u/Hawkbait_3D

Polymaker Reccomended Print Settings Vs 300BlkFDE
▲ 2 r/3D2A

Polymaker Reccomended Print Settings Vs 300BlkFDE

I cant just talk about a cool thing so heres the 4570 form1 I just got approved for, Its based on the Middleton Made Pill Popper but it uses an FTN insert instead of regualr thread adapter and its got modified squatty baffles and its all be scaled, smushed and stretched for .458 to accomidate a 4570 lever action.

Ive been doing alot of printing recently in PA612-cf and Ive been using a apparently really outdated screenshot copy of the 300BlkFDE settings for feeds and speeds and apparently the reccomendations have changed a bit in the last 2ish years and 30mms isnt the speed limit anymore.

Im currently working on a very large Form 1 device that was approved yesterday and I was getting the backup solar power generator prepped for a 4 day print and when i sliced apparently Orca crashed and reset everything to defaults. After looking on here I found a few screenshotted copieds of the 300BLKFDE process and the speeds are now much faster than my old profile.

So heres the question. if people are printing massive Form 1 devices that you only get to print once, are you running 15mms first layers and 20-30mm other layers like the old 300BKFDE process or are you guys running a slightly faster 40-50mms. I suppose I should include Im printing on a non-modded P2S using a flow tuned Polymaker filament profile at 280C, 100C bed with a release agent.

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u/Hawkbait_3D — 1 day ago
▲ 8 r/3D2A

Ruger Mark II Threaded adapter - for 3/4-16 devices

Im sorry if this looks like a carbon copy of my 1022 adapter but after printing a few spares and testing the 1022 front sight bulge to 3/4-16 adapters I was testing them on my 1022s and I looked at my Ruger Mark II on the wall and though, that looks identical to the sight bulge on the 1022.

After taking some measurements Its not exactly the same, but it sure is close and so i redeisgned the same system for the Mark II with some things I learned from modeling the 1022. The collar is lighter and thinner, the sides are smoothed and the overhangs have been removed to make it easier to print in PA612-CF.

People on the last thread were asking why add threads at all and I think they might be right... So im designing remixes of the FTN5 and Middleton Made PPv2 that interface directly with the 1022 and the Mark II as well. but this is great for testing form1 devices as they get approved.

https://preview.redd.it/foscg6awe6kh1.png?width=1680&format=png&auto=webp&s=b35e83226a74c5bf9a4ad6b8441010612f3789f3

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u/Hawkbait_3D — 1 day ago
▲ 61 r/3D2A

1022 3/4 -16 thread adapter

Hey everyone, I’ve been dipping my toe into the form 1 world and after getting approvals I’ve been very pleased with a few different designs for 22lr form 1 devices.

What I was missing was a way to install them on my ruger 1022s. All my current 1022s use the standard front sight post/bulge and I figured if my printer can do 3/4-16 threads and that’s what everyone does to run 1/2-28 to 3/4 anyway why not skip the middle man and just design an adapter that runs directly.

I have an order in for a new barrel with threads but if I can save some weight and some money that’s more subsonic 22s to fill magazines with.

A little design work and a few revisions and I’ve got a front collar that seats flat against the front post, matches the fillet on the factory sight post, prints 3/4-16 for connecting to pill poppers or ftn rimfires or any other 3/4 muzzle device I suppose and on the back a split collar with more 3/4 threads because the printer is good at those to clamp the barrel adapter into place.

EDIT : I uploaded the files to the Seas this afternoon. You can find me under HawkbaitDesign or look for the part directly under "1022 OEM Muzzle to 3/4-16 Threaded Adapter v03jr" If anyone wants to download a set and give them a try Id be interested to know what your printing on and if they fit for you. I tested on 3 1022s and a charger and they all worked great.

u/Hawkbait_3D — 3 days ago
▲ 6 r/3D2A

Multiple PA612-CF Parts at the same time?

Hey Everyone.

Im sorry if this is a Noob question. I received Multiple Form 1 Approvals and each of them will take the printer 1-2 days to run in PA612-CF with my adjusted filament profile and 300BLKFDEs Print Process.

My question is if the printer is moving that slowly and printing that hot is it possible to run multiple parts on the build plate at the same time or do they need to be printed 1 at a time to promote layer adhesion? Im assuming the layers are fully cooling by the time the hotend gets back for the next layer anyway but i wanted to be sure.

One the other end I was considering running some of these form 1 parts in .6 with a .24 layer height instead of .4 with a .16 just to help things move a little faster. I printed a handful of calibration prints in .4 and I plan on doing the same before I print in .6 but I wanted to see if anyone has a baseline for quality settings that play nice with .6.

thanks in advance.

https://preview.redd.it/l3bvl694wdjh1.png?width=849&format=png&auto=webp&s=95899402815190b2ec67ddd370077cfb32adc736

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u/Hawkbait_3D — 5 days ago
▲ 3 r/3D2A

11/16x24 for FTN5.1 Form1 Suppressors

Ive recently started requesting AFT Form 1 approvals for 3d printed silceners and getting back approvals, Im printing in Polymaker Fiberon PA612-CF and Ive had great performance in 22lr and 9mm with the PillPopperv2 and the FTN5 rimfire. I love that I can make my own form1s and the performance to price is incredible coming from the traditional suppressor world where a steel tube runs $800.

I got my approval for FTN5.1 Rifle Flow for horniday subsonic 45-70 to run in my Marlin 1985 trapper. It has an 11/16x24 barrrel thread and I cant find breek or KAK muzzle devices with the correct threading, even finding a long enough threaded adapter seems pretty impossible as the paperwork for the FTN reccoemnds at least 20mm of threaded length (25mm overall) for threaded inserts.

I have seen some other FTN models that use direct HUB adapters (1.375″x24) that look like they might be a good solution but I havent found any hub adapters that list the FTN5.1, only the FTN4 and directly thread into the body.

Im interesed to see if anyone has come up with a good solution for threads other than 1/2x28. Ive seen some 11/16x24 - 13/16x16 adapters but they all seem to short for this particular project.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/ga5b9qal7tih1.png?width=922&format=png&auto=webp&s=0aa0bf246370a8e9a91d2ad0af4cf3908ffb6499

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u/Hawkbait_3D — 8 days ago