For the people interested in the STI 6 spd swap information I have
Total cost ~ $9100 including shipping & tax
ACT
-SB10-HDSS Clutch ~ $833
-Street lite flywheel ~ $476
IMPORT IMAGE
-OEM Clutch flywheel cover ~ $18
IWIRE
-DCCD transmission adapter ~ $90
-The DCCD controller will get purchased as well but it is not necessary right away ~ $900 price not included in total as I have not yet purchased it
P&L
-J-pipe bracket ~ $40
-Drive Shaft Spacer ~ $100
ARP
-Flywheel Bolts ~ $65
Subaru
-Down Pipe gasket (might have been ok to keep original it wasn't bad but for $18...)
-Muffler gaskets ~ $5/per
-Pressure Plate bolts ~ $1/per for OEM -- Would have bought 9 if we knew ahead or maybe gotten from ARP. Will need at least 3 new because the wrx uses 6 and sti uses 9
EBAY
TAE
-Trans Swap (kit) ~ $6300
Not sure what vendor
-STI Trans Shifter Plate for in the car ~ $30
-STI Trans Insulator Boot ~ $30
Fluids
-6 quarts Motul Gear 300 75w-90 gear oil ~ $160
-DOT 3 brake fluid (only because we removed the slave cylinder. If I had it to do again I would leave the stock slave cylinder attached to the master cylinder with the banjo bolt until ready to put the new one on. )
Autozone,NAPA,Oreilly...
-2 bolts to bolt linkage to chassis honestly I can’t remember if they are M10 or M8
-4 M10-1.25x30MM bolts and nuts for the Axle back exhaust ~ $20
-2 M10-1.25 nuts for the downpipe ~ $5
PB Blaster ~ $10
Harbor Freight
-Daytona 6-ton Jack Stands ~ $80/per set -- https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-heavy-duty-ratcheting-jack-stands-slate-gray-70594.html
-Daytona Long Reach Low Profile 3-ton Jack ~ $270 - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-black-64781.html
-Pittsburgh 450-lb low-lift transmission jack ~ $130 - https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-70262.html
Things to know --
-Just unbolt the slave cylinder from the trans and support until ready to swap (this will reduce the dripping from the banjo)
When removing the TMIC disconnect and remove the intake side tube at the quick disconnect (required removing the TMIC mounting rod)
-we had to remove the Reinforced plate to remove the exhaust, since we didn't have quicklifts, a lift , or disn't put the car 24" in the air this helped get the trans out and in
-We put the car 5 clicks up on the jackstands, and only lifted the front when getting the trans actually out from under
If we were doing it again we would remove the reverse sensor from the trans while putting it under the car to hopefully save it
Remove the shift linkage from the trans before install
-After the trans is coupled and torqued down and before the cross member is in lower the tailstock all the way to put the linkage and reverse sensor in
-Although the top bolts on the knuckle don't look like they are actual Camber they are shouldered and I would mark them before removal. There are lines on them to know
-The easiest way to get the transmission mounted to the engine is to bring it in on a steep angle and line it up with the studs on the bottom of the engine then lift the tail stock on the trans and walk it on the studs
-When installing the throw out bearing the fork and roll pin have to come out so be sure to do this before the transmission is under the car I would suggest watching the install video before hand as the sti trans is a pull instead of push clutch
Also there is a good possibility I am missing a couple things in this post if you have more questions just reach out. I also did record the entire process so eventually I will post a YouTube video which should help with disassembly and reassembly, it’s not the best but better then nothing.