u/Juiceboxtiddys

Noticed lots of people struggling to find these few

1. Headdress 'shatweh', Bethlehem and Jerusalem area, 19th century.
   Shatweh made of red broadcloth. The sides are embroidered with satin stitch and couched with gold thread and there are five rows of coins attached to the front. Additional elements are attached to this headdress: a silver disc (qurs) with a stamped pattern and pendant coins are attached to the crown; triangular-shaped pendants set with green glass are attached to the ear pieces as is a chin chain embellished with several coins and tokens. Historically, the Shatweh has roots traced back to antiquity, making it one of the oldest and most significant pieces of cultural heritage in the Levant.

2. Women of Bethlehem wearing a shatweh (Late 19th, early 20th c.)
   The shatweh in Bethlehem is made of padded and stiffened layers of embroidered broadcloth and linen. The Shatweh is held on the head by a chin chain called iznaq. It is crafted from hand-made silver chains and hooks, and festooned with Ottoman-era coins. It can include floral or star-shaped ornaments and a cross for Christians.

3. Bethlehem Shatweh made of red felt cloth, embroidered with multicoloured satin herringbone stitches and couched with gilt cord along the sides and with cross-stitch on the ear pieces and the roll at the top. It is and embellished with beads and rows of coins along the front and has a couple of coins sewn to the back. The headdress also has a chin chain attached to it.

4. Shatweh from late 19th century, Bethlehem, West Bank, Palestine, Cotton, silk, gold and silver, coral.
   Orange, purple, red and green silk embroidered fez shaped headdress with 3 rows of silver coins and one row of silver pendants across top front. A coin tassel made up of 11 coins down back. One row of gold coins at front edge with 3 rows of coral beads above. Ear flaps of coloured embroidery with triangular metal pendants over them with 5 chain pendants and 10 moon-shaped dangles attached to the chains.

This hat is decorated with multicolored silk embroidery and couching on each side of a vertical row of coins which runs down the center back. Across the upper front are three horizontal rows of coins which are pierced and sewn on. Beneath these is a single row of smaller decorative coinlike tokens. Below this row are three rows of tubular coral beads. Three gold coins are evenly spaced on top of the coral section. Finally, there is a single row of smaller gold coins, along the lower edge of the hat, which hangs over the wearer’s brow. All of the coins are Ottoman. They were minted in Istanbul and bear the following dates according to the Muslim calendar: A.H. 1171, 1187, 1203, and 1223, which correspond to A.D. 1757–58, 1773–74, 1788–89, and 1808–9, respectively, on the Gregorian calendar. This shațweh was held in place with a zenāq chin chain (the iznac). The zenāq was attached by a hook to the ear-flaps on each side. Also hooked on to each flap is a triangular silver piece (called in Arabic șijāb because it is shaped like an amulet) from which five short chains with crescents are suspended. Both the sign of the crescent moon and the number five are considered to be particularly strong protection against the Evil Eye.

5. Wuqāyat al-darāhim, Bridal headdress or married woman's hat, made of blue and brown cotton; embroidered; red satin lining; coins and coral attached, 19th century

The brides in the villages of the Hebron hills wore a ceremonial headdress called a 'Wuqāyat al-darāhim' (‘money hat’). With its densely-packed rows of Ottoman coins and numerous beads, charms and pendants, the headdress shielded a bride from the ‘eye of envy’. The Wuqāyat al-darāhim was restricted to ceremonial use; brides sometimes wore it during the first wedding day procession but always for the second “going out to the well” ceremony. This ceremony took place after a week of seclusion and marked the bride’s first public appearance as a married woman.

6. Coin adorned Palestinian headdress or 'money hat', Wuqāyat al-darāhim or Samuʿah, late 19th early 20th century. Wuqāyat al-darāhim and Samuʿah refer to the same traditional ceremonial headdress. It is a highly ornate, coin-encrusted bridal cap that was worn by women in the village of Samuʿa (As-Samu) and surrounding villages in the Hebron Hills region of southern Palestine during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The hat is heavily adorned with hundreds of silver Ottoman and Islamic coins. Embroidered into the front of the hat are natural angel skin coral and other assorted beads. Silver crescent and hamsa (hand of Fatima) pendants hang down on the forehead of the wearer. Hanging on the sides of the hat are rows of colored beads terminating with silver Islamic and Ottoman coins.

7. Wuqāyat al-darāhim, Samuʿa, Hebron Hills, southern Palestine, circa 1840s. These special ceremonial headdresses were usually family heirlooms, and were even lent to families who did not own one for a few piastres or were returned filled with sweets. Embroidery threads, cotton and various silver coins.

The woman’s father purchased the bridal coins with money provided by the family of the groom. This exchange officially linked the two families together. As the largest gift given at the wedding, it expressed the high value of women, marriage, and family in Palestinian culture. The headdress not only symbolized the prestige of the bride’s father and husband but also of herself. The more coins and adornments, the higher the status of the bride and her family. Over the years, pieces could be added to the headdress or taken from it to make important purchases.

In some cases, a Wuqāyat al-darāhim was communally owned, and a bride borrowed it for her wedding. If a woman and/or her family owned her headdress, one of her daughters would likely inherit it. Nour Alkhatib is modeling a similar Wuqāyat al-darāhim to the one pictured here.

8. Niqab, face veil, worn by Bedouin women in Palestine, from the early-mid twentieth century. Embroidered, beaded, and strung with coins and chains, 1920-1960 (made)

This niqab face veil is of the kind worn by Bedouin women in Palestine in the early-mid twentieth century. The panel over the forehead has been embroidered according to the Palestinian tradition of tatreez, with coins and beads strung below the eyes and down the sides of the face. The coins are predominantly Ottoman, and the beads made of amber and plastic. The embroidered panel and coins are the oldest part of this, with the addition of plastic beads suggesting the piece evolved over the decades, perhaps as it passed down between generations.

9. Burqa, Bir al-Sabi', Circa 1890-1910
   A burqa (face veil) from the Bir al-Sabi’ region. The front is made of cotton and embroidered with geometric shapes using a light soft stitch from which two coins are hung. From both of the front sides hang mitwah (chains) of beads and amber ending with a coin. The shakkah, the front piece of the burqa that covers the face is made of Hermazi (silk) fabric and in the middle is a row of Ottoman coins while on both sides is a dense group of silver Ottoman coins. From one side of the shakkah hangs 5 silver chains known as ma’ari.

10. Bir Sabe‘ The Bir Sabe‘ area was mainly inhabited by semi-nomadic Bedouin. The head veil made of the blue or black cotton material is embroidered in the middle in reds, orange, and green with patterns similar to those on the dress. The face decoration (burqa‘) is distinctively Bedouin and is worn by married women. This example is composed of an embroidered band fastened around the forehead and ornamented with beads and coins on each side. A narrow piece of fabric adorned with coins on silver chains and silver and brass coins stitched onto the fabric hangs from the brow band. The burqa‘ was worn for modesty and to protect the wearer from the heat and sand of the desert. There are 301 coins on this burqa‘.

11. The Palestinians of Hebron and the surrounding villages call this type of cap an araqiyeh or aragiyeh, araqiyyeh. The aragiyeh on the left is circular with a pointed centre and elaborately embroidered with red and black cross-stitched geometric decoration. Attached to the back of the cap are silver Ottoman coins. The two multicoloured hair-bands, together with the thin black ribbons fixed to either side of the cap, are modern replacements. This type of headdress has been worn in the Hebron area from the late 19th century to the present day. During the British mandate in Palestine, the hair-bands (which were used for tying up the hair into a round bun that rested on the back of the neck) were much longer and were made of plaited woollen thread. This headdress was made for everyday use.

The aragiyeh on the right is embroidered in cross-stitch; embroidered hairbands 'laffayef' of cotton 'dendeki' are bundled at the back. Maria Theresa dollars 'abu risheh' and Turkish coins adorn the aragiyeh. The embroidered edge of the undercap 'taqiyeh' projects from the edge.

12. Araqiyyeh Head Cap, ca. 1915, Hebron, Palestine
    Red embroidered cap with large silver coins and a tail of smaller silver coins ending with two tassels at end of braided cord. This hat for married women is of cotton cloth completely covered with embroidery. The edge is highlighted with magenta, orange, and blue silk thread. The dūr or rim is decorated with pointed arches, a typical pattern for ‘arāqiyyehs. There is chartreuse, green, and red cotton braid along the very edge. The center back pieces are of red silk with yellow stripes. Large silver Ottoman coins bearing the date A.H. 1223 (A.D. 1808–9) decorate the rim. Smaller coins with the date A.H. 1327 (A.D. 1909–10) trail partially down the back. Suspended from the center back is a șafifeh, an orange and red braided cotton cord which splits and ends in two tassels. The two long, red cotton lafā'if are embroidered to half their length with multicolored cross stitch in silk. Attached to the pointed ends of these hair braids are two long braided cords of green and orange cotton terminating in a tassel. The hat is held in place by a chin chain which has two coins attached to it.

13. Wuqayeh/wuqa is the base bonnet or cap. It is a heavily embroidered skullcap worn on the head, featuring chin straps to tie it securely. It often serves as the foundation to which other headdress elements are attached. This wuqa is made of red cotton with a square panel embroidered in cross-stitch in shades of red with some stitches in yellow and green surrounded by an appliqué border with zig-zag edges in yellow and green cotton. The head-dress has in front a padded strip of fabric with brass imitation coins attached. It also has two long strips of navy blue cotton to use as ties, and is lined with a synthetic gauze fabric, late 19th century to early 20th century.

14. head-dress (wuqa, wuqayeh) from Jerusalem or Ramallah
    Village woman's headdress (wuqa, wuqayeh) made of brown dendeki cotton with a square on the crown embroidered in brown, purple, white, green and yellow surrounded by a zigzag border in yellow cotton. The head-dress is lined with calico and has ties of maroon cotton tape as well as a padded roll in front covered with a patterned cotton fabric to which is attached a chain with imitation coins and a chin-chain.

15. head-dress (wuqa, wuwayeh)
    Village woman's head-dress (wuqa, wuqayeh) made of brown cotton fabric with a square of brown and yellow atlas fabric. The headdress is lined with blue cotton and has two long strips of blue cotton tightly wound at the back. It also has a horse-shoe shaped padded roll in front in white cotton and a multi-coloured crocheted fringe with brass-coloured imitation coins, Jerusalem or Ramallah

16. In the nineteenth century, women from Galilee and Ramallah wore a headdress called Şmādeh that was made of cloth skullcap with coins attached to it. The Şmādeh had a padded horseshoe rim sewn with coins called saffeh. Attached to the smadeh was a chain or Znaq (also known as zenāq or iznac) hanging from both sides of the Şmādeh below the chin. This headdress was widely used during the nineteenth century in villages like Al Bassah on the and in Usuffia south of Haifa. The Şmādeh is worn alongside a long veil known as a khirkah.

17. Şmādeh, 1860, Ramallah, West Bank, Palestine. Cotton, silver, silk
    This cap has silk cross stitch embroidery, mostly in the distinctive Ramallah red, on the back. The heavy, stiff rim at the front supports one hundred. Ottoman coins which bear the dates A.H. 1203, 1223, and 1277 (A.D. 1788–89, 1808–9, and 1858–59, respectively). The inner rim has sixty smaller coins which form the fringe in the front. Some of these are gold and are placed in the center. Heavy red silk thread attaches the inner coins to yellow and purple braiding. The silver chain has a decorative knob at the center, from which a large Ottoman coin is suspended.

18. Şmādeh made of dark blue broadcloth, green coloured cotton and lined with indigo dyed cotton. The horseshoe-shaped black padded roll (saffeh) is sewn with a variety of coins from different periods and parts of the world and divided in the centre by a piece of watch strap. Different brass, copper and silver coins are also stitched to the back and front. Red, white, purple and yellow lacework as well as different chains are stitched onto the headdress for decoration, late 19th century to early 20th century

19. The Saffeh is the heavy row of large, overlapping silver or gold Ottoman-era coins that are stitched onto the front and top of the Şmādeh. This beautiful Saffeh (cap) is from the Ramallah area and is made of cotton and fully embroidered with threads of red silk interspersed with other colours. With it comes a white iqal (cord accessory) covered in white cotton cloth to which a piece of velvet cloth was added to the back. From the rear velvet piece hangs 4 large pieces of Ottoman-era currency. At the front of the saffeh is a row of authentic Ottoman coins lined from the inside with a patterned cotton cloth. The saffeh used to be part of the bride’s dowry, to be worn on her wedding day and throughout the days following the ceremony.

20. Headdress ornament, 19th century. Nickel silver-plate with metal chains and coins, and glass and stone beads, Ramallah, Palestine.
    Made up of a nickel silver-plate disc with metal chains, Ottoman coins, charms and beads, this headdress ornament would have been worn as part of a bridal outfit, fixed to the top of a bonnet made of embroidered fabric, and shaped to fit the head. One of the charms is a French medal of Saint Joseph, and the other is the Hand of Fatima. The coins, except for one Spanish coin that shows the name of King Phillip V of Spain, are Ottoman, dated between AH 1180 and 1260 (AD 1766–1844). The coins in such headdresses had two functions, one simply about decoration, and the other as an indicator of the bride's wealth; her social status and the value of her dowry. The presence of the Christian saint's medal centred in the front section of the disk draws attention to the probability that this headdress may have belonged to a Christian bride. In Palestine, which is full of intermingling Christian and Muslim villages, this headdress is a good example of the cultural diversity of the Ottoman Middle East. Other European coins popular in Middle Eastern jewellery include coins depicting the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa.

The brides of Ramallah (a predominantly Christian town) would have worn headdresses such as this one for their wedding celebrations. A woman would be free to either add more coins or to take some off for personal use, for home improvements for example. Many of these headdresses were passed down through generations, and when gold coins came into fashion, many of the silver coins were replaced.