2014 C300 (w204) Reliability
I’m looking into possibly getting a 2014 c300 with 100,000 miles on it. Can anyone help me with the reliability or tell about their experiences with them? Thanks
I’m looking into possibly getting a 2014 c300 with 100,000 miles on it. Can anyone help me with the reliability or tell about their experiences with them? Thanks
I’m searching thru the manual for the allocation chart, and it gives me the location of the fuse boxes. I have no clue where the fuse for the steering column adjuster is, but I need it found ASAP! As well as that, I found a pdf online for the pre-facelift w204, but I’m not entirely sure how similar the electrical systems are, between pre and post facelift models.
This is bugging me because i like sitting low in my whip!!! Growing tall isn’t a talent of mine.
What I own:
2014 MB c300 4matic, 3.5L 7G TRONIC and all that jazz!
TL;DR: Can I get some help finding and replacing the fuse for the steering wheel column adjuster? And, if that’s not possible, am I able to manually lower it?
Thanks a bunch!!
So I’ve had the car at two separate dealerships, two times now with the complaint my car is rough shifting between 1-2 & 2-3.
I have an XENTRY clone & I can perform the teach-in adaptations per gear & it smoothes it a lot/entirely but the bumpy shift between (1-2 & 2-3) always rears its head after some time. I was hoping the dealership would find something wrong with the software or something each time but never come back with anything, never find any faults & they always reset the adaptations without performing the re-learn, so they return the car stating to them it shifts quite nice, but its quite literally slamming through the gears until I, MYSELF adapt it again properly. Completely stumped, i’ve checked the fluid multiple times/topped it off but still not getting anywhere.
Any ideas?
*I will also add, once properly adapted/re-learn performed, this gear change issue only happens on LIGHT throttle, below 2000 rpm to be exact. If you drive aggressively it’s smooth.
After looking through an alternative Mercedes OEM part catalog I've finally figured out what the difference is between these cars.
Its not the turbo charger like some people suggested on my last post, it is 100% the injectors. The C250CDI utilizes injectors with the code 2887 whilst the C220CDI doesn't.
The OEM turbo codes are still identical between the two models. So it is literally just the injectors that are different.
For some reason the other catalog I used didn't display the 2887 code for the C250.
I'm gonna make an educated guess and say the difference between the 220 and 250 injectors is the nozzles and not the injectors themselves. Which if true is fantastic news because you can buy replacement nozzles for a fraction of the cost of complete injectors.
I'll try and test this theory in the coming month or two by swapping out just the nozzles for 2887 nozzles, bring it in for a remap and see what the results are. With any luck, she'll be in the C250's power range.
Getting the P0128 code intermittently saying the car's warming up too slowly and the battery is brand new too. Had the car for a few weeks and done less than 100 miles. The dealer I bought it from put green coolant in it which after doing some research seems to be used for the diesel models. Is it worth getting a flush or should I just get it drained and refilled with the correct stuff?
*less than 1000 miles sorry
I've been looking at a listing for a 2007 C200 with 350k km (hopefully real). It looks well kept and no wear and tear. It costs around €5500 when converted from my country's currency, which is a standard price for C classes here.
I checked carVertical and it has nothing on the car.
Also, it has all the features that it can have.
I would have my mechanic friend come with me to check the car on the spot.
sunroof still opens and closes fully, but it lost the one-touch behavior. Instead of pressing once and letting it do its thing, I have to click the button like 10 times to get it all the way open or closed, each click moves it just a tiny bit.
It’s not stuck, mechanically seems fine. Just won’t do the automatic full travel anymore.
Anyone had this? Tried holding it close / open for 10 sec at a time but it didn’t work.
So I had this little gem pop up so I guess it is time to change my brakes. Now I have changed brakes on SAAB’s down to Toyota’s, but this will my first Benz. Is there anything special I should look for in my MB? For reference it is a 2014 C300 Sport 4-matic.
Anyone have any preferences on rotors or pads?
Also thinking of painting the caliber housing since I will have the wheels off.
Hi!
Once again I come to you for guidance.
The AC on my car has started to make a high pitched, sizzling noise, like a small leakage. I asked the local mechanic who Said that the AC needs new gas.
Does it sound like a probable cause? The sound comes for the middle console.
Car in question
Mercedes W204 C200 Kompressor
Thanks in advance!
I would like to go down the lowering springs path on the wagon. I was thinking the best path would be the typical springs + camber arms combo to avoid too much camber. Has anyone gone down this path with any success? I really dig this as a daily and I know I'm compromising the car a little by lowering it but I think it would look so trick 20mm lower.
Hey everyone,
I recently saw a W205 sedan rolling on a set of 19-inch Keskin KT18 wheels, and the fitment was absolute perfection. Not too big, not too small, and definitely not looking like a harsh race car. It just had this incredibly clean, classy, yet sporty vibe. The proportions were spot on,there was still a decent amount of tire meat, and it just looked so well-balanced.
Now, I’m about to pull the trigger on a W204 facelift, and I desperately want to achieve that exact same elegant, "perfectly proportioned" aesthetic.
But here is my dilemma, and I really need your expertise on this:
Since the W204 has a slightly more compact body than the W205, I'm worried about how the 19-inch setup will translate. I want to replicate that exact same clean, daily-driable look where the wheel fits the car perfectly, without it looking disproportionate or overpowering the body.
So, W204 experts, please help me out:
Will 19" wheels look just as perfectly proportioned on the W204 facelift, or does the smaller chassis mean I should change the size?
Should I go for 19 inches to get that same full look, or is 18 inches the better sweet spot for the W204 to keep those classier, well-balanced proportions?
If anyone is running 18s or 19s Keskin KT18s (or a similar style) on their W204, please drop your thoughts,and pictures if you have them!
Appreciate any advice or fitment tips you can throw my way. Thanks in advance!
Fresh oil change and a wash, and of course the obligatory photo 🔥
I was using AUX to connect my android screen to the speakers.
After installing a rear view camera, the AUX simply vanished/turned gray in the engineering settings.
Setup hasn’t changed. AMI-Port to aux -> AUX Cord to Screen.
I have no idea what happened.
Appreciate every idea you guys might have!
My post before this for context!
I switched out the electronics from the old wheel to the new one and plugged everything in, the horn and buttons still didn’t work. So I guess I have no other choice but to code it I guess?. Anyone know what I should do or any next steps?
I took my car to the dealership today to get an oil change, and wouldn’t you know it. I couldn’t leave without something else being an issue lol. Have to replace the rear subframe on my girl which I was told is a $9,000 job. Thank god I don’t have to pay that though. Should be rolling by next week. Shout out to Mercedes for covering the bill.
So my question is, can I just buy the LED drls and switch them out? I dont like the look of those two round fog lights, I thought one of the two was supposed to be a day running light but only one of them glows when I turn on the fog light. Would I need to do some extra wiring or coding?
So I've started to replace the factory restrictors and silencers to enchance the supercharger whine. I've replaced the supercharger baffle (kompressor to intercooler pipe) and the 90° from the intercooler to the throttlebody.
The car is still very much daily driveable and you only hear the whine when stepping on the gas (ideal), but of course I'm not done.
Next on the list would be piping from the airbox to the supercharger, but since it is quite a bit more work to get to it I was wondering if anyone had done this and had the diameters on hand.
I tried to follow a youtube video but the measurements that were provided proved to have alot to be desired.
This would save me an extra assembly and disassembly step since I most likely have to order the piping.
Hello!
I had a friend do a chrome delete on my car yearssss ago it was starting to shrink & go bad so I took it off with a heat gun.
However, the adhesive remained on the trim and now there are these black dots all over. They are raised, but no matter what I do they won’t come off.
I’ve tried Goo Gone and WD 40. Both adhesive and those black dots won’t come off. What could the dots be? 🥴
Any suggestions on how to remove both adhesive and whatever these dots are? Lol. Thank you so much!
I've recently bought c250 cdi, and noticed few times so far that engine makes different noise on cold start. Today I've managed to record it and it wasn't this loud ever. How long can I run it before replacing the chain, if it is the timing chain at all?