Base training/periodisation input request
I am looking for input about periodisation and improving base climbing endurance.
About me:-
I am 26, have been climbing around 5 years (mostly indoor bouldering but started outdoor sport climbing last year). I have flashed v7 and climbed v9 outdoors and have climbed 7c sport outdoors.
There is no outdoor bouldering close to me but a local sport climbing crag a few hours from home, and I have some 7c+ and 8a projects there.
My main sport climbing issue is that I get pumped on everything - sometimes 6b and 7b feel similarly hard because the limiting factor is pump.
My goal is to improve at sport climbing (climb 8a this year) without losing bouldering power.
Facilities: -
My local bouldering gym is small, has walls ranging only from slab to 20* and has an adjustable kilter board that can only be dropped beyond 20* when the gym is quiet (i.e friday night). I have access to a commercial gym but don’t go often. I recently started jogging 2-4x per week.
My current training:-
Monday: Try the new gym set
Wednesday: outdoor sport climbing easyish volume (5-6 pitches) or indoor social climbing
Friday: kilter board projecting
Saturday/Sunday: Outdoor sport climbing projecting or indoor climbing (very unstructured)
My plan for periodisation:-
July/August: cut back on projecting and instead include in all gym sessions easy circuits (3-4 x 5+ minutes) on 20* wall/kilter board until I feel a noticeable improvement in endurance
August/September: add hangboard sessions in to start improving finger strength - i.e 2x2 7-10 second max hangs for 3 finger drag, 4 finger open hand, and half crimp (around 2x per week)
September/October: slowly refocus back to hard kilter board to push max strength
November/December: focus on outdoor projects
with a goal of climbing 8a sport.
I’m just wondering if anyone has any advice on periodisation for my goals or how I could restructure my training? I think one issue I struggle with is letting go of the hard climbing (i.e kilter board projecting), because that’s what I enjoy doing.
I appreciate anyone who has read this far and any input you may have. Let me know if you know of any training resources which may be useful.
EDIT: in terms of style: my local outdoor sport climbing is mostly 10-20* technical climbing on polished slopers, whereas my strength is in powerful overhung climbing on crimps and edges (which i train on the kilter board, where I usually flash v8 and project v10).