A question we see regularly: "My 200W panel is only putting out 130W. Is something wrong?" In almost every case, nothing is wrong. The rated wattage on a solar panel is a lab number, not a field number.

Understanding why they differ, and what actually drives real-world output, means you can get close to the rated figure when conditions allow and know what to expect when they do not.

What rated wattage actually means

Panel wattage is measured under Standard Test Conditions (STC): a panel temperature of exactly 25 degrees Celsius, an irradiance of exactly 1,000 watts per square metre, and a specific light spectrum called AM1.5. These conditions exist briefly in controlled testing environments. They almost never exist simultaneously in the field.

Real sun is variable in intensity and angle. Real panels heat up in direct sun. Real air has haze, humidity, and particulates. The gap between rated and real output is not a defect. It is the expected difference between a controlled lab standard and the actual world.

As a rough benchmark: 70 to 85 percent of rated output in clear, direct sun with good placement is normal and healthy. A 200W panel producing 140 to 170W on a clear afternoon is performing correctly. Consistently below 60 percent under clear skies with ideal placement is worth investigating.

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The main reasons output falls short

1.Panel temperature

This is the most counterintuitive factor and one of the most significant. Solar cells lose efficiency as they heat up. The rate of loss varies by panel type, but a typical figure is around 0.3 to 0.5 percent of rated output per degree above 25 degrees Celsius.

A panel sitting in direct August sun can reach 60 to 70 degrees Celsius on its surface, even in moderate ambient temperatures. At 65 degrees, that is 40 degrees above the STC reference, which translates to a 12 to 20 percent reduction in output before any other factor is considered. A cool, clear March morning with the same irradiance will often produce more than a hot July afternoon.

What you can do: keep air flowing underneath the panel rather than laying it flat against a dark or heat-absorbing surface. Even a few centimetres of clearance makes quite a difference!

2.Irradiance and atmospheric conditions

Irradiance (the intensity of sunlight reaching the panel) drops whenever light has to travel through more atmosphere. This happens at low sun angles (early morning, late afternoon, winter), on hazy days, through thin cloud, and at high humidity. A panel in hazy summer air at a low sun angle might be receiving 600 to 700 watts per square metre rather than the 1,000W assumed in STC. Output scales with irradiance, so 70 percent of full sun gives roughly 70 percent of rated output, all else being equal.

What you can do: position panels to capture the midday window when the sun is highest and irradiance is closest to peak. Track the sun manually if you are in a stationary setup for a full day.

3.Angle and orientation

A panel perpendicular to incoming sunlight captures the maximum available irradiance. As the angle between panel and sun increases, the effective collection area shrinks. A panel that is 30 degrees off-perpendicular captures noticeably less than one that is directly facing the sun.

In the northern hemisphere, panels facing south at an angle roughly matching local latitude capture the most energy across the year. Flat horizontal panels lose the morning and afternoon contribution significantly. East or west-facing panels miss half the day.

What you can do: even tilting a flat panel a few degrees toward the sun makes a measurable difference. This is one of the easiest adjustments with one of the higher payoffs.

4.Partial shading

This is the most damaging factor relative to its apparent size. Solar panels are made up of cells wired in series. When one cell is shaded, it acts as a resistance in the circuit, forcing the other cells to work against it. The result is that shading 10 percent of a panel's surface can reduce output by 50 percent or more, depending on panel design and bypass diode configuration.

Common culprits: tree branches that only partially cross the panel, overhead wires, a neighbouring panel's edge at low sun angles, and objects on nearby rooftops. Early morning and late afternoon are when objects that seem clear at noon cast shadows across panels.

What you can do: map shade across a full day before committing to panel placement, not just at midday. Move panels to positions where they are completely clear during the peak three to four hour window.

5.Dust, dirt, and debris

A layer of dust across a panel's surface reduces the light reaching the cells. The effect is proportional to accumulation and tends to be gradual enough that people do not notice it until output has dropped meaningfully. In dry or dusty environments, a build-up over a few weeks can account for five to ten percent of lost output.

What you can do: wipe panels with a damp cloth periodically. More frequently in dusty conditions or after pollen season. No special products needed.

6.Cable length and resistance

Electricity loses energy as heat when travelling through resistance. Longer cables between panels and unit mean more resistance, which means more energy lost in the cable rather than reaching the battery. This is usually a small factor for typical portable setups but becomes relevant for fixed installations with long runs.

What you can do: use the shortest practical cable run and ensure connections are clean and fully seated. If running a long distance, using panels in series (higher voltage, lower current) reduces resistive losses compared to parallel at lower voltage.

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What normal looks like by season

Output varies significantly through the year, even with identical panel placement. At 40 degrees north latitude, peak summer irradiance is roughly double winter peak irradiance, and daily sun hours roughly triple. A system sized for winter minimums will produce well above average in summer. A system sized for summer peaks will fall significantly short in winter without additional panels or a reduced load expectation.

If your system is underperforming against summer expectations in winter, this is normal. If it is underperforming against the same month last year, check for increased shading from grown vegetation, accumulated soiling, or a damaged connection.

A quick diagnostic checklist

If output seems low and conditions are clear:

1. Check panel temperature. Is the surface hot to touch? Air circulation under the panel will help.
2. Check angle. Is the panel facing roughly toward the sun? Even a rough re-aim makes a difference.
3. Check for shade. Walk around the panel and look from below at every angle. Something you cannot see from above may be casting a shadow.
4. Check cleanliness. A wipe may recover several percent of lost output.
5. Check connections. Ensure solar input connectors are fully clicked in and undamaged.
6. Check the unit's input display. Compare current input watts against rated panel wattage and expected conditions. If input is near zero with clear connections and full sun, the cable or connector may be the issue.

Post your numbers below

If you are seeing output that does not match what you expect and the checklist above does not explain it, post your panel model, unit model, conditions, and the wattage reading you are seeing. We will help you diagnose it.

Jackery Team

We run a program called Jackery Stories: real accounts from people who use Jackery in their daily lives, written up in full.
Campers, van lifers, homeowners navigating outages, off-grid property owners, remote workers, and everyone in between.
We're sharing them here so this community has somewhere to read and discuss stories that matter to you.

If you have a story worth telling, we would love to hear it. You can submit at jackery.com/pages/jackery-stories, and if we feature yours, we will work with you to write it up properly.

Todays story comes from Sébastien Bouffard, a mechanical engineer from Montreal, Canada, who has spent more than twenty years working in gas turbine power generation. For him, power isn't simply about electricity, it's about reliability. That engineering mindset eventually inspired him to rethink how he powers both his off-grid cabin and his home.

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You can learn more about his story here: https://www.jackery.com/pages/the-engineer-who-chose-silence

How to figure out how much power your appliances actually use (and why it matters for backup power)

The most common question people have when shopping for backup power is a simple one: will this run my appliance? The answer depends on how much power it draws, and that number is more useful to know than the capacity of any specific product.

This is a practical guide to understanding power consumption: what the numbers mean, how to find them for your specific devices, and how to use that information to make a confident decision about backup power capacity.

The two numbers you need to understand

Watts measure how much power a device is drawing at a given moment. Think of it like the speed a car is travelling. A device drawing 200W is using power at a rate of 200 watts.

Watt-hours measure how much energy has been used over time. If that 200W device runs for five hours, it has consumed 1,000 watt-hours, or 1 kilowatt-hour (kWh). Kilowatt-hours are what your electricity bill charges you for.

When you look at a backup power station's capacity, it's listed in watt-hours (Wh). A station with 2,048Wh can theoretically deliver 2,048 watts for one hour, or 200 watts for about ten hours, or any combination that adds up to 2,048. Real-world performance is slightly lower due to conversion efficiency, typically around 85-90%, so it's worth factoring in a 10-15% buffer when calculating.

Running watts vs. startup surge

This is the part that catches people out most often. Devices with motors and compressors, including refrigerators, air conditioners, sump pumps, and washing machines, require significantly more power to start than to run. This spike is called the startup surge or peak watts, and it can be two to three times the running wattage, lasting only a fraction of a second but real enough to trip a circuit.

When choosing a backup power station, you need to verify that its peak output rating covers the startup surge of the highest-draw appliance you plan to run, not just the running wattage. The unit's rated output (continuous watts) handles the running load; its peak or surge rating handles the startup spike. Check both before assuming compatibility.

Wattage reference table: common household appliances

Appliance	Approximate Wattage
Refrigerator (modern, mid-size)	100-200W running / 400-600W startup surge
Chest freezer	30-100W running / 200-400W startup surge
WiFi router	5-20W
LED light bulb	8-15W
Laptop	45-100W
Phone charger	10-25W
TV (50 inch, LED)	70-150W
Box fan	40-100W
CPAP (without heated humidifier)	30-60W
CPAP (with heated humidifier)	100-200W
Space heater (small)	750-1500W
Microwave	600-1200W
Coffee maker	600-1200W
Electric kettle	1000-1500W
Sump pump	300-800W running / up to 1300W startup
Window AC unit (small)	500-1500W running / up to 2200W startup
Garage door opener	300-500W running / up to 800W startup

These figures are averages. Older appliances often draw more than newer equivalents. High-efficiency models often draw less. The numbers above are a starting point, not a substitute for checking your specific devices.

How to find the actual wattage of your devices

The label method: Most appliances have a compliance label, usually on the back or bottom, that lists wattage or amperage. If it lists amps rather than watts, multiply the amps by the voltage (120V for most US household appliances) to get watts. For example, a device drawing 8 amps on a 120V circuit uses 960 watts.

The spec sheet method: Search the model number of your appliance plus "power consumption" or "wattage." Manufacturer spec sheets almost always include this, and it tends to be more accurate than generic averages.

The plug-in meter method: A plug-in power meter (commonly called a Kill-A-Watt or similar, priced around $15-25 at hardware stores) measures real-time power draw when you plug your appliance into it. This is the most accurate method, especially for older appliances or devices with variable loads. It also shows you consumption over time, which helps with watt-hour calculations.

Working out how much capacity you need

The calculation is straightforward. List the devices you want to run during an outage, note their running wattage, and multiply by the number of hours you'd want to run them. Add those figures together and that's your minimum required capacity in watt-hours. Add 15% for conversion losses and you have a realistic target.

Example:

Refrigerator (150W) running continuously for 12 hours = 1,800Wh.

Router (15W) for 12 hours = 180Wh.

Three LED lights (30W combined) for 8 hours = 240Wh.

Laptop (65W) for 6 hours = 390Wh. Total: 2,610Wh.

With a 15% buffer, you'd want a station with at least 3,000Wh for this scenario, or a 2,000Wh unit paired with daytime solar recharging to offset the deficit.

Why this is useful beyond backup power

Understanding what your appliances actually draw gives you a clearer picture of your household's electricity consumption. It helps identify which devices are costing you the most on your bill, whether efficiency upgrades are worth it, and how solar generation would offset your usage. It's a useful baseline for any home energy conversation.

If you have questions about specific appliances or want help working through the math for your situation, post below.

Jackery Team

One of the most common questions we get at Jackery is how to choose between home power stations, and the answer is less about specs than most people expect.

A lot of buyers compare watt-hours and assume bigger is better. Sometimes that is true. But capacity you do not need is money spent on a problem you do not have. The better starting point is a clear list of what you would actually want running during an outage, and working backward from there.

Step 1: Be specific about what you need to keep running

Most households fall into one of three practical tiers when it comes to outage priorities.

The essentials tier covers the items where losing power creates an immediate, concrete problem: the refrigerator, the router, phone and laptop charging, and basic lighting. If that is your list, you are looking at a modest load that a 1,000Wh unit handles comfortably for several hours. The HomePower 1000 v2 is built for this scenario. It is designed for work and short-term outages, with a sub-10ms switchover that keeps laptops, modems, and routers online through grid drops without interruption.

The comfort tier adds a TV, a fan or small space heater, a CPAP or humidifier, and enough runtime to comfortably get through an overnight or full-day outage. This is the most common scenario for households in areas with moderate grid reliability issues, and it is where the HomePower 2000 Plus v2 makes the most sense. It covers the essentials and then some, with enough margin to not be constantly watching the battery level. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 is expandable entry-level home power: you can grow capacity as your needs change without replacing the core unit.

The coverage tier is for households running larger loads: sump pumps, essential devices that need continuous power, electric vehicle charging, or situations where the outage might last multiple days and normal household function needs to continue as much as possible. This tier requires the HomePower 3600 Pro Max, which is the fuller home backup solution best suited when paired with a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for circuit-level integration.

Step 2: Think about outage duration, not just load

A device's capacity matters in context. A 2,000Wh battery powering 500W of combined load lasts roughly four hours. The same battery powering 200W of essentials lasts around ten. Duration is a function of both capacity and what you are running.

If outages in your area are typically short, under three or four hours, a smaller unit covers most scenarios without issue. If your area experiences longer outages due to storm damage, aging infrastructure, or rural grid access, larger capacity or the ability to recharge via solar during the day becomes more important.

Step 3: Rent or own? Consider how permanent your setup will be

Portability is a real factor. The HomePower 1000 v2 at around 23 lbs is genuinely moveable. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 at 41 lbs is manageable with two people. The HomePower 3600 Pro Max at 73.85 lbs (33.5 kg) is best treated as a permanent location unit rather than one you plan to move.

The larger unit's weight and installation requirements are worth factoring in. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 is often the practical ceiling for renters who want meaningful capacity without committing to a permanent setup.

Step 4: Plan for growth if you are thinking long-term

The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 includes an expansion port for additional battery packs, allowing capacity to scale up to 12kWh without replacing the core unit. If you are not sure whether you will want more coverage in a year or two, buying the expandable unit at a lower starting price and adding to it later is a reasonable approach.

The HomePower 3600 Pro Max also supports battery expansion and is designed to integrate with a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for whole-home circuit coverage. If eventual circuit panel integration is your goal, that is the unit to build around.

Step 5: Factor in solar if you are a high-sun property

All three units support solar input. If you have a south-facing patio, balcony, or any reliable sun exposure, solar charging changes the calculus significantly. Rather than having a fixed battery you need to recharge from the wall after each outage, you have a system that replenishes itself during the day. For longer outages, that can mean indefinite runtime on essentials.

The Jackery app connects to all three units for monitoring, scheduling, and Time of Use Mode, which lets you charge from the grid during off-peak rate windows and discharge during peak periods. If solar is part of your plan, bigger capacity makes more sense because you have a way to fill it.

Powering a room from a circuit, in practice

The easiest way to understand why a transfer switch matters is to walk through what it actually covers in a real room.

Take the kitchen. The loads that matter during an outage are the refrigerator, a microwave or kettle for heating food, counter outlets for small appliances, and lighting. Without a transfer switch, covering the refrigerator means running an extension cord from your power station to the fridge, which works, but requires you to remember it, act on it, and stay mindful of it throughout the outage. The other outlets in the room stop working entirely.

With a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS wired to the kitchen circuit, the situation is different. When the grid drops, the transfer switch routes backup power through the wall circuit automatically. The refrigerator stays cold without you unplugging and re-plugging anything. The counter outlets stay live. The under-cabinet lights come on. The room functions.

In terms of what this draws: a full-size refrigerator runs at roughly 100 to 200W on average, with compressor startup spikes that can reach 800W or more. A microwave draws 1,000 to 1,500W but only runs for minutes at a time. LED lighting is typically 10 to 15W per fixture. Running the fridge continuously, using the microwave occasionally, and keeping lights on, the kitchen as a whole might average 250 to 350W of sustained draw.

A HomePower 2000 Plus v2 at 2,048Wh can cover that sustained load for roughly six to eight hours before recharging is needed. Expanded to 12kWh, the same unit covers the kitchen through a full day and into a second. A HomePower 3600 Pro Max at 3,584Wh with 240V output adds the ability to run larger loads if your kitchen has an electric range or other 240V circuits (though in most outage scenarios, those are lower priority than the fridge and basic lighting).

The same logic applies to other rooms. A TV room running a 65-inch display (80 to 150W), a streaming box or cable receiver (15 to 30W), and a floor lamp (10 to 15W) is a lighter load than a kitchen and will run from a 2000 Plus v2 for substantially longer. A home office running a laptop, external monitor, router, and modem typically draws 150 to 250W combined — the 1000 v2 handles that with its sub-10ms switchover, and the HP2000 Plus v2 covers it for longer extended outages.

The practical answer to "can I cover three rooms for two days" is: yes, with the right unit and the right circuit selection. The 3600 Pro Max expanded to 21kWh with Jackery battery packs that can sustain multiple circuits simultaneously across two or more days. The more realistic starting point is to identify your actual critical loads per room (fridge, lights, a modem, a phone outlet) and size to those rather than treating every circuit in every room as essential. A 2000 Plus v2 expanded to 12kWh covering a kitchen and a home office circuit will outperform trying to cover every outlet in the house with a single larger unit, because you are running less waste load.

The practical summary

Most households in the essentials-to-comfort range are well served by the HomePower 1000 v2 or HomePower 2000 Plus v2, depending on how long outages typically last and how many things they need running simultaneously. The 3600 Pro Max is for households with larger loads, longer outages, or a plan for whole-home integration via an ATS or MTS.

If you want a more specific recommendation based on your situation, post your setup below: rough location, what you would want to keep running, and whether you rent or own.

Jackery Team

We've just launched three new Home Power Series units and want to give the community a clear breakdown rather than a marketing overview.

The HomePower Series is Jackery's dedicated home backup line. These units are designed with home use in mind: pro-grade UPS performance, 240V output support, and the option to connect to your home's circuits via a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS. Here's what's in the new generation and what each unit is designed for.

HomePower 3600 Pro Max

This is the largest unit in the Home Power lineup and the one built for households that want meaningful coverage rather than just essentials.

The headline capability is 240V output via a NEMA 14-50 port, alongside two standard 120V outlets. That 240V port is what opens up larger appliances: electric dryers, EV charging, certain HVAC systems, and whole-home circuit integration via a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS. In terms of what it can run simultaneously, a realistic load might include a full-size fridge, several lights, a router, a CPAP, and a TV, with capacity left over.

Battery capacity sits at 3,584Wh using LiFePO4 chemistry. LiFePO4 is more thermally stable than standard lithium-ion and has a significantly longer cycle life. The 3600 Pro Max is rated for 6,000 charge cycles before dropping to 70% capacity. Charged daily, that's over 16 years of use.

When grid power is interrupted, the unit switches to battery in under 10 milliseconds in UPS mode. At that speed, most electronics register no interruption at all. It connects to the Jackery app for monitoring, scheduling, and configuration.

Weight sits at 73.85 lbs. This is not a unit you'll move regularly. It's intended as a fixed installation, ideally wall-adjacent and paired with the Jackery ATS (or your existing MTS) for circuit-level integration.

Website | Amazon

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HomePower 2000 Plus v2

The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 occupies the middle of the range and is the unit that fits the widest range of household situations. At 2,048Wh, it has enough capacity to cover essential loads through a full day's outage with reasonable headroom.

Practical load coverage includes a refrigerator, router, laptop and phone charging, a few lights, and a TV with several hours of runtime remaining. For essential devices like a humidifier or CPAP, runtime extends considerably. It's also capable of running a small window AC unit for a few hours if needed.

At 41 lbs, it's still manageable to move if needed, which gives it more flexibility than the 3600 Pro Max. It includes an expansion port for connecting additional battery packs, allowing capacity to grow over time without replacing the core unit. Expansion raises total capacity up to 6,000Wh when paired with compatible battery packs.

Same LiFePO4 chemistry, same 6,000 cycle rating, same 10ms UPS switchover. App connected with Time of Use Mode. Solar compatible.

Website | Amazon

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HomePower 1000 v2

The HomePower 1000 v2 is built for work and short-term outages. 1024Wh of capacity and 1500W of output, enough to drive a laptop 114 times longer than a standard UPS, for up to 57 additional hours of productivity. Sub-10ms switchover keeps users and devices online through grid drops with no interruption. 3kV surge protection shields modems, routers, and other sensitive electronics from the voltage spikes that come with electrical storms.

It runs routers, laptop and phone charging, LED lighting, and a CPAP without issue. A full-size fridge is possible for shorter durations but will draw down the battery faster than the larger units. At around 23 lbs, it's the most portable option in the range and can be moved between rooms or taken to a different location as needed.

It shares the same battery chemistry, cycle life, and UPS switchover speed as the other two units. App control is included. Solar input is supported.

Website | Amazon

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What's consistent across all three

• LiFePO4 battery chemistry: more stable, longer-lasting than standard lithium-ion

• 6,000 charge cycles to 70% capacity: over 16 years at one charge per day

• 10ms automatic switchover in UPS mode: no perceptible interruption for most electronics

• Jackery app: monitoring, scheduling, Time of Use Mode, remote control, firmware updates

• Solar input: compatible with Jackery solar panels for grid-independent charging

• ATS/MTS compatible: can connect to a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for circuitlevel home integration

What's new in this generation

The HomePower 3600 Pro Max is the significant step forward. 240V output is new to the HomePower line and is what makes whole-home circuit integration practical. The expansion battery port on the HomePower 2000 Plus v2 is also new, allowing capacity upgrades to 6,000Wh without hardware replacement. Both are meaningful improvements for people planning a longer-term home energy setup rather than just buying a one-off emergency device.

If you have questions about any of the units or want a more specific comparison for your situation, post below!

Jackery Team

Hey all,

For years, Jackery has made power stations designed for portability: camping trips, job sites, outdoor events, and emergency backup. We do that job well. But these tools were never really designed with apartment living in mind. They're large, and in some cases may be overkill if your goal is something more simple, say a fridge running through a blackout.

That was exactly our train of thought when we created our latest solution: FridgeGuard. A different product for a different problem!

What the FridgeGuard is built to do

The core use case is simple: keep your refrigerator powered when the grid goes down. That's it. Rather than building another general-purpose power station and asking people to figure out the right use for it, we designed this one around a single, specific job.

It uses UPS switch technology, meaning when power cuts out it switches over to battery without any input from you. No app, no button, no manual intervention. It detects the outage and responds within milliseconds. If you're asleep when the power goes out, you'll wake up to a fridge that's still cold.

The design reflects the target use case too. Most people don't want emergency equipment sitting in their kitchen.

The FridgeGuard has a slim profile and a clean aesthetic that's meant to blend into a home environment rather than stand out from it. It's compact enough to live in a kitchen or utility space without requiring a dedicated corner or storage area.

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Who this product is for

We designed it primarily with three groups in mind.

First, renters and apartment dwellers. These are people who have no control over building infrastructure, live in areas with aging grid systems, and have experienced the frustration of losing a full fridge and freezer to a blackout that lasted a few hours. A full-scale whole-home battery system isn't practical or affordable for most renters. The FridgeGuard is a proportionate solution to a specific problem.

Second, first home buyers. Moving from renting to owning often means encountering grid reliability issues for the first time, dealing with older wiring, and suddenly being responsible for equipment that wasn't a concern before. The FridgeGuard gives new homeowners a straightforward way to protect one of the most expensive ongoing costs in their kitchen without committing to a large installation.

Third, people in areas where short outages are a regular occurrence rather than a rare emergency. Frequent short blackouts are exactly the scenario where automatic switchover matters most. You're not always home, you're not always awake, and manually responding to every outage gets old quickly.

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What it's not

The FridgeGuard is not a whole-home backup system. It's not designed to run your lighting, your devices, your HVAC, or anything beyond the dedicated fridge circuit it's connected to. If you need broader coverage, that's a different product at a different price point. We'd rather you buy the right thing than oversell this one.

It also doesn't require a professional installation in the way a whole-home battery system does. The setup is straightforward and documented in the included guide.

Part of a new product line

The FridgeGuard is the first product in what we're calling the Guard Series. The concept behind the series is purpose-built protection: devices designed to do one job reliably, with a form factor and price point that reflects that focus rather than trying to be everything at once.

If you have questions about compatibility, how the automatic transfer works, or whether it suits your specific setup, post them below and we'll respond!

Need more info? Check out our website.

Jackery Team

Hey Jackery community,

It's been a while, but we're back with some good news!

Our team has been cooking up some seriously good deals to kick off our best Prime Day yet. How good? We're taking up to 65% off some of our best-selling devices.

https://preview.redd.it/qh3drfhx976h1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bcdd86bb855fe34bd720cd38d42b3445b1464e5

So if you've been thinking about setting up a home backup solution or adding a portable battery to your camping kit, now's the time.

Check it out here: Jackery Website | Amazon

Oh, and one more thing...

>!June 17th. Our biggest launch yet... We can't wait to share it with you all!!<

The Jackery Team