u/Known_Bumblebee9797

I ask these questions with no anger, and I'll broach no insults on my grandmother, please.

I'm not catholic, but Grandma was absolutely. (Sicilian American born in the 20's)

She's passed, I have her family bible.

I'm fairly certain she is trying to hide the fact that my father was born out of wedlock.

She, at some point, tore something of of this page in her bible.

I'm just wondering, what would that have looked like? It's some kind of wedding certificate or some such, obviously...

https://preview.redd.it/avh2ntc0dbbh1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79f3c768f3152ef04381d7e4b6edc779148761ba

if the printer is quiescent, and you turn on any preheating option, a fan comes on. This fan cannot be controlled through the GUI, I assume it's cooling the electronics.

Mine is dying. it sounds like my 20 year old Ford diesel.

I cannot find the name for this fan in order to start the process for how to replace/improve it. It "sounds" like it's venting through the same vent as the case fan and aux fan, but I don't see any fans moving.

Any idea what Elgoo calls it, or roughly where it is?

I've run multiple google searches trying to find a "wait" or "pause" command...

intent is to heat the baseplate and then wait a while for temp to rise in the chamber.

So far, the printer blows through the commands I've used.

How do I make the printer wait for, say, 30 minutes?

This is my first printout using ASA-CF. I'd hoped my standard ASA calibration would work, I guess not, so I'll do a full calibration run... (PLA seems to print pretty much teh same, no matter the flavor, as long as you keep the volumetric speed low enough... I hoped I'd get lucky...)

However, I'm not aware of any calibration that will fix this "curl" off the baseplate. Is that a different issue? Something else I should do to protect against it?

I've seen this failure mode in resin many times, and I know how to deal with it there... but this is my first time seeing a filament printout "curl" off the plate.

The shape is simple, but long and thin... it's a license-plate-holder for my car.

Any thoughts/advice?

https://preview.redd.it/bbnm97s44rah1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c730b9b0635e73b02e5537d8a0a797ebb77ef808

Centuri Carbon 1, Orcaslicer. setting up a new filament, doing all the calibrations. Been through the process 3 or 4 times now, this is the first time I've had an issue like this. (I swear, baby, this has never happened to me before...)

The "lines, DDE" version of the Pressure Advance test throws a "movement out of bounds" error near the very end of the test. The "Tower, DDE" test slices ok.

The line is near the end, it's a move, but I'm no gcode expert.

Not sure why it is happening now, and hoping there's something I'm missing to fix it.

Advice appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/4vc6p7sin28h1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e217750d4ddbef81636f90cbd217e320f8afc2a

This is something I'm "inventing", so I can't really show photos, but the part has large beefy sections and smaller slender sections. I've been printing in PLA.

There is a good chance someone will leave it in their gym bag in their car in Phoenix in August. The main result "seems to be", based on my testing, that the slender parts can't take the heat, and they distort the thicker, sturdier parts as they warp.

Am I better off going with Chicago Screws to replace the parts that I can do so (self-enclosing steel screw-together cylinders) or is there a better cheap/easy resin for high heat exposure?

(Backstory)

For the first time in about 2 decades,I have a fairly nice gaming computer (a Lenovo desktop with a 5070 TI).

Most of what I use my computer for is NOT gaming. Lots of youtube, Solidworks, emails, etc. Normal guy-with-a-job-and-a-few-hobbies-and-a-fascination-for-big-bootied-latinas stuff.

My current monitor is so old it doesn't even show up in google searches anymore, and Google's AI tells me it doesn't exist. It's a 1920x1200, 24" HP monitor that would be sold to a business account for their employees. 60hz refresh rate. I honestly think I got it because an employer mailed it to my house for a short-term contract, and it wasn't worth shipping back to them at the end of the job.

I usually play games several years older than "brand new", because most of my computers have been purchased at costco. The newest game I own right now is likely Cyberpunk 2077 or Shadow Of The Tomb Raider. I don't play online competitive games (I used to rock online Starcraft... but that was a long time ago.)

(Situation)
For the most part, my monitor is just fine. I never find myself wishing for better resolution or refresh rate. I have only one complaint: My computer is in the corner of a room with a giant "french door" at my back and a large window at my elbow. I cannot play any game even reasonably dark (Tomb Raider, Cyberpunk, anything in space, etc.) from about 1pm til sunset.

(Question)
Given that I have no interest in a $1,200 monitor, can likely fit a 27" monitor (but no larger) on my desk, and I have a boomer-level hatred of those giant screens that wrap around your desk with the curve to them... Is there a fairly inexpensive monitor that is usable for playing "black rich" games in a brightly lit room that won't burn in like an OLED screen?

I started with a center-rectangle attached to the 0,0,0 vertex, extruded it.

Made another center-rectangle, also attached to the vertex to make an extruded cut.

Basically made myself a rectangular donut.

Then added lots of fillets, holes, cross-pieces through the open center, etc. About 2 hours work. (I'm still pretty new).

I'd like to change the extruded cut to make the "donut" a giant rectangular "U" shape with an open end. Basically, I want to extend the "cutting rectangle" in one direction, but leave the other 3 edges exactly the same.

Because I used a center rectangle for the cut, it won't let me extend it in one direction. Because it's attached to the vertex, it' won't let me move it laterally (that I can find, anyway).

I don't want to redo all my work... is there a way to edit the extruded cut? A best-practice that I missed?

I know that skinny battery-review kid on youtube really likes them, but a 300ah battery for $500? Are they seriously that good? (This is for use in an RV)

Also, I saw in one review where you could use the bluetooth app to adjust the charge and discharge rate of the battery... but now they have 3 versions of the battery... not smart, smart, and some kind of super-smart. Are those adjustments still available? (I charge my RV batteries through a very high capacity alternator, so it's difficult to control the charge current at the source)

If these are actually trustworthy, it might solve all my "main quest" RV battery issues...

I have an RV built into a Sprinter van. It currently has two 100AH Battleborn Lithium ion batteries as "house" batteries, and they serve me well. (they are under-slung on the vehicle frame). The engine is the Benz 3.0 6cyl diesel. Everything in the engine is stock. No insane turbo or exhaust or any such. "van" and "house" circuitry is electrically separate from each other, unless purposely bridged by a "self-jump" switch.

In a Sprinter, on the Driver's side (american/Left/Port side), the engine bay has an open area where Benz will occasionally tuck a 2nd lead-acid battery to serve as a backup for the van chassis itself. I can take photos if it helps the conversation, but that side of the engine bay is full of all manner of plastic parts, including the windshield washer tank, which literally hangs from the port side of the engine.

I purchased a bracket that will let me tuck two GC2 sized batteries into that spot in the engine bay. Battleborn makes a 100ah GC2 battery. I could double my capacity with a bit of wiring.

BUT

Battleborn says they do not want their batteries installed in the engine bay of any vehicle because... THE PLASTIC SHELL MIGHT MELT.

So, either they are being insanely over-cautious and lawyerly, or they are ignoring decades of known-good battery case designs and material science.

Any thoughts? Am I going to set my family on fire if I put BB's batteries in this spot in the engine bay? Is there a company that DOES spec L-ion batteries for installation in the engine bay? Should I put some kind of additional cooling fan on the batteries?