hey folks,
wasn’t climbing for two years (was lvl 5 to 6) and will get back to it in 3 month. Hence I want to recover my finger strength now already. I know that my fingers tend to react bad to over training, that’s why I’m doing Abrahangs / nohangs (with a measuring setup on my desk). (Background is that I’ll have a surgery soon and then get back to bouldering/climbing) I want to share my training plan and progress to stay motivated. And lastly, i’m not obsessing with exact percentages because I have too much free time, but because I kind of have to - since I’m scared of injuries.
The Setup:
- % (see below) is based on my known max load per combo
- I will do 2 sessions a day, 6 hours break in between (according to feedback I got here and Emil's video)
The Session:
Set 1 - open ‐ 20mm - 10 sec break
- index + middle : 40% for 10 sec
- middle + ring : 40% for 10 sec
- middle + ring + pinky : 36 % for 10 sec
- index + middle + ring + pinky : 32% for 10 sec
beak 1 min
Set 2 - half crimp ‐ 15mm - 10 sec break
- index + middle : 40% for 10 sec
- middle + ring : 40% for 10 sec
- middle + ring + pinky : 36 % for 10 sec
- index + middle + ring + pinky : 32% for 10 sec
More info:
- Avoiding injuries means staying flexible. So when I feel that anything starts hurting, I will reduce training load progressively (but don’t stop training)
- I trained with a similar protocol 3 years ago already ]* Currently, my finger strength is terrible, but fingers are all healthy :)
Questions to the people who know from science or experience.
- Is 6 seconds load time too short?
- changed to 10 seconds according to feedback
- Is the 15mm edge all I need?
- feedback: variation seems better -> added 20mm in second set
- Is it useless to train 3 times a day?
- feedback: 2 times is enough with 6h break
- Is 40% of my max load ok for good gains?
- feedback: yes
- Since I’m training at my desk (Where I have to stay due to meetings), I have a setup where I pull - with my arm - at the back edge of the table (kind of). So basically the force I’m applying is not my bodyweight, but whatever my arm can pull. I image that’s not bad because I train the arm at the same time. Any objections to that?
- still open question
And lastly, what are the rules of this place? Can I update my progress here regularly?
Would be awesome to share my progress until I’m back to climbing!
Best, Matthes