r/batteries

Does extra pressure somehow create more electricity

Hey guys just got a multimeter to test some batteries in this box that was left out for some time. At 2.485 V would it be just degraded or potentially unsafe? Haven’t tried recharging it yet

Factory cutoff shows 2.8

I just bought a Panasonic BQ-CC55 charger, but it makes a ticking sound while charging the batteries; is that normal?

Hi,

I am looking to purchase/upgrade my existing home UPS and battery. I have 2 televisions(65 inches LG oled and a Sony KD-43XR8500F television, 4 - 5 led lights, 5 fans. Everything might not be on at the same time. Assuming they are, please recommend a good system I can install, quality oriented, an amazing warranty which defines the confidence of the brand and the best pricing I can get. Please suggest a few options from your experience. Thanks in advance!

One television will be hooked up to a voltage stabilizer.

Disclaimer- not super knowledgeable about lithium so go easy if I’ve got anything wrong here.

I have a 12v lithium battery that was run down to 3v, had an alternator issue where it didn’t charge in vehicle.

Recharged the battery on a bench and it took the charge fine, but a warning LED light on the battery lit, indicating a BMS electronic problem was indicated and stayed lit.

I opened the battery case and checked the voltage across the cells, c1 3.35v, c2 3.37v, c3 3.46v, c4 3.58v. I disconnected the pos and neg leads to the terminals, waited 5 minutes, reconnected, no LED any more.

The cells balanced a bit when left for 18 hours. Hooked up a 12v halogen globe, under load the readings were c1 3.33v, c2 3.34v, c3 3.34v, c4 3.38v.

I let it run under load for 15 minutes and the cells read 3.31v on all cells while powering the light, removed load and got 3.32v on all cells.

As far as battery life and health it seems fine to me, my only question is around the BMS. Surely if there was an issue it would have lit the LED again? Or are they not self clearing? Is it likely to have some hard state locked in where it won’t warn of an issue if one arises again due to it already having an issue previously?

I don’t mind replacing the battery if it needs to be, but the wait time for this battery from the supplier is close to a month.

Gear-nerd question with a side of bitterness.

I charged a Zendure SuperBase Pro 1500 to 100% and stored it indoors at room temperature. A year later it reads 0% and won’t accept a charge from AC or 12V DC. The display still powers on, so something inside is alive. It just refuses to charge.

Two other brands’ power stations, same shelf, same year: both still hold a charge.

Zendure’s manual says low-charge storage “shortens lifespan” and the unit “mitigates the damage by putting the battery into hibernation mode.” Support’s final verdict: over-discharged, “no longer recoverable,” my fault for not cycling it every 3 months.

What I’m curious about:

• Going from 100% to dead in under a year means a big parasitic draw. Could the always-on 4G/GPS module explain that?
• If the BMS has a hibernation mode, shouldn’t it disconnect the load well before the cells hit a damaging voltage?
• Is a BMS lockout like this usually recoverable with a slow trickle charge, or has the pack really gone below the point of no return?

I’m not opening it myself without advice. I’d love to know whether this is bad design or bad luck.

Current status: a very expensive doorstop with a working screen.

>Charged my Zendure SuperBase Pro 1500 to 100% and put it in storage, which is apparently the one thing it can’t survive.
>
>A year later: 0%. AC charging, nothing. 12V charging, nothing. The screen still turns on, which is like a smoke detector that beeps only to announce it’s out of batteries.
>
>Meanwhile two power stations from other brands, on the same shelf for the same year, are still sitting there with charge left.
>
>The manual promises a “hibernation mode” that protects the battery in storage. It hibernated all right. Permanently. It’s less a hibernation mode and more a “Do Not Resuscitate” order.
>
>Zendure support spent a month on it and decided that a battery, whose entire job is storing energy, failing in storage is my fault. They never said why the protection mode didn’t protect anything, or how much the always-on 4G module was sipping while it was “off.” My guess: all of it.
>
>On the bright side it has GPS, so I’ll always know exactly where my $1,000 brick is. It’s on the shelf. It’s always on the shelf.
>
>1/5. Buy something that can handle being left alone for a year. My houseplants did.

I bought a few from EBL brand Amazon and they were great until one day one of them exploded while charging via USB C cable

So my question is, is there a safe way/brand to use them without worrying about safety ?
Is this technology safe, or there is always risk of this happening, even if there is a reputable brand.

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I have an Analog Multitester that is very dependable. I recently tested 9 AAA batteries before putting some in a flashlight. Eight tested good at 1.5 volts, but the 9th caused the needle to go into negative territory. I was puzzled, so I flipped the battery (to reverse the polarity) and that caused the gauge to read 1.0 volts. What am I missing? Is this battery just defective?