u/Dry_Wedding_6263

Some of you have been very helpful with me being new to battery backups. I have the Jackey 5000 plus and a Smart Switch. Works great as designed. If the power goes off all my circuits I have on the Smart Switch move directly to the 5000.

What I noticed is just the 5000 being on uses about 10% each day, I have it set to recharge at 90% since I do not want to be unprepared if the power goes out and don't have at least 90%. So that means every day I am paying to recharge that battery. After 10 days that's a full battery recharge and about 3 full charges a month.

So how much will the battery deplete if I leave it off? My power doesn't usually go out without a storm. Yes occasionally, maybe once a year it goes off when someone hits a pole in the area. So I am thinking I would just leave the battery off. If I know we are getting storms I can turn it on before the storms to have the automatic transfer and then if it goes off because of another reason I just go turn it on.

Anyone else doing this?

Good day,

I have the 200-watt foldable solar panel that Jackery makes, and I am looking for something that is one piece, has a frame and isn't foldable. I dont see myself having the need to be mobile with my 5000 so I would rather have a solid framed panel that I can put on a tripod and move around the yard easily. Moving and turning a foldable panel is tedious, especially around my yard when I have to move it in and out of shaded tree areas as the sun moves. I dont really have a spot that I can leave it in for more than 30 minutes without tilting or turning to get optimal charging. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I currently have one 5000 plus and the smart switch which is probably enough but I would like to expand just to be ready for a longer than expected grid failure.

My question, the 5000 plus is about $600 more than the expansion battery pack. Is there any benefit to getting the battery pack at this point? I think an additional 5000 plus is a better deal as it can be used alone and portable where the expansion pack is just for, well, expanding the 5000 plus. My thinking is that I get another 5000 plus then if I need more storage I can add expansion to one or both of the 5000 plus.

Appreciate any feedback.

Good Day,
I know this has been asked before but I don’t recall a clear answer. What is the cadence for the background signal scanning? I currently have 2 HDHR Flex 4ks hooked up each with their own antenna pointing in different directions to get different markets. The further market is 82 miles away so those channels aren’t always picked up. So when the background scanning happens and it doesn’t pick them up it removes them from the guide. And yes I have tried making them a favorite and that too will be removed. So how often does the background scan happen? Any particular time? Anyway to disable it?

Also, in the app on the TV, it shows a signal meter next to the channel in the scan tool, how often is that updated? It’s useful to understand this so I can understand if it’s a recent signal metric (an hour or so ago) or a signal measurement from 24 hours ago or longer.

Thanks for reading and i look forward to some feedback.

Certainly. Here's a cleaner, more organized version that tells the full story while keeping your conversational style and humor. It should be much easier for people on Reddit to follow and diagnose.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone has run into this before because I'd really rather not take this TV off the wall unless I absolutely have to.

I have an 85" Hisense Canvas TV connected to a Marantz SR5010 using the TV's HDMI eARC port. The strange part is that eARC audio works perfectly, but I can't get any video to display on the TV from the receiver or anything connected through it.

Here's the backstory...

Because of the way my wall studs are laid out, I couldn't use the included slim wall mount, so I had to use a different mount. Before hanging the TV, I ran a 25-foot HDMI cable through the wall. To make connecting the TV easier after it was mounted, I terminated the cable in a recessed media box, used an HDMI coupler, and then connected a short 3-6 foot HDMI cable from the wall to the TV.

The 25-foot cable was advertised as an 8K HDMI cable, so I assumed it would be more than capable of handling the signal. Same withe coupler. Yes they were ordered off Amazon and I know you cant trust all claims on cables there.

Here's where I made my mistakes...

• Mistake #1: I tested eARC audio before mounting the TV, and since it worked, I assumed everything else would too.
• Mistake #2: I noticed the Marantz setup menu wasn't displaying on the TV during testing but didn't think much of it at the time.
• Mistake #3: I only ran one HDMI cable through the wall instead of pulling a spare while I had the chance. 🤦‍♂️

Now that the TV is mounted, I've realized no video is making it to the TV from the receiver.

Here's what I've tested so far:

• eARC audio works perfectly between the TV and the Marantz.
• I connected the Marantz to another portable TV, and both the setup menus and video display correctly.
• I disconnected the HDMI cable from the Marantz and connected it directly to my laptop. Windows immediately detected a second display and even identified it as a Hisense TV, but the Canvas TV remained black and never displayed an image.

So at this point I'm wondering if:

• There's a setting on the Hisense Canvas that I'm overlooking.
• The 25-foot HDMI cable is bad.
• The HDMI coupler is causing enough signal loss to prevent video.
• Or the TV's HDMI/eARC port has an issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar with the Canvas TV where eARC audio works but video doesn't? Before I go through the headache of taking an 85" TV off the wall and rerunning cables, I'd love to hear if there's something obvious I should check first.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry that's "AC" not "AD"

Hello,

I have both these units, just waiting for my electrician to install the switch. I am debating whether or not to add my home central 2.5 Goodman AC. Before we start, I will add that I ordered a MICRO-AIR EasyStart FLEX 398 to add to my AC to lessen the load when it first starts.

Knowing this, will the Explorer 5000 be able start my AC or will it trip (is that right term for a battery lol) Anyway, I did see a video of the explorer 3600 plus and someone trying to get it to start and it wouldn't work. I am hoping with the increased specs of the 5000 this would work.

Second question, i am thinking of getting an additional battery pack to add to the explorer. However, its only $500 more for an actual explorer. If my AC will start, and I added a second explorer that would connect directly to the switch, could I direct all the AC to just the additional explorer? This way I can separate the loads.

Thanks in advance and go easy i am by no means an electrician. :)

I bought this TV and it's still in the box. I really don't want to open the box it until I have everything measured and sketched out on the wall and ready to be mounted. This will be a project over time so I feel safter with it in the box and the manual will probably be buried deep inside.

Anyway, I can't find anything online that gives me the dimensions of where the mounts on TV are. Also exactly where all the cables meet up in the back, I saw in a picture of the back the wires can snake through the plastic back into a recessed square area around the back. I have seen pictures of it, but I want to be precise as possible. Knowing exactly where all these things are will be extremely helpful.

Does it come with some type of paper template in the box that you can unfold and put on the wall showing all the connectors and where they are on the TV? If so maybe i will open the box.

If not does anyone have this TV and could possibly get me the dimensions?

TYIA.

I know in NYC they are in the 100's based off the ATSC 1.0 virtual channel. Like CBS, 2.1 ATSC 1.0 and then it being 102.1 and so on. Does Philly follow this same pattern?