rebuilding parts of my 1970 Eggharbor 37 hull
Black is Chlorinated rubber pool paint INSL-X diluted 10% with xylene for better penetration into wood. In my 2nd year now of work on the hull.
I have done one side, now working on replacing the deep framing on this side. I already repaired every chine frame curve by epoxying crescent shaped pieces to the old frames.
I also had to rebuild entire lower half of the skeg keel due to worm damage...
Frames epoxied with milled fibers and sanded smooth with 40 grit is a great surface for this paint.
Backing crescents are visible. You know there is no good way to fix this style hull except this.
All the new frame wood is 2.5 CCA treated 2 inch wide marine dock construction boards, ripped into framing thickness from genuine size 2"x8" SYP, not that typical downsized wood, really nice timber. Keel is white oak as are the floors (joists) which sit on top of the frames. I was able to keep all the other parts of the old oak bent frames.
Used the CCA wood also for the worm shoe. I used a mix of large white oak timbers and CCA wood for repairing the skeg. It is all glued and 1/2" wide bronze bolted in place, and I added more bolts too.
I have more pics here. Have owned this since 1998, and still learning. This re-screw am doing different, using 3" long 316 SS deck screws. Plugging bung holes with poplar dowels cut off and glued in, and not burying screw heads. Screws hold full thickness of planks, frames ang go into the oak floors above the frames. I will put West Marine CPP bottom paint diluted with xylene to bite into the chlorinate rubber paint. I am very impressed with that paint.
All seams I simply clear out any old caulking and use Great Stuff closed cell gaps and cracks foam, seals and acts like a compressible gasket.
The hull will be coated in 1/8" thick layer of 5200 then bottom paint.