u/I_NvrChkThis

Currently sitting in first class on a flight from Raleigh to Seattle. I had my UTR plugged into power and sitting on the center armrest, face-up, during boarding so that my friend and I could log onto it once on-board wifi was turned on. A stewardess noticed it and asked if it was a power bank. I said no. So she asked what it was and I knew we were headed for trouble...if nothing else, because I knew she was pretty unlikely to know what a travel router is. 🤷 She asked if it was a hotspot and I said, "yeah, basically...but it doesn't have cellular, nor a battery." She said she's never seen a device that looked like it and asked if I had used it on other flights, to which I said yes (I had used it on the Alaska flight to Raleigh). She thought about it for a moment and said she'd have to check with the other stewardess and her manual to see if such a thing was in there and allowed or not. Well, I knew this was not going to go the way it should. haha. Eventually she came back land told me that since it wasn't listed in the manual as "allowed" it becomes "not allowed" and would I mind not using it. Obviously I agreed and stuck it in my bag. It certainly isn't nearly important enough to try to argue the point.

10 minutes later we were in the air, wifi had turned on, and I duly connected my phone and then turned on it's hotspot to share that connection. 😛

So I guess the moral of the story is to wait until you are in the air to bring out your travel router...she probably wouldn't have given it a second glance then. And maybe not make super obvious and tuck it next to you in your seat.

TL;DR the spindle in a new box of UI Outdoor cable just arrived smashed...so the spool doesn't exactly unspool. Do I whine? Or am I already whining? 😬🤷🤦‍♂️

So this is probably a bit inane, but I just received a box of UI Outdoor cable and as far as the cable goes, no issues, but somehow inside the box one side of the spool support broke off, so basically it's supported only on one side. All the cardboard boxes are fine, with no obvious damage, but when I first picked it up I could hear stuff ratting inside. I opened the spool box and the part that goes into the hole of the spool on one side had broken into pieces, which was what was rattling inside. Obviously the spool no longer un-spools without a fair amount of effort (and judicious use of a foot to hold the box) as it just jams, for lack of a better term. I'm guessing the box must have dropped flat faced and the weight broke the plastic.

Anyway, my question is this: Should I bring this up with UI? I mean the cable is obviously fine, but it's going to be a major PITA to pull, especially by myself.

If I was installing this at my home I guess I could build a stand to hold the spool, but unfortunately I'm going to be installing this at a site multiple states away, so resources for that are minimal and unknown. I'm sure they sell spool holders but this project (which is all being donated by me) is already a bit beyond it's budget and I still don't have the cameras for it, plus another thing would just take up more space in the car.

[This is a favor to a charity organization. I'm driving, and space in the car will be at a premium as my dog is coming along so the back seat will not be available, plus there's also a bunch of other UI gear and my tools in the trunk]

So do I just suck it up and deal with the first-world problem? Of do I see if UI would do anything about it? I guess the only thing they could do is send another box, it's not like they have the plastic spool support part lying around to send out.

I'm guessing this will be fine, but just in case...

So I'm helping someone put in a new Unifi network. I already have one at home (UDR7, switches, APs, etc). I want to assemble and configure the hardware at my place before it goes with me, by car, multiple states away to be installed...so basically same as a home lab. As the new site will, for all intents and purposed, need internet access to configure and test properly, is there any problem connecting a second gateway (UCG-Fiber) to my existing LAN and creating the second site? Can I do a basic WAN into LAN connection without any big conflicts, making sure to run them on different IP ranges? I know things on the second site LAN will be double-natted, but that doesn't seem like an issue, and I'm not worried about AP interference and all that, just if the two sites conflict in any way. I'm not planning on needing devices to talk to other devices across sites.

So the OSI model and routing in general make my head hurt, which is odd as I'm pretty technically minded and very good at understanding how things work...maybe it's related to having hard-core aphantasia. Anyway....

So let's say I have a network with a UCG Fiber, a Switch Flex 2.5, a UNVR instant, and a few cameras. The Flex is connected to the Fiber, the UNVR Instant is connected to the Switch Flex, and the cameras connected to the UNVR Instant, all on the default VLAN. My question is: does all traffic on the LAN route back through to the Gateway Fiber? IOW does traffic from the camera have to route through the UNVR Instant, to the Flex 2.5, to the Gateway Fiber and then get routed back through the Switch Flex before finally ending up at the UNVR that the cameras were directly connected to in the first place? Or would that only happen if the cameras were on a different VLAN than the NVR for some (weird) reason?

I guess this is a bit of a unique example, as most NVRs don't have switches attached, but it could be any resources connected to the two switches. Now if it's the different VLANs that would cause that long route, does that mean running multiple VLANs heavily increases raw network traffic significantly due to everything getting sent back to the gateway/router?

Quick question: I assume a Could Gateway Fiber can use a 512GB SSD, or does it need to be 1TB minimum for some reason? Long story short...looking at getting one, but with the prices at current levels will be buying it without a drive. I have Samsung 960 EVO 512GB SSD (with VERY low TB written) that I can spare for this use, as even buying a 1TB SSD myself is a bit out of the budget at the moment.

I'll only be running 1 cam to start, prob a G5, and maybe adding one or two more in the future, likely still G5s. I don't need super long retention or anything, really just real-time is actually almost enough. If we go to more cams we'd go to a separate UI NVR anyway and get away from needing to use an SSD, not that HDs don't have crazy prices too.

Thanks

https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/2017-hyundai-veloster-turbo-first-test-review

So here's a weird and semi-interesting theory. I think the car used for this review in Motor Trend is actually my car, not that it really matters, but is kind of cool I guess. I doubt there's any easy way to prove it, but here's why I think it is.

First, obviously, my car is exactly the same model and options as the test car...not that there were many options, but color being the most variable. I have no idea how many '17 VTs with the Tech Package and the 6MT in Vitamin C were sold. Note, in the pic below of my car,I had switched the wheels with the ones from my 2012 NAV, which I like better. The car originally had the factory 18" rims as shown in the reviews (and now on my 2012).

https://preview.redd.it/dq642apkz2bh1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec2f8531cb01c9561695d160b12ae53ac5260bb9

Next, my car has a kind of weird CarFax ownership history. I noticed it when I bought it, but couldn't really figure out what the deal was and it wasn't something that was concerning to me then. The car was shipped to the US on 8/22/16. It was first titled on 2/19/18 and listed as a Corporate Fleet vehicle....but listed as only 12 miles on the odometer...a year and a half later. And this title was done at the Fountain Valley DMV, which is the same city Hyundai America is located in! The VT was then sold at auction two months later 4/24/18 with 10,630 miles(!!), and listed as a "Manufacturer Vehicle", IOW, Hyundai Corp owned it.

Then it went into dealer inventory and took a few months to sell to it's next real owner, who was the only other owner until I bought it.. Also of note is that the vehicle had three maintenance services performed at a dealership during the 18 month period before it had that first title issued.

I am fully aware that dealers allow certain employees to use cars for personal use before they're sold (I have friends in the car biz), sometimes for extended periods. But an orange, 6-speed manual hatch like a VT seems an unlikely choice to pick as a daily driver. Also, I don't think those are listed as "manufacturer" vehicles when finally sold. I also am quite aware that it can take a while to sell a metallic orange, 3-door, manual transmission hatchback. 😛

Anyway, just thought I'd share. What do you think??

So am I understanding this correctly? For any devices on a LAN port that basically aren't switches or some kind of bridging device, I should set the port to Edge and turn on BPDU Guard? Because these are end devices...end of a branch? I think all the ports except one or two remain consistent, but those one or two may change devices (different notebooks plugged in, for instance, but always "end" devices).

Bonus questions: Also, I assume I can turn of LLDP-MED as I have no VoIP phones? What about Non-STP Loop Protection?

U7 Outdoor (Pro) and trees. Your experience regarding coverage? Good? Terrible? Better/Worse than what one would expect? Tree-WiFi apocalypse?

I fully understand that when I say "trees" it is a highly variable element as every tree is different, the size, distance, density, wet leave, dry leaves, etc....I'm just looking for generalizations with maybe some rough data. My understanding is that the U& Outdoors are really good at maintaining decent signal at larger than expected distances. I'm just an trying to get some idea, roughly, how bad a tree in the way is affecting things. I know there's the Design Center, and I've played with that, but I've also been seeing that it can be very conservative with a U7 Outdoor's real-world effective range. I know rained on wet leaves will make a significant difference compared to nice dry ones. I'm not trying to reach 500' or anything, but probably in the 100 range...maybe 150', and just looking for reasonable connection, not 500 mbs or anything. 🤷‍♂️

Any real-world input would be appreciated. Maybe something like:

• Large (oak) tree, tons of leaves, still got reasonable wifi to my phone (approx) feet away"
• Medium sized maple, couldn't connect for shit on other side from 40' away from AP.

TL;DR Can I use an outdoor mounted AC Mesh as a bridge and attach a switch to it on the inside of a metal building, or is this dumb? OR, what about a Device Bridge (not Pro) mounted inside, with external antenna on the outside? Connectivity outside should be excellent.

So I'm helping someone figure out how to get wifi across a large portion of a large dog rescue, so sort of like a small farm I guess. The property is pretty good size, but 100% coverage isn't the goal. They now have fiber to the main house. I have most stuff figured out, I think, and may have some other questions in the future, but the main one I have now is dealing with a couple metal buildings, most of which aren't super far from the main house (like about 100' max). If it matters, we will probably be VLANs, captive portal, whatnot, for a segregated Guest Network across the site for visitors (maybe pre-shared keys?).

I'm planning on using 1, maybe 2, U7 Outdoor (maybe Pros) that will be mounted up reasonably high on a private power pole, and the second one, if needed, likely on a metal TV antenna tower. Obviously wifi won't penetrate into the metal outbuildings. I know I can use a Device Bridge Pro on the outside wall and wire to a hub and AP on the inside. (It would have line-of-sight to the U7 Outdoor) But my question, finally, is: could I use an AC Mesh instead? Can I mount it on the outside and have the ethernet port connect to a switch inside the building, which then has an AP attached, and maybe future cameras? Or is this just dumb? I don't really need the AC Mesh to create it's own network outside, as the U7 Outdoor will cover that easily, but I guess I can't turn that off. I know it's only $100 difference, but if there's a couple buildings we end up doing this it's maybe $3-400, and for a rescue, that's a fair amount of money if we don't need to spend it. Thinking about it more, I'm leaning towards dumb. LOL

Ooorrrr, I also just noticed that the regular Device Bridge has an external antenna connector! Can I just mount that on the inside wall and run the cable through the wall to mount an external antenna on the outside of the building, then hook up a small switch and AP?? We don't need much in that building as it's a kennel building, but they would eventually like to put a cam or two in there, and they do try to live-stream video inside for fundraising, which obviously currently doesn't really work, so wifi inside would be nice. Is there some downside to this?

I, and 150 rescue doggos, thank you for your help. 🐺🐺

Sort of a basic noob question here....

So am I better off setting my UDR7 to be the DNS server pushed to clients via DHCP (Auto DNS Server on for the Network) which then relays to the servers listed in WAN DNS settings...or r should I turn that off and populate the DNS server entries we use there, which obviously then get pushed directly to the clients and they do DNS directly to the servers on the list? Either way I have the Auto DNS Server setting for the WAN set OFF and populated with Cloudflare/Google DNS servers as we don't want to use the Comcast ones.

This is just a home network and we have pretty simple needs, network-wise. We don't run any special local DNS stuff or anything, there's only two of us, though we have a lot of client devices for our size, with lots of IoT, and we're both pretty tech-oriented so we aren't hyper security issue focused. So is there some realistic advantage the using the UDR as a DNS relay provides? Does it give me more insight into traffic on the network maybe?

This is what you have been looking for folks...at least those of you who do any work with your own cars.

LEMON Manuals is a new source for tons of FREE factory service manuals for most mainstream cars...sorry, none seem available for helping you change the spark plugs on the F50 sitting in your garage folks. 😛 These are the real deal (at least what I've check out)...hyperlinked, wiring diagrams, and downloadable zip file for local use. This is built off the previous work of CHARM manuals, but has a much larger database (it incorporates the CHARM stuff and uses their formatting style). They have every year and trim level of Veloster (though obviously they are essentially the same for each generation).

https://lemon-manuals.la/Hyundai/

You can even download a torrent of the entire 1.1 TB database of every manual thy have.