u/Jeanhamel

Looking for recommendations for the best MMI box for a 2011 Mercedes W204 C350 with COMAND NTG 4.0.

I currently have an Android head unit installed (pictured). I wrapped the trim in black leather and even designed and 3D printed a custom front bezel that's also wrapped in matching leather, so the integration is much cleaner than the typical Android kits. Even so, after living with it for a while, I'm seriously thinking about going back to the original COMAND screen with an MMI box.

The Android screen is larger, has a better display and is touch-enabled, but I really miss the OEM motorized screen and having full access to the NTG 4.0 menus.

There are also a lot of little things that have started to bother me. The backup camera has a noticeable delay, the 360° camera system is honestly pretty mediocre, and the front camera became badly scratched after just one winter and is now almost unusable. The Android unit also takes a good 2-4 minutes to fully boot before everything is working properly and I can play music, which gets annoying on short trips. On top of that, the glossy screen creates a lot of reflections in bright sunlight.

The biggest issue is that I completely lost access to the factory audio settings and clock settings. I'm about to install a custom 8" subwoofer in the rear armrest, and I'd like to readjust the factory bass settings instead of just adding more bass on top of the existing tuning.

I mainly use Google Maps and Spotify, so Android Auto is all I really need. I don't need a full Android tablet in the dash.

For those who have already done the conversion:

- Which MMI box would you buy today?

- JoyeAuto? Road Top? Mr12Volt? Something else?

- Any brands or models to avoid?

- How has reliability, Android Auto performance and audio quality been?

I'm looking for the most OEM-like and reliable solution rather than the cheapest one.

Thanks!

These wheels were in rough shape: failed clear, corrosion, pitting, stains, and years of neglect. I kept the tires mounted, sanded the damaged areas, masked everything off, and refinished them outside with rattle cans.

The finish is not perfect up close. The deep double-spoke design made the tight areas difficult, so there is some dry spray and texture. Still, the color came out consistent, there are no major runs, and the overall transformation is massive compared to how they started.

Products used:

-Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer

-Dupli-Color DAP1700 Filler Primer

-Dupli-Color Hyper Silver HSK100

-Dupli-Color Hyper Silver Clear

-Rust-Oleum Aluminum Metallic for the barrels

Not show-car quality, but much more presentable than before. Curious what you guys think.

These OEM AMG 18s were in pretty rough shape before I started: corrosion, peeling clear, curb rash, and years of wear.

The barrels are done; faces are next. How’s the progress looking so far?

This is my 2011 Mercedes C350 4MATIC Sport Package. I genuinely love this car. It drives great, looks great, and still feels special for its age. But damn, it has been giving me a full diagnostic workout lately.

Current issues I’m chasing:

1. Fuel leak / fuel smell

   - Originally had EVAP codes, possibly small leak / large leak / open circuit.

   - Gas cap was replaced.

   - EVAP purge valve was replaced.

   - Secondary air pump was replaced and that code went away.

   - Strong fuel smell near the rear, mostly driver side.

   - I first thought it was only vapor, but now I confirmed there is actual liquid fuel dripping under the car after the engine runs and fuel pressure builds.

   - After sitting for a couple days it barely drips, but once started, it starts dripping and forms a puddle.

   - I suspect a pressurized fuel line or fuel line connector under the car, possibly around the middle/underbody area.

2. Long crank after sitting

   - If the car sits for 24+ hours, it sometimes cranks longer before starting.

   - If I turn ignition on first and let the fuel pump prime, it starts much better.

   - Now that I found the fuel leak, I suspect the fuel pressure is bleeding off through the leak.

3. ESP / Run Flat / cruise control issue

   - I’ve had Run Flat warnings even with correct tire pressure.

   - Cruise control no longer engages. It just shows "---" instead of setting the speed.

   - Under WOT, the car sometimes starts accelerating, then throttle response drops out and RPM falls. I have to pull over, shut the car off, restart, and then it drives normally again.

   - Suspecting ABS wheel speed sensor, wiring, tone ring, brake switch, or ESP-related signal issue.

   - I bought a Launch Creader Elite for Mercedes and plan to check ESP/ABS live data, especially all 4 wheel speeds.

4. Steering feels weird

   - Steering is not consistently heavy. It feels heavy for part of the rotation, then easier, then heavy again, almost like a cyclic binding.

   - The steering wheel does not self-center properly after turns.

   - There is a small squeak/creak near the driver footwell/firewall area.

   - Power steering pump does not sound terrible. It only makes the normal louder sound at full lock.

   - I previously worked on the ESL and loosened the steering column mounting bolts, so I tried repositioning the column, but the slots do not have much adjustment.

   - I’m currently suspecting the interior steering shaft / U-joint / rubber coupling area, possibly around the part marked "PP 204 460 191".

I’m not here to complain too much because I really do love the car, but this thing is turning into a full mechanical investigation.

Has anyone here dealt with similar W204 issues, especially:

- fuel line leaks under the car,

- WOT throttle cut with ESP/cruise/Run Flat symptoms,

- cyclic steering binding from the steering shaft or column U-joint?

Any known failure points, part numbers, or diagnostic tips would be appreciated.