r/w204

Hi! I bought a base model w204 amg package. I like everything but the halogen color looks really ugly.

As far as I know, starting from left to right, there's a low beam H7, a high beam H7 and a parking light. I've been told to buy canbus LEDS.

Has anyone converted their ones to led? Can I convert all of them to led? (lowbeam, highbeam and parking)

Or should I buy a halogen that's white? I just want the headlight to match the bumper DRLS (i think the color is 6000k)

it only says left or right, alltough the upper balljoint is more tilted then the lower one

My car drives great, I can accelerate , de accelerate fairly fast, but I cannot stomp on it or else it’ll throw a code that says, “ESP Inoperative” then “Run Flat Indicator Inoperative” in unison, then limits engine power & acceleration, if I turn the car off & on it goes away. It really only affects me if I want to race anyone , but feels like it’ll become more of an issue the longer I don’t address. TIA

I have a 2009 w204 c220 with the om651. These messages come on all of a sudden when driving normaly. I have no idea what to do, no fuses went, no issues before this. If someone has had the same issue, how did you fix it?

Good morning, everyone!
I own a 2012 C200 with the M271 EVO engine for about four months. Last week, I had a Stage 1 remap done, keeping the catalytic converter, and got the following dyno results (red lines are before the remap, blue lines are after):

Yesterday I took the car on the highway and was able to drive it a bit harder for the first time since the remap. In fact, even before the remap, I had only driven it on the highway twice, and always quite conservatively. Never over 140km/h.
So, yesterday during a hard acceleration with kickdown, the check engine light came on and the car went into limp mode, limiting power. I stopped the car some time later, turned it off and back on, and the error disappeared and everything went back to normal.

I ran a scanner and got code P0002. Unfortunately, I cleared the code without thinking (I should have saved it so I could check the freeze-frame data in Xentry later).

This brings me to a few questions:

1. Could my HPFP be failing, and is it just a coincidence that the problem showed up now after the remap? How can I properly diagnose this through Xentry?

2. Could the fact that the problem occurred after the remap indicate a poorly calibrated map, causing the engine to demand more fuel than the pump can deliver, meaning that a remap adjustment could solve the issue without replacing the pump? I find this somewhat unlikely, since even after the remap the car is still not making as much HP as a stock C250, although it reached quite a bit more torque.

3)Could it be another component, or even the fuel itself? Unfortunately, in my country, contaminated/adulterated fuel is not uncommon. However, the car still has the same fuel that was used during the dyno runs, and it ran without any issues then (93 RON).

Any opinions or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

So this is the 2008 C000 luxury, with the motorized infotainment screen, the one that flips into the dash on startup or via button. Curious on what you guys have done for Apple CarPlay? (Only for those with the specific flip system) did you get a CarPlay module and integrate it into the OEM screen? Or is there a CarPlay screen out there that can pop into it and still retain the motorized system? Or is there a delete, with a nicer CarPlay screen to replace it entirely! Links & photos are appreciated.

Bonus; What are you guys running for tint setups? I was thinking 35% on the shield 25% on the fronts and 5% in the back. TIA!

Hallo zusammen,

Ich benötige ein neues Regelmengenventil,
leider habe ich nicht die richtige Teilenummer.
Optisch brauche ich das Delphi 9109-930A , als passend wird aber auch das Delphi 7315-818 sieht jedoch etwas anders aus.
Das zweite Ventil ist deutlich günstiger als das erste deswegen würde ich dazu tendieren sollte es passen.

Anybody get their wheel tilt stuck and have to do the "punch" fix?

Hey guys, I just switched all 6 spark plugs with new proper spec ones, as well as a failing ignition coil (previously had a misfire and code gave it as ignition coil fault).
Anyways now I put everything back together, and I’m
hearing a new knocking noise that gets worse with higher RPM🥲. I’m trying to think what could be the cause, I torqued every spark plug to spec (23nm) I checked the cylinders with a bore scope for any debris before reinstalling the intake manifold.

Part of me feels like the culprit might be the serpentine belt? Maybe it’s just wishful thinking, some help please🙏

I bought a 2011 base model C200 with amg trim. Apparently I have an audio 20 system and I can't connect a reverse camera to my headunit. Do I just buy a reverse camera monitor and install a camera to that?

anyone got a link to special tool or another method? need to torque it up