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Du Bourg, in the city of Biel, is run by four friends who first met while working together at a previous restaurant. It had already been a successful Michelin-starred restaurant under its former owners, but the current team took over in late spring last year and managed to retain the star only a few months later. (Picture 1)
Their cooking is clearly influenced by Japanese techniques, but I would describe it primarily as seasonal market cuisine—one of my favourite styles of cooking. They change at least two courses every month and rely heavily on local, seasonal ingredients, complemented by preserved and fermented produce from earlier seasons.
After hearing nothing but praise throughout last year (both from colleagues and reviews), I booked a table shortly before the Michelin ceremony and ended up dining there shortly after they officially became the newest Michelin-starred restaurant in the Canton of Bern.
I was hooked immediately.
Not just because of the food, but because of the hospitality. They let me taste both the alcoholic and the non-alcoholic pairing before ordering, encouraged me to choose whichever I preferred—and then topped up the other glass anyway. I've never experienced that level of generosity at any other Swiss restaurant.
So I knew I had to come back. This Friday was my last day at work before a few weeks off, so I decided to celebrate at Du Bourg. Since my first visit had been during late autumn and early winter, I wanted to experience the complete opposite, making early July feel like the perfect time to return.
One detail I particularly enjoy: they don't reveal the menu when you book. Once you're seated, you'll find an envelope on the table. You can either open it or keep it closed and enjoy the meal as a complete surprise. Normally I'm not a huge fan of mystery menus, but this concept works perfectly for me—I can know what's coming if I want to, but I don't have to. (Picture 2)
The amuse-bouches were served outside, in the middle of Biel's beautiful old town, together with a glass of sparkling wine. They consisted of a sweet potato taco filled with smoked trout, a cucumber and silken tofu tartelette and a smooth little corn ball. A wonderful balance of saltiness, acidity and texture and the perfect way to begin the evening (Picture 3).
Back inside came what they call their bread and butter course, although it isn't a traditional one. Since the restaurant intentionally avoids serving lots of starches or carbohydrate-heavy side dishes, you're encouraged to use the wonderfully buttery, cloud-like brioche throughout the meal instead. Last year the butter was browned butter topped with calamansi juice. This time it appeared in the shape of a rose, on top as a browned butter, on the bottom mixed with salad and finished with cucumber gazpacho, rose powder and rose petals (Pictures 4-5).
The first proper course followed: a rose assembled from pickled vegetables, fruit and pikeperch. The fish was wrapped in a leaf of algae, before becoming the centrepiece of the rose, accompanied by kohlrabi and melon and finished with a buttermilk-miso sauce.
Over the past two years I've become accustomed to Switzerland's almost obligatory opening course of raw fish, vegetables and plenty of acidity. This, however, may have been my favourite version so far. Yes, there was plenty of acidity, but the miso contributed an almost equal amount of savouriness, creating exactly the kind of balance I love (Picture 6).
Next came my favourite course of the evening: cauliflower in several variations, enhanced with koji, sauerkraut and sansho, accompanied by a sauerkraut infused beurre blanc.
The best cauliflower dish I've had in months—and considering how much cauliflower I cook and eat, that's saying something. I chose the non-alcoholic pairing, which incorporated caramel and - once again - sauerkraut. Surprisingly, it worked beautifully with the dish (Picture 7).
The third course was a chawanmushi served with vegetarian caviar made from seeds and radish, cherry tomatoes (which are only truly seasonal outdoors for a very short time in Switzerland) and an intense tomato consommé.
The consommé was the real star here: intensely savoury, deeply umami and something I immediately wanted another bowl of. The egg custard was just enough present without disappearing behind the tomatoes, although I wouldn't have minded just a little more of it. The vegetarian caviar added a welcome textural contrast (Picture 8).
Before moving on to the main course, one thing stood out to me: I honestly enjoyed every dish that evening, but the two vegetable-focused courses were easily my favourites. Somehow, that tends to happen whenever I'm eating at restaurants that truly embrace market cuisine.
The main course featured Limousin entrecôte topped with artichoke purée and a small herb salad, accompanied by grilled artichokes, a rich jus, beurre noisette and wild garlic oil.
Everything came together beautifully. The beef was cooked to a perfect medium-rare, and the three sauces never competed with one another but instead highlighted both the meat and the artichokes. I was especially impressed by the wild garlic oil, which remained remarkably intense despite wild garlic season having ended well over a month ago (Picture 9).
I skipped the cheese course—even though I know they usually put a great deal of thought into it—because I really wanted to experience both dessert courses.
The first dessert featured Japanese milk bread (shokupan), citrus fruits, kombu, green apple and an apple sorbet. With its combination of bright acidity, mellowed sweetness and lingering savoury notes, it created a perfect bridge between the savoury part of the menu and the desserts. I didn't miss the cheese course at all (Pictures 10-11).
The second dessert revolved around strawberries: strawberry sorbet, yoghurt, macerated strawberries, sunflower seeds and a delicate meringue topped with roasted fennel seeds. I couldn't decide between the Riesling and the rhubarb-based non-alcoholic pairing, so I ordered both. They each worked beautifully, although the rhubarb pairing and the roasted fennel seeds were particularly outstanding. The fennel added an unexpected but brilliant layer to the dessert (Pictures 12-13).
A fruit jelly, a praline and homemade marshmallows brought the evening to a close (Picture 14).
As I mentioned earlier, I was able to taste both the alcoholic and the non-alcoholic pairing with almost every course. Even after I had made my choice, they often poured me a little of the other beverage as well.
Despite operating with only two people in the kitchen and two in front of house, they always found time to chat, answer questions and genuinely connect with their guests. They go for a first-name basis immediately, creating an atmosphere that feels warm and personal.
Combine that hospitality with outstanding food and beverages, the enthusiasm of four young owners and one more important detail: this is probably one of the best-value Michelin-starred restaurants in Switzerland.
Six courses cost 156 Swiss francs (around 195 US dollars), while the non-alcoholic pairing is only 11 francs per course and the alcoholic pairing 16.
So if you ever find yourself in Switzerland and are looking for a memorable fine dining experience, I can wholeheartedly recommend Du Bourg and its wonderful young team.