
iPhone battery manufacturing Date
I bought this from second hand market and the battery is showing used on parts and service and manufacturing date looks like this

I bought this from second hand market and the battery is showing used on parts and service and manufacturing date looks like this
I have two LED lights that require three AA batteries each. I only plan to have them on at night but I’m so tired of them becoming dim before I even go to bed. What are the best batteries to use for my LED lights that will last more than one day and keep them bright? Rechargeable is a plus so I don’t have to keep buying batteries.
Gawdamnit.... And these were meant to be "industrial" for our use in hospital... FML
Contaminated the entire box as well.
Edit: I'm a doc. This thing was meant for an emergency laryngoscope. If you know what that is you can probably understand how pissed I was when I went for it.
I'm guessing there was an administration choice made here. And thanks everyone on suggesting lithiums.
Think this is good enough to make a case study.
Btw anyone got any hard data on lithium leaks vs alkaleaks?
Okay, I know this is probably my OCD, and this is not a big deal, but i was wondering what's the best thing in this scenario: Let's say I have 4 rechargeable batteries, 2 of them I use in my wireless keyboard and mouse, the other 2 are left in the box brand new. The batteries that are in the keyboard and mouse require recharge every 6 months or so. Now my question is, do I cycle between the 4 batteries so they wear evenly, or just use 2, and keep the other 2 new. What's the best for keeping the battery health good overall?
This is just an example, I do have more rechargeable batteries that I've used few times, and now they are charged and left in the box. I guess my question is, do i keep all of the batteries in the loop, or use few of them and keep the other ones in the box.
Also, from personal view, do you use dedicated batteries for each device that uses rechargeable batteries or do you swap batteries between devices?
Edit: Sorry guys, forgot to mention they are LADDA rechargeable batteries from IKEA, so I think they are Ni-MH. I've heard they are just rebranded Eneloops.
Hi all, I have a 2006 S50, It is my first bike and I've been riding for about 3 months. I bought this bike second hand, and have done alot of work on the bike with the exception of the battery. After some roughs starts with the battery recently and several attempts to charge it, it finally gave up the ghost about two days ago.
When I removed the battery, the previous owners had installed a smaller battery, a GS QT12B-4, and was secured in the battery space using some rubber. I heard they attempted to install a larger battery and things caught fire. Btw, I do not have a battery cover.
Since I've started been working on the bike I've tried my best to get everything original. I'm not in the US, and importing batteries where I am has some red tape, so I got a Continental YTX16-BS which are the same measurements as the original but I'm sure those of you who know are probably saying it, the terminals are going to be wrong, and yep, they are top and front, not to the side as Boulevard batteries are.
I've installed the battery earlier, using the front terminal connector, with alot of rubber covering the positive terminal, and the battery is millimeters away from the chassis. Based on how tight a fit it is I am concerned about safety, given no battery cover and how tight it is?
Now my question to y'all, should I get a shorter battery, maybe the YTX14-BS or something else.
Basically what are your thoughts/recommendations?
I've been trying to find such a type of battery for a handheld device I'm working on. 1000 mAH is the minimum requirement. I really like the above mentioned battery as it's easily swappable, easy to install & low profile.
I can't seem to find them anywhere aside from Amazon, etc which is likely a clone. I don't require them in bulk yet but I do want to ensure availability doesn't become a issue if the sales become high.
From what I understand these batteries are certified, so I don't need to certify them myself.
My Xiaomi Mi 3i 20,000 mAh powerbank fell from shelf (height of about 2-3 metres) and its casing has opened up from the side like this. I tried pressing it in to close it but its not fixing.
Last year, it also fell like this and opened up the same way, but it closed upon pressing. This time its not closing.
Hello. I bought a 2021 Toyota Corolla SE in September 2021. I've driven it sparingly, having put about 7,500 miles on it. A couple months ago, the dealer told me that it's cold cranking amps were too low. I don't recall the exact number; it was between 200 and 250. I received a recommendation to get an EverStart Platinum battery in the H5 size. Do you recommend that or something else? Thanks.
I have a Ryobi 40v battery that stopped chaeging. I measured all the cells (10 cells) as shown in the picure.
Tried resetting but no good. Is this a sign of a bad PCB? Or a damaged component in the thermal management system?
Hopefully this is the right place for a question like this, if not I would really appreciate being pointed in the right direction because I'm ready to tear my hair out at this point.
For background - I have a Bissell stick vacuum that stopped working a few years ago. I assumed it was the batteries, so I took it apart and found that the unit is powered by 6 INR18650 cells that are not sealed, just welded with nickel strips and then soldered to the main board. I rebuilt the pack with new batteries and it worked... for about 10 minutes. I hadn't though about needing to make sure they were topped off or balanced and came to later find that the vac is able to sense an imbalance in the pack, but cannot recharge it - it just stops working.
To resolve it I bought an iMAX B6 LiPo Balance Charger on Amazon, soldered some leads to the positive and negative terminals, and connected up a 7 pin JST-XH connector for the balance charger port.
The issue I have is that when I try to start the Balance process on the charger it reports backR: 5SER S: 6SER
Indicating it only sees 5 of the 6 cells in the pack.
I have done everything I can think of to sort this out:
Here is a logical diagram of the cells with the voltages measured:
BAT+ -----------------------------------●
│
Pin 1 (20.28 V) ---------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.37 V)
│ l │
│ 6 │
Pin 2 (16.91 V) ---------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.41 V)
│ l │
│ 5 │
Pin 3 (13.50 V) ---------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.39 V)
│ l │
│ 4 │
Pin 4 (10.11 V) ---------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.40 V)
│ l │
│ 3 │
Pin 5 (6.71 V) ----------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.42 V)
│ l │
│ 2 │
Pin 6 (3.29 V) ----------------------------------●
│ C │
│ e │
│ l │ (3.29 V)
│ l │
│ 1 │
Pin 7 (0.0 V) -----------------------------------●
│
(MM COM) BAT- ----------------------------------●
I will readily admit that I have gotten myself confused and turned around when it comes to pin order. From what I am seeing in the instructions pin 1 (far right when looking at the connector end, with the lock on the top) is the positive end of the pack. That said, if I reverse the order I still get 5SER from the charger, it only tells me that the polarity is reversed it I swap the output ports.
From the measurements though, you can see there is some imbalance in the pack, but I get clean voltage measurements in the proper order from the pins, so I don't think its a bad connection. I also checked resistance from each of the pins to their respective battery terminal and none of them read above .3 ohms. I even tested on a 2nd B6 unit and it also reports 5SER for the pack, so I don't believe its a faulty charger.
I did see a comment somewhere that the B6 only supports a 6 cell pack in certain modes, but I cannot validate that comment anywhere in the instructions or online, so I don't know if I believe that claim.
At this point I'm all out of ideas, outside of asking Reddit I'm thinking I have 2 options:
So, I would really appreciate any expert guidance you all could provide!
EDIT: I can no longer reproduce the potential I measured previously. I was likely mistaken.
Hey everybody,
I got a cheap battery charger off Amazon, that I found out pulls the negative terminals of the batteries below ground, instead of pushing the positive terminals above ground.
Is this standard for battery chargers?
Does anyone know of a (24V/8s, preferably >10A) LiFePO4 charger that for certain pulls positive above ground?
As a (hopefully) catch-all question: is there some other reason that my hopes and dreams of having the negative terminals of my battery at the same potential as ground/neutral while charging doomed?
The reason this is something I am trying to change is that I am running a PC off of the batteries in question, and the power supply I'm using uses the negative side of the batteries as ground. Meaning, if I plug it into, say, a monitor that's plugged into an outlet... 20V+ potential across the ground pins. Not ideal. Sub-optimal, even.
Hi all,
I’m building a 24V (8S) 280Ah LiFePO4 battery with a JK BMS. Because I live in an apartment, I’m planning to charge it at home, then physically move it to my van for use for the conversion process(mainly power tools). However it's too heavy to move it down the stair unless it's disassembled into smaller pieces and then reassembled in the van as an 8S system.
I understand the main risk is accidental short circuits during handling, so I plan to use terminal caps or tape.
Is disassembling,moving and reassembling a charged DIY pack like this actually considered safe practice, or is it a bad idea?
I made a mistake and need some advice. I have a 12V 42Ah lead-acid battery (Alaska A60L) connected to my solar setup. I poured about 200ml of normal saline water (sodium chloride solution) into 2 of the cells.
When the solar started charging during the day, I noticed a strange smell – probably chlorine gas. About 8-12 hours later, I flushed the battery completely with normal water and rinsed it out. I checked the voltage with a multimeter and it’s showing 12V.
So my questions are:
Does salt water damage the electrolyte instantly, or does it degrade over time?
Is there any chance this battery is still safe to use?
I'm sick of all the fake capacity for portable chargers on Amazon and elsewhere. Does anybody have a good link to a pack ~25000 mAh that isn't too expensive? I don't want to spend Anker prices.
is it possible to check yuasa manufacturing date via these stamps?
so i bought the left one last july 2025 for my honda adv150 motorcycle, unfortunately i got stranded on the road because it was drained and as per battery tester it reach life expectancy. so i bought another one today and i was wondering if these stamps matter if im buying newly manufactured battery? the new one has stamped
1004269AD
1504690
while the old battery that got me stranded is
1804269W
2691590
I have a spot welder for DIY projects.
Thought I would replace my cells in my eBike/eScooter/eSkate myself to save money. But from what I can find online using this link the cost of batteries are incorrect on that direct link. But when I follow the links to buy them, they are like 6 bucks a piece. Which my pack on my ebike is ~104 cells, making that a 600 dollar project. Where a full replacement is the same cost.
Am I missing something here?
Maybe I am replacing them with better quality batteries? I guess I would have to open up the case to see exactly what batteries were used. But I am surprised to see this costing more than a new complete battery
Hi everyone. I have an iPhone 11, and I'm really worried about it and the data on it.
A few days ago, my phone started acting strangely. First, it randomly ended a call and all my contacts disappeared until I restarted the phone. After that, it started shutting down randomly. Eventually, it would only stay on while connected to a charger.
Now, it won't boot properly at all. When I plug it in, it just shows the Apple logo, turns off, then shows the Apple logo again in an endless loop. It never reaches the lock screen anymore.
Another important detail is that the screen is lifting away from the body of the phone, especially near the top, so I'm worried that the battery might be swollen.
I have two questions:
I do not want to restore or erase the phone because preserving my photos and data is my top priority. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
(I didn't get it fixed yet because I have exams)
edit: I also remember the storage full message popping up, so what is it
Hello Community,
I can’t get it if the BMS is not working properly, or if I have done something wrong, or if it is normal (I doubt it).
Cells are mounted from right to left but I have wired everything accordingly.
Measured are:
B1- / B1+ = 3.9V
B1- / B2+ = 7.7V
B1- / B3+ = 11.6V
B1- / B+ = 15.4V
P- / P+ = 3.8V How’s that, shouldn’t it be 15.4V?