Latest TVOS developer beta has hi-res lossless option
Up to 24/192 but 24/96 is plenty. tvOS 27
🤞
Up to 24/192 but 24/96 is plenty. tvOS 27
🤞
Don’t shoot the messenger.
Pretty rare bunch. My concern is this list becoming larger over the next decade.
I was surprised by this one. Is it a common test track? or at least an impress your friends track?
https://music.apple.com/us/album/rain-man-original-motion-picture-soundtrack/724500811
(see screen shot) For classical and Jazz rips, this can be a big problem but, for a pop album? I just do not get what Apple is thinking letting this happen uncorrected for, a decade now? At least? (Rhetorically… we know, they will NEVER fix it. 😭)
I am ripping this for a friend…
I inherited a brokerage account 10 years ago. But I was given bad advice and now it has a bunch of duplications and other things going on but, is all low cost index funds and low cost index ETFs. All stock funds and one stock I bought (keeping it).
But my own Rollover (entirely bonds) and my Roth (also entirely low cost stock ETFs or funds) are all set up great. So rebalancing is a problem. I have no where to go.
I have treated all these separate accounts as one single, unified portfolio. So brokerage is all low cost index stock, Rollover is all low cost bonds, Roth is all low cost index funds.
I asked AI about this and, this is the advice AI (in bold) gave me on what to do with this crazy stock market (what say the humans? Good or bad advice?):
>“When a taxable brokerage account dwarfs your tax-sheltered accounts, global rebalancing via percentage targets becomes mathematically impossible without triggering a tax bill. The tax-advantaged space simply lacks the capacity to move the needle. (I knew this!)
>In this scenario, you have four practical options to manage the asset drift.
>1. Shift from Percentages to "Years of Living Expenses"
Instead of forcing an arbitrary global asset ratio (like 60% stocks / 40% bonds) across your entire net worth, evaluate your fixed income solely by time.
>Calculate your exact annual cash flow needs to bridge the gap until your Social Security kicks in at age 70. (With Trump inflation, this is very hard to do.)
>Determine how many years of spending your total fixed-income holdings can cover.
>If your tax-sheltered bonds and cash cover 3 to 5 years of living expenses, you have a sufficient structural moat. You do not need to sell stocks in the brokerage account to satisfy a textbook percentage, because you will not need to touch those equities during a market downturn anyway.
>2. Cherry-Pick High-Basis Tax Lots (HIFO)
If you determine that your global equity risk is genuinely too high and you must sell stocks in the brokerage account, do not sell blindly.
>Use Specific Identification to view individual tax lots rather than the average cost basis.
>Even in a prolonged bull market, specific shares acquired over the last 1–2 years (via manual investments or past dividend reinvestments) will have a much higher cost basis.
>Selling only these specific high-basis lots minimizes the realized capital gains and prevents a significant spike in your adjusted gross income (AGI). (I have done this and will year to year but, it is a small dent and a big PITA.)
>3. Accept the Drift
When a brokerage account grows so large that it dominates your net worth, your financial reality changes. If your nest egg has grown significantly larger than what is actually required to fund your lifestyle, your mathematical ability to absorb risk has increased. You can choose to alter your target framework and let the portfolio run equity-heavy, knowing that a major market correction would still leave your core retirement secure.” This, is what I have been doing but, as far as if it is my reality, the line lead right back to 1 and 2 on this list. TBD and a PITA
This might be useful.
I finally got the adage: It is not about timing the market at all but time in the market.
Every single 16 year old kid earning their first paycheck needs to put $20 a month in a Roth total stock market ETF right now! Then increase it as pay goes up. Then matching and max the Roth.
Thank me in 30 years by donating a nice lump from your immense fortune to a medical research charity.
Well, I knew this but, it hurts.
I dropped cable for OTA and streaming services about 20 years ago.
Now I use kanopy for free. Hoopla is other option. Those would be from your local library or shared state inter library system.
Xfinity gave out free Peacock Premium recently to internet customers. (Can’t write anything about that brand and it not sound dirty or wrong. LOL) Maybe still available?
I also get another service free through a music streaming deal I got, which is also a deal.
There is also free PBS app or donate for a bit more rerun and early preview options.
I also ended up with Starz for 6 months. It was about $1-2 a month. But, I cannot recommend it except one of these deals they have a few times a year if there is a show you want on it.
So all that for about $11 a month. However, I wanted to catch up on HBO, Hulu, Disney shows so, got that bundle deal for a few months. Ending it this month, June. But, dunno, that is not a bad bundle. TBD.
There is only one service that never has sales I have not returned to in years: Netflix. Which is too bad as, I was an original DVD subscriber and very early streamer. Then, prices shot up, continued to shoot up every year and, I left and stayed away.
If TCM was a streaming service, I’d pay for it. HBO kind of has it, well hidden but, it just does not cut the mustard.
I guess the trick is to “regulate“ your services to meet your interests but always keeping price and need in mind. Use your calendar to remind you when to cancel. Don’t beat yourself up if you miss a cancel by date. Kill it when you do the next month. Jam in a movie or two and a show.
I’m never returning to Prime or Paramount (and removed CBS from my OTA channel guide). So this saves a bunch of money forever now. Thanks lunatic billionaires for saving me money!