even though the car is very much still not operating properly, so I'm hoping that that means that the previous code is correlated to something small and outside of the transmission instead of something devastating inside it, but I seek insight from people who know more about cars than me which is why I'm here.

P0792 correlates to a speed sensor and can force the car into limp mode, which would explain why I can't get it to go over 35 and it takes me like a block and a half to get up to 35, but it cleared out and didn't come back, so I'm hoping that it's also a side effect of the solenoid error that is somehow external to the transmission itself, but I don't know enough about cars to really understand it.

I'm going to describe the symptoms of what started happening with the car- it was idling rough and wasn't accelerating properly and seemed to be misfiring for a while and I had a mechanic come take a look at it and change the spark plugs a few weeks ago and the mechanic showed me how to change my own air intake because that was when we found that there was a hole in the old one and it seemed like it got better. One of the sections of the air intake that connects to a small hose wasn't sealed very well and I kept feeling this late sudden jerks that felt like misfiring in the engine until I properly sealed off that nozzle, and then it seemed perfectly contented as long as I stayed under 60 mph, which is fine because I live in Oregon and speed limit is 55 most places.

About a week and a half after those repairs, I drove into Washington where the speed limit is a little higher and I tried to match the flow of traffic, and after taking my exit from the interstate, I got caught at a light, and when the light changed, I stepped on the gas and the RPMs went up but the car stay at exactly where it was. I had to pump the gas pedal and crawl my way up to 35, and that has remained a consistent problem since. I've not driven it very far since, maybe a mile and a half total, I was very close to where I was headed. I'm waiting on a call back from the dealership where I got my transmission replaced to find out if I'm still under any kind of warranty, but it was a holiday weekend so I'm expecting that to take a while. I had a mechanic friend come out, the same one who helped me with the previous repairs, and that's who checked and then cleared the codes, but they didn't hang out with me for too long because they had other appointments, but they weren't able to find anything else drastically wrong with the car other than the fact that I don't have an oil filler cap right now, which is a whole different problem and I will be making a different post about that, but might be correlated somehow? I don't know enough about cars to know. It's not just open, I have a ball of foil and some rubber bands holding it together.

So with this limited information, what I'm really asking I guess is does this sound like it would be a decently affordable repair, or do you think it sounds like a full-blown transmission replacement?

And the second part of my question is, if it is a transmission replacement and I'm not under any kind of warranty anymore, are there any aftermarket transmissions that aren't CVT but will fit into a 2015 Chevy Spark and be more reliable so I don't have to live in constant fear of transmission trouble?