r/w204

Hi everyone, I've noticed the front height seems lower than what I remember, what do you guys think?

Also, the front tires always seem to wear on the outer side (very irregular wear across the thread).

Recently (like yesterday) I started noticing kinda of a metallic noise when I go over bumps like if something is loose. The metallic noise seems like 2 metal bars hitting each other, not rubbing or scratching.

Any advice?

Ps: the car as nothing inside, not even the spare tire

Story is it ran well until it died on the highway. I bought it as a project. Ive been chasing a nr 4 injector code (short circuit/malfunction) and I've now replaced it and recoded the ECU with it.

Now it appears to run smoother but it will still die sometimes just changing gears. It also sometimes knock pretty heavily like on the video.

Low pressure fuel pump produces 4 Bar steadily. Around 280 bar of rail pressure at idle. What more can I check and do?

Looking for recommendations for the best MMI box for a 2011 Mercedes W204 C350 with COMAND NTG 4.0.

I currently have an Android head unit installed (pictured). I wrapped the trim in black leather and even designed and 3D printed a custom front bezel that's also wrapped in matching leather, so the integration is much cleaner than the typical Android kits. Even so, after living with it for a while, I'm seriously thinking about going back to the original COMAND screen with an MMI box.

The Android screen is larger, has a better display and is touch-enabled, but I really miss the OEM motorized screen and having full access to the NTG 4.0 menus.

There are also a lot of little things that have started to bother me. The backup camera has a noticeable delay, the 360° camera system is honestly pretty mediocre, and the front camera became badly scratched after just one winter and is now almost unusable. The Android unit also takes a good 2-4 minutes to fully boot before everything is working properly and I can play music, which gets annoying on short trips. On top of that, the glossy screen creates a lot of reflections in bright sunlight.

The biggest issue is that I completely lost access to the factory audio settings and clock settings. I'm about to install a custom 8" subwoofer in the rear armrest, and I'd like to readjust the factory bass settings instead of just adding more bass on top of the existing tuning.

I mainly use Google Maps and Spotify, so Android Auto is all I really need. I don't need a full Android tablet in the dash.

For those who have already done the conversion:

- Which MMI box would you buy today?

- JoyeAuto? Road Top? Mr12Volt? Something else?

- Any brands or models to avoid?

- How has reliability, Android Auto performance and audio quality been?

I'm looking for the most OEM-like and reliable solution rather than the cheapest one.

Thanks!

I just bought this car and had it in for a health check. Had some other issues that I’m not so worried about but the significant oil leak is pretty worrying.

My torquimeter didnt work properly and I ended up applying too much torque and broke the thread of the oil drain plug screw. Someone told me it can be soldered. What are my emergencial options here before I can replace the pan?
Ty!

I recently did the dreaded ESL job on my 2014 C300, and before I put the steering wheel back together I reconnected the battery to check if the car would start. During that time the airbag was disconnected and popped the code saying that the front left airbags were off.

My question is, can I just clear the code with an obd2 scanner and call it there? I heard that when a fault turns on that it disengages the entire airbag system until it is fixed.

The dealer has left a bad taste in my mouth the last few times I’ve had them work on the car so Im sort of against bringing it to them. I asked them anyways, and they said their policy is that they have to pull out EVERY airbag in the car just to check and make sure they’re connected before clearing the code and they want $250 for the whole thing. I know that might not sound like a lot of money to some of you guys, but after spending around two grand in just the last month on the car, I’m trying to pinch as many pennies as I can!

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to entertain my questions.

I‘ve already made a post about this but I‘m still unsure. So I want to convert to those led strips as I dont ever use the foglights and dont really like the outdated look of those round bulbs. The plugs for the original Halogen bulbs is different from the LEDs. So I would have to cut the stock plug off, get the fitting plug and solder it (pic 3). To prevent error codes in the drl circuit I‘d have to splice in some load resistors (parallel). Which Resistors (ohm rating) will I need? I‘d have to do the same for the fog light circuit, I cant just leave the plug hanging either, so what resistors do I get for the fog lights?

Please help me

These wheels were in rough shape: failed clear, corrosion, pitting, stains, and years of neglect. I kept the tires mounted, sanded the damaged areas, masked everything off, and refinished them outside with rattle cans.

The finish is not perfect up close. The deep double-spoke design made the tight areas difficult, so there is some dry spray and texture. Still, the color came out consistent, there are no major runs, and the overall transformation is massive compared to how they started.

Products used:

-Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer

-Dupli-Color DAP1700 Filler Primer

-Dupli-Color Hyper Silver HSK100

-Dupli-Color Hyper Silver Clear

-Rust-Oleum Aluminum Metallic for the barrels

Not show-car quality, but much more presentable than before. Curious what you guys think.

What could be the cause of this rattling? It increases with the rpm and shows no error codes. It does not go away either if the engine warms up. The mechanic said it is nothing serious and the sound is from inside the engine.

Hi all. I'm hoping someone wiser than me can help with a quad exit diffuser part number for this bumper.

I have a C180, 2012 post facelift model, but the car has pre facelift bumpers by the looks of it, so trying to find an OEM rear diffuser for this style bumper, if one exists, so i can fit a Cobra quad exhaust.

Any ideas on part numbers?

I'm based in the UK.

Hey all, this is a first startup after leaving the car overnight. Only started noticing it as the weather's gotten colder. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

The car has 300k km. It's a 2011 c250 cdi oem 651. I had it for one month, unfortunately, I don't know who the previous owner was so I can ask about service history.

Is there any chain noise? I can thell the vacuum pump is making noise after pressing the brake, but I'm not sure how chain noise sounds like.

My C250 DLI 2011; done 175,000 km; original engine and body kit; West German CBU; 12kmpl in bad city traffic.

Why do they stutter a little, and then rise up fully? Anyone had the same problem? (I'm manually rising and lowering the lights in the video)
Edit: when its automatically rising the lights when driving, it rises them a little, holds then there, as if its checking for traffic, and then rises them fully.
If it matters, i changed both of the d1s bulbs, but i noticed that happening even before i changed them