u/Least-Anything2804

Hallo zusammen,

Ich sicher sein, dass ich keine Wasserleitung, Gasleitung. Wie kann ich das überprüfen?

Danke

I know that for load testing I can use: DC electronic loads, bulbs, resistors and whilst doing so I check the output voltage of my power supply I'm testing. That's it.

1. What I don't get is, how should the voltage, current ripple look like at a given load?
2. During dynamic testing, should the load be stepped up from 0-100%, 10-90% etc.?
3. Also what if you've got multiple rails involved? Take something like an ATX PSU with 12V, 5V, and 3.3V rails:
4. Do you load each rails at the same time?
5. Do you load only single rail at a time?
6. If you're doing a transient test on say 12V rail, what do you do with 5V and 3.3V rails during that test? Load them? Leave them? Load them and transient test them at the sime time 12V is being transient tested?

If anyone has a step-by-step procedure they run through, or even just a rough checklist, I'd love to see it. Also curious what gear people are using for this (specific e-loads or even multiple e-loads at the same time or just static loads such as: bulbs, resistors etc.)

Thanks in advance.

DiodeGoneWild doing a static load test on one of his videos, using light bulbs. Single 12V rail.

Hallo zusammen,

ich habe noch nie eine Schuko-Einbausteckdose (Panel-Montage) eingebaut und wollte fragen, wie ich am besten das Loch dafür vorbereite.

Bohrt man mehrere kleine Löcher und sägt dann aus, oder benutzt man einen Stufenbohrer? Ich habe es mit einem Stufenbohrer versucht, aber der war anscheinend nicht groß genug für den nötigen Durchmesser.

Über Tipps oder Erfahrungen würde ich mich sehr freuen. Danke euch!

https://preview.redd.it/5etlbt78q0fh1.png?width=1190&format=png&auto=webp&s=b31481b6fa4a33b041396deeee96983f260af29b

https://preview.redd.it/66hwo2q8q0fh1.png?width=2600&format=png&auto=webp&s=744a16639164b8fa930dbb229ef4deccb0246af8

Does anyone know if this function works on voltage and resistance measurements? Or is it only for current measurements? Thanks.

Edit: Also in specification it says trigger for frequency measurement 10-100Hz is >5A.

Can someone confirm if it's true? Have you been able to measure frequency when there is a load lower than 5A?

Kurjeriai, dirbantys LP, Venipak, DPD, Omniva ir pnš. – kas iš tikrųjų vyksta jūsų darbe, ko klientai nemato?

Konkrečiau, įdomu:

1. Dalykai, kurie užknisa: Kas labiausiai varo iš proto? Ar tai žmonės, kurie nenurodo buto nr., telefonai, kurie neatsiliepia, biuro darbuotojai, kurie užverčia siuntomis, ar gal klientai, kurie nori, kad pristatytumėte siuntą darbo pabaigoje?
2. Kokios jūsų darbo valandos? Dirbate nuo iki ar iki tol kol visas siuntas išvežiojate?
3. Ar mokami kažkokie papildomi priedai?

The cable that I'm going to solder to these clips is rg174. It's quite thin and flexible (exactly what I need for my lcr meter leads). It has a screw wire connection, but since the rg174 is very thin, I don't think that it's going to hold by screwing it down.

What are my best options?

1. Tinning the rg174 cable and try terminating via the screw

2. Soldering it directly on the plating.

Any other tips would be appreciated. Thank you.

https://preview.redd.it/g241vyrwwm6h1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1507aa6f40f2311ae107f04f140ca2c599481f95

https://preview.redd.it/gv6u4yrwwm6h1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c2e54649a606c1b39b34a67efa76ff6937118e8

I want to make fume extractor trigger automatically. Curious what solutions you guys are running.

My current plan is to use a CT relay clamped around the live wire of my soldering station. When the station draws above a certain current, the relay kicks in and powers the extractor.

Are there any other ways to do it? Some ideas I've been thinking about:

1. Reed switch on the iron holder and magnet on the handle, switch triggers when you lift it
2. Foot pedal (I want it to be automatic)

Curious if anyone's done something more creative than the obvious approaches.

I’m curious about other people’s experiences after having splint removed following double jaw surgery.

Did you notice any changes in your appearance right away (especially lip poisiton and lower jaw position)? Did removing it make a noticeable difference in how your face looked?

I'm wondering, can KMC003 be used to intentionally damage a smartphone? If yes, what kinds of damage would it cause on the circuitry of the smartphone or any other appliance?

This might be a basic question, but I'm curious how everyone handles powering various devices on their bench.

How do you guys typically connect these devices to your power supply? Do you build adapter cables as needed, keep a collection of common connectors or have some other system?

Also, where do you usually buy connectors and connector kits? Are there any assortments or starter kits?

I'd really love to see how other people organize their setup and avoid constantly making new cables and having a mess on their table.

Ar jie tyčiojasi? Tai nx, man imti paštomato paslaugą, jeigu aš galiu už tą pačią kainą siuntą į namus gauti.

Let's say, I have a bench PSU with remote sensing (4 wire measuring).

What would happen if I accidentally connected Sense+ to − and Sense− to +?

Anyone here experienced jealousy from other people after getting surgery, especially if it led to a noticeable improvement in your appearance, confidence, or quality of life.

Did friends, family, coworkers, or acquaintances ever seem envious of the changes? Did anyone make passive-aggressive comments, downplay your results, or act differently toward you afterward?

I want to add an analog ammeter so I can watch current draw in real time as I slowly increase the input voltage.

For those of you who do this regularly:

• What current range do you find most useful?
• I can get either a 1/5A meter or a 5/10A meter. Which would give the most useful indication when powering up unknown or faulty SMPS units?
• Is a low range meter generally better for spotting abnormal current draw early? Or would that sudden current draw damage my meter if it exceeds it's range?

Also, what would you typically expect the current to look like while slowly increasing voltage on a variac?

For example:

• Healthy SMPS: does the current stay very low until the startup threshold is reached and then increase smoothly?
• Faulty SMPS: what current patterns usually indicate trouble (shorted primary MOSFET, bad cap, shorted secondary, etc)?

I'm mainly interested in what the ammeter needle does as voltage is increased from 0V upward and how you distinguish a normal startup profile from a suspicious one.

Any examples from your own repair bench would be appreciated.

I’m trying to decide whether to buy an isolation transformer and could use some input.

Option 1: standalone toroidal transformer

• 500 VA rating
• ~125€
• No enclosure, fuse, or sockets (just the transformer)

Option 2: prebuilt unit (PeakTech)

• 500 VA rating
• ~241€
• Comes with casing, fuse, switch, and sockets ready to use

The prebuilt one is basically double the price, and it seems like I’m mostly paying for the enclosure and safety components.

So I’m wondering: wouldn’t it make more sense to just buy a standalone toroidal transformer and, for the same money, even step up to something like a 1 kVA unit? Or is there a good reason to go with the prebuilt option (safety, shielding, grounding, etc.)?

Additional concern: MCB tripping / inrush current
If I go with a 1 kVA toroidal transformer, is there a realistic chance it will trip my household MCB on startup due to inrush current? If yes, what’s the best way to mitigate that in practice?

My current idea is:

• Use a series incandescent bulb as a current limiter on first power-up
• Once the transformer is energized , bypass the bulb

Additional concern 2:
I would feed my variac from that isolation transformer (variac also rated at 1kVA).

• Would the variac also require the same procedure to start up? After the isolation transformer has been powered on?
• Or is the main inrush problem only at the toroidal transformer stage, making the variac effectively “safe” once the isolation transformer is upTrying to understand the correct safe startup sequence and whether a permanent soft-start circuit would be better than the light bulb method.

Any practical experience or corrections appreciated.

standalone 500VA toroidal transformer

prebuilt 500VA isolation transformer