We use a Jackery to back up our sump pump and Wi-Fi when our rural power goes out, bridging the gap until we start the generator. This question is about a different situation.
My sister-in-law lives in a Honolulu high-rise and is still without power. She has once again had to empty her refrigerator. Her apartment has a balcony that receives considerable sun.

My wife suggested helping her buy a portable power station and solar panels capable of:
● Keeping the refrigerator running
● Charging her phone
● Possibly powering a fan and a few LED lamps

The panels would, of course, be brought inside before high winds or a storm. Our thought is that once the storm passes and the sky clears, she could recharge the power station from the balcony while utility crews repair the grid.
We still need to determine the refrigerator’s actual energy consumption, the balcony’s orientation and hours of direct sunlight, and any building restrictions.

Has anyone successfully used a balcony solar setup for this purpose? What battery capacity, inverter rating, and panel wattage would you recommend? Jackery is familiar to us, but we’re open to other reliable brands.

I’ve got an Explorer 5000 Plus and a 240V 50A inlet to my home AC panel. I live on a lot that’s heavily shaded, so charging the 5000 via solar panels just isn’t practical. I also have an 9500W tri-fuel inverter generator.

I’m looking for the black box that I can deploy between the generator and the PV ports on my 5000 so that the 5000 can safely be charged during an extended power outage without having to disconnect the 5000 from my house panel.

This something anyone’s done or can provide some pointers and hardware recs on?

Thanks!

I'm wondering if my unit is defective.

I've got a Starlink Mini and I'm using a USB-C PD trigger cable to use the 20V/5A profile. This is SOP for running a Starlink Mini from USB-C PD. I've got a 140W out USB-C PD AC adapter, I've got a 120W USB-C PD power bank that isn't the Jackery and I've got a second PD cable from a different manufacturer. All of those work together. Both cables work with all other 100W / 20V5A capable power sources.

But not the Jackery. The 100W port on the Jackery is only able to deliver up to about 50W (at ~20V) before the port resets. So, for the Starlink Mini that's a hard reboot when running a speedtest for example.

20V5A is an ancient profile and should work without issue, it's explicitly listed in the specs, and it's only the Jackery that fails. So it's clearly defective, right? It would be silly if I jumped through hoops with support, cross-shipping these bricks around, and the replacement does the exact same thing.

Logged me off , now I am trying to log back in
Won’t let me

Curious if anyone has run into this as well. In the 3.5 months I have had my 5000 Plus, I have needed to use it due to extended weather-related power outages. Twice, when I have gone to charge it, either on AC or on a gas-powered generator (irony, I know), the device isn't responsive. Input doesn't click up. The last time I had this happen, I ran it to 0% in hope that it would unscramble the computer control. I can't use the power button, because as noted in a separate post, the Power Button broke.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Have you run into this before?

Some of you have been very helpful with me being new to battery backups. I have the Jackey 5000 plus and a Smart Switch. Works great as designed. If the power goes off all my circuits I have on the Smart Switch move directly to the 5000.

What I noticed is just the 5000 being on uses about 10% each day, I have it set to recharge at 90% since I do not want to be unprepared if the power goes out and don't have at least 90%. So that means every day I am paying to recharge that battery. After 10 days that's a full battery recharge and about 3 full charges a month.

So how much will the battery deplete if I leave it off? My power doesn't usually go out without a storm. Yes occasionally, maybe once a year it goes off when someone hits a pole in the area. So I am thinking I would just leave the battery off. If I know we are getting storms I can turn it on before the storms to have the automatic transfer and then if it goes off because of another reason I just go turn it on.

Anyone else doing this?

I am curious if anyone has seen a similar problem as what I'm about to describe. We happen to be in an unprecedented power outage in my area. The battery is only 3.5 months old and but it has had some pretty good use over this past week. Last night I powered it up to 100% using a gas generator.

I moved the Jackery to it's spot to connect to the house's Manual Transfer Switch. I connected the 50amp cable and then I pressed the power button and it clicked the way it usually does, but the Jackery display did not light up. So I pressed it again. This time, instead of that soft click, it just sort of softly pushed back a bit with no resistance. And that's all it doesnow Suffice to say, I can't power it on at all at this point. Based on some quick interwebz search, I pressed the Power and USB ports simultaneously, thinking it would reset the panel, but that didn't work. Naturally, Jackery support is of no use because they work 9-5, M-F. I am surprised that something as simple as the power button seems so...not solid-state.

Fortunately, to a point, I have still have my friend's gas generator, so I'm using that for critical/essential functions while we weather this natural disaster. There is no projected end to this black out, but it seems like the Jackery is out of commission until well after power is restored.

Has anyone experienced this before?

UPDATE: As some of you noted, the fix is to replace the battery completely. New battery inbound soon. ish.

A question we see regularly: "My 200W panel is only putting out 130W. Is something wrong?" In almost every case, nothing is wrong. The rated wattage on a solar panel is a lab number, not a field number.

Understanding why they differ, and what actually drives real-world output, means you can get close to the rated figure when conditions allow and know what to expect when they do not.

What rated wattage actually means

Panel wattage is measured under Standard Test Conditions (STC): a panel temperature of exactly 25 degrees Celsius, an irradiance of exactly 1,000 watts per square metre, and a specific light spectrum called AM1.5. These conditions exist briefly in controlled testing environments. They almost never exist simultaneously in the field.

Real sun is variable in intensity and angle. Real panels heat up in direct sun. Real air has haze, humidity, and particulates. The gap between rated and real output is not a defect. It is the expected difference between a controlled lab standard and the actual world.

As a rough benchmark: 70 to 85 percent of rated output in clear, direct sun with good placement is normal and healthy. A 200W panel producing 140 to 170W on a clear afternoon is performing correctly. Consistently below 60 percent under clear skies with ideal placement is worth investigating.

https://preview.redd.it/1ign342qavih1.jpg?width=9281&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9425372a45af7e0af9e5affbb417dbe1bc60f091

The main reasons output falls short

1.Panel temperature

This is the most counterintuitive factor and one of the most significant. Solar cells lose efficiency as they heat up. The rate of loss varies by panel type, but a typical figure is around 0.3 to 0.5 percent of rated output per degree above 25 degrees Celsius.

A panel sitting in direct August sun can reach 60 to 70 degrees Celsius on its surface, even in moderate ambient temperatures. At 65 degrees, that is 40 degrees above the STC reference, which translates to a 12 to 20 percent reduction in output before any other factor is considered. A cool, clear March morning with the same irradiance will often produce more than a hot July afternoon.

What you can do: keep air flowing underneath the panel rather than laying it flat against a dark or heat-absorbing surface. Even a few centimetres of clearance makes quite a difference!

2.Irradiance and atmospheric conditions

Irradiance (the intensity of sunlight reaching the panel) drops whenever light has to travel through more atmosphere. This happens at low sun angles (early morning, late afternoon, winter), on hazy days, through thin cloud, and at high humidity. A panel in hazy summer air at a low sun angle might be receiving 600 to 700 watts per square metre rather than the 1,000W assumed in STC. Output scales with irradiance, so 70 percent of full sun gives roughly 70 percent of rated output, all else being equal.

What you can do: position panels to capture the midday window when the sun is highest and irradiance is closest to peak. Track the sun manually if you are in a stationary setup for a full day.

3.Angle and orientation

A panel perpendicular to incoming sunlight captures the maximum available irradiance. As the angle between panel and sun increases, the effective collection area shrinks. A panel that is 30 degrees off-perpendicular captures noticeably less than one that is directly facing the sun.

In the northern hemisphere, panels facing south at an angle roughly matching local latitude capture the most energy across the year. Flat horizontal panels lose the morning and afternoon contribution significantly. East or west-facing panels miss half the day.

What you can do: even tilting a flat panel a few degrees toward the sun makes a measurable difference. This is one of the easiest adjustments with one of the higher payoffs.

4.Partial shading

This is the most damaging factor relative to its apparent size. Solar panels are made up of cells wired in series. When one cell is shaded, it acts as a resistance in the circuit, forcing the other cells to work against it. The result is that shading 10 percent of a panel's surface can reduce output by 50 percent or more, depending on panel design and bypass diode configuration.

Common culprits: tree branches that only partially cross the panel, overhead wires, a neighbouring panel's edge at low sun angles, and objects on nearby rooftops. Early morning and late afternoon are when objects that seem clear at noon cast shadows across panels.

What you can do: map shade across a full day before committing to panel placement, not just at midday. Move panels to positions where they are completely clear during the peak three to four hour window.

5.Dust, dirt, and debris

A layer of dust across a panel's surface reduces the light reaching the cells. The effect is proportional to accumulation and tends to be gradual enough that people do not notice it until output has dropped meaningfully. In dry or dusty environments, a build-up over a few weeks can account for five to ten percent of lost output.

What you can do: wipe panels with a damp cloth periodically. More frequently in dusty conditions or after pollen season. No special products needed.

6.Cable length and resistance

Electricity loses energy as heat when travelling through resistance. Longer cables between panels and unit mean more resistance, which means more energy lost in the cable rather than reaching the battery. This is usually a small factor for typical portable setups but becomes relevant for fixed installations with long runs.

What you can do: use the shortest practical cable run and ensure connections are clean and fully seated. If running a long distance, using panels in series (higher voltage, lower current) reduces resistive losses compared to parallel at lower voltage.

https://preview.redd.it/w04s7y9vavih1.jpg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4b1141841917d78c4a83e83900beac848c3e5bc7

What normal looks like by season

Output varies significantly through the year, even with identical panel placement. At 40 degrees north latitude, peak summer irradiance is roughly double winter peak irradiance, and daily sun hours roughly triple. A system sized for winter minimums will produce well above average in summer. A system sized for summer peaks will fall significantly short in winter without additional panels or a reduced load expectation.

If your system is underperforming against summer expectations in winter, this is normal. If it is underperforming against the same month last year, check for increased shading from grown vegetation, accumulated soiling, or a damaged connection.

A quick diagnostic checklist

If output seems low and conditions are clear:

1. Check panel temperature. Is the surface hot to touch? Air circulation under the panel will help.
2. Check angle. Is the panel facing roughly toward the sun? Even a rough re-aim makes a difference.
3. Check for shade. Walk around the panel and look from below at every angle. Something you cannot see from above may be casting a shadow.
4. Check cleanliness. A wipe may recover several percent of lost output.
5. Check connections. Ensure solar input connectors are fully clicked in and undamaged.
6. Check the unit's input display. Compare current input watts against rated panel wattage and expected conditions. If input is near zero with clear connections and full sun, the cable or connector may be the issue.

Post your numbers below

If you are seeing output that does not match what you expect and the checklist above does not explain it, post your panel model, unit model, conditions, and the wattage reading you are seeing. We will help you diagnose it.

Jackery Team

Thoughts on everyone’s preference. I am simply looking at my first backup power source in case we lose power (family of four). Just currently want for the basics maybe a fridge some fans and some lights. I already ordered and received the Jackery 1500 v2 from Costco with the panel (I know it’s a crappy 100w panel) for $600. And now I’m seeing the Anker s2000 at Home Depot for $600 without any panel. Might be able to get for $540. What would you guys prefer? Interested for your opinion. Anker has the bigger battery, Jackery has less more wattage. Neither I believe can expand via battery.

Thanks for your help!!!

I live in the city, and typically experience outages once a year, and they are usually restored in a few days (max). I just bought the HomePower 3600 Plus, with plans to eventually expand it with a manual transfer switch (mainly for ease), solar panels, and battery pack. My question is this - can the 3600 battery packs be solar charged? What I am seeing on their website leads me to believe they are not. Once I have the switch installed, I will have the unit in the basement (where my panel is), and don't want to have to unhook it (and go without power) and carry the unit upstairs and outside to solar charge. It would make much more sense if the battery pack can be solar charged.

When I plug my resmed into the dc port on my jackery 1000vw ( via a resmed oem 12/24 converter dc cord ) I get a blinking green light on the resmed and it won't fully power on. The brick on the cord shows a solid green light. It is my understanding that the 1000v2 is a bit different than the older models and has some safety feature that is causing it to shutdown the dc current to the resmed and they are not "shaking hands" to complete the connection. How can I get around that with the jackery. My jackery 300 older model works fine with the resmed.

I recently purchased a Jackery 300D portable power station. I also ordered the SolarSaga 40 Air solar panel. I plan on using it for road trips. I want to lay out the solar panel on the flat interior surface behind the rear seats and under the back window (back dashboard), and charge the power station while driving. I will keep the power station on the back row floor out of the sun. Does anybody see any problem that can occur doing this? I specifically am thinking about overheating while I am parked but the tech specs says it can withstand temps of 149. I live in Florida so I think I will get enough sunlight to charge the 300D while driving. Will this work?

I saw the Fridgeguard for the first time yesterday at Costco. Its a pretty nice form factor, and is simple to use compared to a full featured power station. I like it and it would do great at my mother in laws house.

When the unit is connected to 120VAC and powering a load (bypass operation?) is the inverter powered up? Similarly, when the unit is connected to 120VAC and powering a load and then the input VAC is lost does the inverter become enabled at that instant or was it already on and the load just transfers to its output?

What mechanism is used to maintain BMS accuracy without having to do discharge/charge cycles like on other power stations?

Sorry stupid question. I've lost the cable that came with my Explorer 1000 to plug it into the wall to charge. I'm trying to order a generic replacement.

Does anyone know what specs I need to get? Is it a 24V 180W AC charger, and what's the name of the round laptop-style connector end that goes into the Jackery? Is this C15?

Thanks so much!

Wanted to share this as a warning for anyone considering a Jackery Explorer 100 Plus to power a Starlink Mini dish, especially for solar + passthrough setups. I saw some recommendation here on reddit for the Jackery.

We bought two Explorer 100 Plus units specifically to run a Starlink Mini dish off them, but the dish restarts every 2–4 minutes when powered through the Jackery via USB-C. We tested this with multiple different USB-C-to-Starlink cables, all confirmed to support 100W PD, and with two separate units, so it's not a one-off defect or a cable issue. As a comparison, when we power the dish with a regular 100W USB-C PD adapter (like a MacBook charger) instead, everything runs perfectly stable, no reboots, full speed at around 300 Mbps down and 20 Mbps up.

After sending Jackery support videos, serial numbers, and our invoice for investigation, their technical team confirmed that both units show the exact same behavior, and said this "may indicate a compatibility issue that is currently not a known issue." Their only suggestion was to request a refund if we're still within the return window.

So if you're planning on running a Starlink Mini off a Jackery Explorer 100 Plus, especially for a solar setup, be aware that this is a real, reproducible incompatibility as of August 2026, and Jackery currently has no solution for it beyond telling you to return the product. We're now looking at alternatives. If anyone has tips for a power bank that's actually compatible with Starlink Mini, allowed as carry-on on flights, and purchasable within the EU, I'd genuinely appreciate the recommendations.

Hello all:

I'm just getting into the market for potentially buying some type of power station (preferably with solar) to use as a very basic home backup system for when the power goes out occasionally.

I've kind of narrowed it down to the Jackery 1000V2, as it looks like Best Buy Canada currently has them on sale for what I think is a decent price ($799.00 for the one that comes with a solar panel).

My main concern during a power loss event is being able to occasionally run our sewage exhaust pump (kinda like a sump pump I guess) located in our basement. The pump is a "Liberty Pumps Pro 380" model, and it lists some of the specs on the unit (115V, 12Amp, and 4/10HP), with a 41 Gallon Basin. I don't really know much about power draw/requirements (just started looking into this stuff!), but from my little bit of research thus far, it looks like this pump would need about 1380watts while running, but would need closer to 2500watts surge/to start up initially? If that's correct, then the Jackery 1000 V2 SHOULD be able to power the pump, since it has 3000watts peak, correct? Since the pump only comes on for literally 5 seconds, maybe 2-3 times a day total (only needed when someone uses the shower/downstairs sink/toilet, and then only when the tank is full). Since it only turns on a few times a day for a few seconds per use, I'm assuming the Jackery would be fine powering it? If the power was out, the Jackery would only really be needed for the pump, and maybe a few other essentials like keeping our small fridge going, and maybe a couple lights/phone chargers when needed.

I've heard the included solar panels aren't the greatest with the Jackery, but since I would need very little actual power from the unit, I'm thinking the included panels would be sufficient even if the power was off for several days and I could easily spend an entire day charging the unit with the solar panels if needed.