tldr; What pups, pots, caps, resistors would you recommend for this build? Any tips on bridge, tailpiece, tuners are also welcome. Thanks in advance!

I’m planning to build a Jazzmaster partscaster. I chose Warmoth’s split Jazzmaster body (with top routing) in black korina (limba) for its grain, colour, and mahogany-like sustain. I’m going with Warmoth’s Jazzmaster 59 Roundback neck (closest thing to my archtop guitars’ neck profiles) in roasted maple (unfinished) for its colour and sustain, with a wide (1-3/4") nut, ebony fretboard, and jumbo stainless frets. I’m going with locking tuners, and I want them to be smooth. A hard stop tailpiece is essential for sustain and tuning stability. I usually play 12-52 flatwounds on my archtops, but will drop to 11s on this electric. I want two humbuckers; the neck pup for warm, dark tones and the bridge pup for occasional rock-and-roll. I’d also like push-pull switching for series-parallel. I want the notes to remain distinct so that upper extensions (9ths, 11ths, 13ths) don’t get lost. I don’t want any harsh bite on higher notes.

I think I saw this horror movie in the 1980s or perhaps very early 1990s. It had the feel of "From Beyond." The word "hemoglobin" was somehow used as an part of the explanation for whatever was causing the horrible thing in the movie. It wasn't the movie "Hemoglobin" AKA "Bleeders." There was a scene with something squirming under someone's skin like in the movie "Squirm."

I think I saw this horror movie in the 1980s or perhaps very early 1990s. It had the feel of "From Beyond." The word "hemoglobin" was somehow used as an part of the explanation for whatever was causing the horrible thing in the movie. It wasn't the movie "Hemoglobin" AKA "Bleeders." There was a scene with something squirming under someone's skin like in the movie "Squirm."

tldr; What pups, pots, caps, resistors would you recommend for this build? Any tips on bridge, tailpiece, tuners are also welcome. Thanks in advance!

I’m planning to build a Jazzmaster partscaster. I chose Warmoth’s split Jazzmaster body (with top routing) in black korina (limba) for its grain, colour, and mahogany-like sustain. I’m going with Warmoth’s Jazzmaster 59 Roundback neck (closest thing to my archtop guitars’ neck profiles) in roasted maple (unfinished) for its colour and sustain, with a wide (1-3/4") nut, ebony fretboard, and jumbo stainless frets. I’m going with locking tuners, and I want them to be smooth. A hard stop tailpiece is essential for sustain and tuning stability. I usually play 12-52 flatwounds on my archtops, but will drop to 11s on this electric. I want two humbuckers; the neck pup for warm, dark tones and the bridge pup for occasional rock-and-roll. I’d also like push-pull switching for series-parallel. I want the notes to remain distinct so that upper extensions (9ths, 11ths, 13ths) don’t get lost. I don’t want any harsh bite on higher notes.

tldr; What pups, pots, caps, resistors would you recommend for this build? Any tips on bridge, tailpiece, tuners are also welcome. Thanks in advance!

I’m planning to build a Jazzmaster partscaster. I chose Warmoth’s split Jazzmaster body (with top routing) in black korina (limba) for its grain, colour, and mahogany-like sustain. I’m going with Warmoth’s Jazzmaster 59 Roundback neck (closest thing to my archtop guitars’ neck profiles) in roasted maple (unfinished) for its colour and sustain, with a wide (1-3/4") nut, ebony fretboard, and jumbo stainless frets. I’m going with locking tuners, and I want them to be smooth. A hard stop tailpiece is essential for sustain and tuning stability. I usually play 12-52 flatwounds on my archtops, but will drop to 11s on this electric. I want two humbuckers; the neck pup for warm, dark tones and the bridge pup for occasional rock-and-roll. I’d also like push-pull switching for series-parallel. I want the notes to remain distinct so that upper extensions (9ths, 11ths, 13ths) don’t get lost. I don’t want any harsh bite on higher notes.

Any suggestions on making this Jazzmaster-for-jazz guitar design any better? I tend to play traditional jazz, chord-melody, single note lines, and some blues and rock.

Neck

Warmoth Jazzmaster® Replacement Neck 

• Neck profile/construction: Modern.
• Shaft Wood Roasted Maple.
• Fretboard Wood: Ebony (Black).
• Scallops: None.
• Binding: None.
• Inlay Shape: None.
• Side Dots: White Side Dots.
• String Nut: Standard Nut - GraphTech White TUSQ XL.
• Neck Heel Shape: Strat® Shape.
• note: drill for heel contour.

Tuners

• Finish: Chrome.
• Tuning Key Size: Bass Side.
• Locking system: Magnum Lock
• Post type: H.A.P-M (Height Adjustable Post + Magnum Lock)

Strings

• number:
• type: flatwounds.
• brand: Thomastik.

Body

Warmoth Split Jazzmaster® Guitar Body 

• Construction: Solid.
• Core Wood: Black Korina.
• Lam Top Wood: No Lam Top.
• Right / Left Handed: Right-Handed.
• Control Cavity: Top Rout.
• Neck Pickup Rout: Humbucker (Wood Mount).
• Middle Pickup Rout:  None.
• Bridge Pickup Rout: Humbucker (Wood Mount).
• Bridge Rout Type: Hardtail.
• Bridge Rout: TOM/STP (Angled Pocket).
• Would you like Warmoth to install the bridge studs: Yes, from a bridge I have on order.
• Neck Pocket Shape: Strat®.
• Body Contours: Forearm Contour, Tummy Cut, Custom Contoured Heel.
• Battery Box: None.
• Paint Category: Clear.
• Top Color: Clear.
• Back Color: Clear.
• Satin or Gloss: Gloss.

Bridge and Tailpiece

• bridge: TonePros Tune-O-Matic bridge.
• tailpiece: TonePros Stop Tailpiece.

Pickups

neck pup: Lollar Imperial Low-Wind Neck, 4 conductor wire, chrome cover, no-thread/wood-mount/unthreaded holes.

bridge pup: Lollar Imperial Standard Wind Bridge, 4 conductor wire, chrome cover, no-thread/wood-mound/unthreaded holes.

Capacitors & resistors

cap-and-resistor treble bleed circuit on the volume pot: 100k–150k resistor, wired in parallel with .0015µF–.002µF cap, across the volume pot's input and output lugs.

neck cap (tone 1): .015µF Orange Drop capacitor.

bridge cap (tone 2): .022µF Orange Drop capacitor.

Potentiometers

volume pot: 500K Audio Pot x1 (for volume, audio/log taper), e.g. CTS - A500K SOLID Shaft Pot (aluminum shaft).

neck pot (tone 1): Pull-Push B500K Linear Pot x1 (for tone 1, linear taper); if split shaft, will need conversion.

bridge pot (tone 2): Pull-Push A500K Audio Pot x1 (for tone 2, audio/log taper); if split shaft, will need conversion.

Wiring

• tone knobs have pull-push series/parallel switching, where default (push) is series.

Knobs

• knobs are knurled chrome.

Switch

3-

• way switch.
• chrome with black tip.

Pickguard:

• Shape: split Jazzmaster, treble side only.
• Colour/material: black-white-black.