u/Hawkbait_3D

Ive been getting a ton of questions about clamp on designs for silencers for all those guns out there that dont have threaded barrels. There are tons of cool silencer designs on the market but most of them rely on your factory barrel having 1/2-28 threads. Not eveyone has that but theres no reason that should stop you from owning a suppressor.

So heres what makes this one different, Its a really simple clamp on design anyone can easily modify in Tinkercad or Fusion by adding their barrel profile. It roughly based on the osprey design from silencerco but its designed to be printed at 45 degrees with no supports ( maybe a fin if people have issues printing at 45) Its overbuilt currently coming in at 250g of filament but Im not against making a lightweight version as well.

Its not sailing yet, but thats where I need yalls help, I want to add 5-10 common rifles muzzle profiles to the zip file for this silencer. If you have a rifle in 22lr that you think would look cool with this silencer or you dont have a threded barrel post exact measurements and well add it to the list. I already have it mocked up for a Ruger 1022

** EXACT Measurements matter, please measure the barrel diameter at the crown to the .0001 inch, then measure down the barrel by 2 inches exactly and take another measurement. Thats how well get the taper. If your rifle has a sight block lets measure that too how wid is the sight, how long is the sight and how tall is the sight and well get that in the top blocks as well.

Label your reply with the gun make/model its for and ill add it to the project file. Once i have 5-10 ill set it sailing.

This one’s new for me, I’ve been running PA612 on this nozzle for about two months. It’s handled very well on large multi day car parts prints as well as quick tools for the wood shop but it started ghost printing this evening and when I pulled it to have a look the nozzle section had completely left the heat brake.

I’ve got a stack of other biqu nozzles so I’ve got a fresh one in already, but I’ve never seen a nozzle. Leave the heat brake like that. Has anyone else ever experienced that?

Running a P2S with hardened extruder gears 300c on pa612-cf15.

I wanted a solid way to carry a proper tool kit in the back without taking up cargo space or having loose cases slide around. The factory cargo net holders are pretty thin so i removed them and used the same 10mm bolt to lock in the mounting palte. It uses the KNECT mounting tabs and clip to hold the kit in place.

In my opinion, the Klein KNECT system is one of the best compact tool kits for a vehicle, so I designed and 3D printed a custom bracket to lock it into the rear cargo panel. Printed in ASA CF to blend in with the factory interior trim. and ive been testing it all summer and its held up great.

Grabbed a second P2S to help with my small business. I print mostly car stuff but it was feeling like it was a work machine not my own so I grabbed a second P2S and now I have enough printer availavbility to play with all the cool models I see people posting.

I love the way my first P2S has been working over the last 5 months and Im sure the second one will be just as good.

Hey Everyone, I'm new to the 3D Form 1 game and I keep seeing people suggesting printing with 300BLKFDEs settings. When I downloaded the settings from the high seas it looks like the first layer is super conservative and th rest of the print has about a 30mm speed limit. That felt really slow given how capable our machines are these days and I dont like rules that i dont understand so I decided to put my money where my mouth was and bring out a set of Pill Popper remixes that I designed and a set of FTN5 slim 22lr form 1 devices to see how well they fared at different print speeds. All of my printed form1s have been with PA612-CF15

Heres the results ( and I know anecdote =/= data or proof) but I tested 3 6.5in remixed pill poppers in 9mm on 146gr winchester bulk flat nose wadcutter 9mm. I sot them on a Springfield Kuna with the stock threaded barrel using a 1/2-28 to 3/4-16 adapter and all 3 failed in about the same location, after the blast baffle and in the main baffle stack. I expected to see failures given the speed and power fo the 146gr wadcutters and each of them laster more than a few mags before they popped and sent the front ends downrange. I inspected the end caps for baffle strikes and none of them failed due to baffle strikesd that i could see.

I was able to get 71rd on the one printed at 30mms ( 300BlkFDE), 105rd on the 60mms and 96 on the one printed at 100mms. Im pretty sure the 100mms was bumping into my flow rate cap so I think it was running a little slower than 100 but the settings were 100mms at 11mm3s. Im not so vain as to say that the results disprove anything, but in my book they are telling me that the speed limit is like the speed limits on the highway, its a great recipe for very safe prints but its not adding any extra strength that a properly tuned profile and a12 hour anealing run at 95c and the correct very dry (~7%) filament cannot do at much faster speeds. From now On my profile is going to be 75mms at 300C because thats where my bambu P2S can still make the details look great and also saves me about 1/2 of the print time.

I also tested 3 FTN5 slims runnign the same 3 speeds and none of them failed, no sighns of fatigue or cracks or anything even printed at 100mms, the surface finish and the threads printing at 100mms werent perfect so ill probably cap everything at 75mms but for my money and time Im really satisfied with those results.

If anyone knows how to get ahold of 300BLKFDE Id love to collaborate on a new High speed profile for 500 and 600mms enclosed printers, i think we could be printing faster and still maintain the strength.

Ruger Mark II now with a custom designed 22LR silencer. Working wiht Grandpas old Ruger, I was looking for something to run 22lr 1040fps 40gr and to take the edge off in as small of a package as possible.

I designed a split collar locking system that clamps the barrel and the front sight block into a flat faced ring in the throat of the form1 device. The collar is split to allow it to get over the sight post and I designed a little tool to make install and removal easier. checked for concentricity with a go/no go rod and everything seems lined up/

The Form 1 device is based on a middleton Made Pill Popper, with the baffles from the 9mm version scaled down to .25 and the baffles adjusted in length to fit the space I had in my pistol case.

Testing this week, if it runs and it takes the crack off the top of supers or subs itll be on the seas by wednesday. and if its too loud Ill redesign based on a known functional can design and still release it this week with the colar system.

I just picked up a set of t096s and the sets come with twisted whip antennas and small lipo batteries. As I understand it a quality antenna goes a really long way especially if this is going to be my base node for testing.

I am pretty active in the racing drone and long range drone community and I have a few leftover tuned 915mhz antennas from an old Team Black Sheep transmitter and receiver set and I’m curious if anyone’s tried tuned pcb circuit antennas or if I should just pony up the extra $15 for a nice entry level 1/2wave?

Long term I’m planning to use one of them with my project nomad Ubuntu setup in an ammo can and I was looking for a compact entry level antenna to add to the set.

Also I’m planning to 3d print an enclosure for the t096 and I’m considering using TPU-GF, anyone have any data about the way TPU interacts with radio signals?

I love my 1895 Trapper and I love shooting big fast modern cartirdges but I recently got into 3D2A and Form 1 suppressors and I started playing with bigger bore stuff. I releod my 45-70 on a Lee loader and Ive got subsonics setup with 350gr barrys on trailboss powder running just over 1000fps. Chamber pressures are about half of the pressures on 300blk so i started with the dimensions, thicness and blast chamber from a 300BLK FTN device and modeled it up from there.

Hopefully Ill finish anealing this week and Ill get it moisture tempered and be able to test fire next week. For now I think it looks a little bit goofy and a little bit awesome hanging off the front of a gun thats been awesome for more than a century.

Hey everyone, I’ve been dipping my toe into the form 1 world and after getting approvals I’ve been very pleased with a few different designs for 22lr form 1 devices.

What I was missing was a way to install them on my ruger 1022s. All my current 1022s use the standard front sight post/bulge and I figured if my printer can do 3/4-16 threads and that’s what everyone does to run 1/2-28 to 3/4 anyway why not skip the middle man and just design an adapter that runs directly.

I have an order in for a new barrel with threads but if I can save some weight and some money that’s more subsonic 22s to fill magazines with.

A little design work and a few revisions and I’ve got a front collar that seats flat against the front post, matches the fillet on the factory sight post, prints 3/4-16 for connecting to pill poppers or ftn rimfires or any other 3/4 muzzle device I suppose and on the back a split collar with more 3/4 threads because the printer is good at those to clamp the barrel adapter into place.

EDIT : I uploaded the files to the Seas this afternoon. You can find me under HawkbaitDesign or look for the part directly under "1022 OEM Muzzle to 3/4-16 Threaded Adapter v03jr" If anyone wants to download a set and give them a try Id be interested to know what your printing on and if they fit for you. I tested on 3 1022s and a charger and they all worked great.