Image 1 — Best Replacement Repair Tape Solution for Wardrobe Back Panels?
Image 3 — Best Replacement Repair Tape Solution for Wardrobe Back Panels?
▲ 0 r/fixit

Best Replacement Repair Tape Solution for Wardrobe Back Panels?

I have an IKEA double wardrobe with mirrored doors with overall dimensions about 8'(H) x 5'(W) x 2'(D) and very heavy in large part due to the doors).

There are two back panels - one for each wardrobe side - each measuring 28"(W) x 96"(H) x 1/16"(T); each of these panels in turn are comprised of two 14" (W) x 96" (H) x 1/16" (T) panels taped together vertically (in order to fold for packaging). The tape is a very thin lightweight grid tape which has split along its entire length and which I reinforced with a layer of clear packing tape which itself has now de-laminated. Due to the back panels being so thin (1/16"!) they have also buckled.

The wardrobe's frame (sides, top/bottom) is 3/4" thick composite chipboard surfaced on both sides with the same 1/16" white [paper?] laminated hardboard as used for the back panels.

Perhaps down the road I'll replace the back panels with individual 8' x 28' x 1/8" thick white laminated hardboard panels.

But for now I want to make a good durable repair by replacing the split tape seam and if possible removing the buckles from the panel (for example by trimming them to correctly fit the frame - they are a buckling in part due to being a little too tall and racking of the frame telegraphing forces onto the panels).

Any suggestions on a strong durable tape with a high quality 'permanent' adhesive (no duct tape)?

If I decide to apply a quick & dirty horizontal brace(s) on the back what's good to use for that purpose that will be thin but rigid (and not show on the sides and degrade the clean lines)?

Conversely, a step up would be to add a large cross brace or X-brace on the back which will not only help press/flatten the buckled back panels but also help prevent racking, and promote longevity by eliminating significant stress to the frame when moved within the room or when loaded with stuff. Any ideas for a thin material to use for this?

Thanks a bunch for any ideas!

u/Lovegasoline — 7 days ago
▲ 1 r/IKEA

Best Replacement Repair Tape Solution for Wardrobe Back Panels?

I have an IKEA double wardrobe with mirrored doors with overall dimensions about 8'(H) x 5'(W) x 2'(D) and very heavy in large part due to the doors).

There are two back panels - one for each wardrobe side - each measuring 28"(W) x 96"(H) x 1/16"(T); each of these panels in turn are comprised of two 14" (W) x 96" (H) x 1/16" (T) panels taped together vertically (in order to fold for packaging). The tape is a very thin lightweight grid tape which has split along its entire length and which I reinforced with a layer of clear packing tape which itself has now de-laminated. Due to the back panels being so thin (1/16"!) they have also buckled likely due in part to the wardrobe's racking due to be used on a floor that isn't flat and/or having been moved and relocated which stressed the alignment.

The wardrobe's frame (sides, top/bottom) are a 3/4" thick composite chipboard surfaced on both sides with what appears to be the same 1/16" white [paper?] laminated hardboard as used for the back panels.

It is occasionally moved within the room when changing the room layout (a moving blanket placed underneath it and slid).

Perhaps down the road I'll replace the back panels with individual 8' x 28' x 1/8" thick white laminated hardboard panels.

But for now I want to make a good durable repair by replacing the split tape seam and if possible removing the buckles from the panel (for example by trimming them to correctly fit the frame - they are a buckling in part due to being a little too tall and racking of the frame telegraphing forces onto the panels).

Any suggestions on a strong durable tape with a high quality 'permanent' adhesive (no duct tape)?

If I decide to apply a quick & dirty horizontal brace(s) on the back what's good to use for that purpose that will be thin but rigid (and not show on the sides and degrade the clean lines)?

Conversely, a step up would be to add a large cross brace or X-brace on the back which will not only help press/flatten the buckled back panels but also help prevent racking, and promote longevity by eliminating significant stress to the frame when moved within the room or when loaded with stuff. Any ideas for a thin material to use for this?

Thanks a bunch for any ideas!

u/Lovegasoline — 7 days ago

Need Help Sourcing a Type of (Anti-Vibration?) Lock Washer

I have an old Harbor Freight oscillating multi-tool that has a worn out washer with raised quasi-radial ridges which function to grip the blade. The washer is worn smooth in some areas and nearly smooth in the others, so it is no longer grips the blade which loosens 100% in 10-30 seconds of usage. It's an old tool (20++ yrs old).

I am not a machinist but figured you guys would know of a piece of of the shelf hardware that would work for this.

Alternately, anyone with a good quick & dirty solution I might have in my shop hardware (washer sandwich of sorts, etc.) that would get me up and running ASAP?

Here's the dimensions of this washer (Note it should have serious serrations on one side to grip the blade):

OD = 1"

ID = 0.315" (5/16")

Thickness = 0.75"

Thanks a bunch for any ideas!

https://preview.redd.it/82zm112imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b3a30bc50e655259f035b37d6727c4c545ca54a2

https://preview.redd.it/ipv9m02imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5580d3e07b2741b431f9670252ca8a368a6bb45d

https://preview.redd.it/qys5r02imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d03700692457d08eb186b5425db6f2ee0e20347

https://preview.redd.it/o5wfl02imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2c9920d012e0fb78a87a1fb55069043ec32ab9a

https://preview.redd.it/4uys212imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8300cfec902a7d9e26d35558c01bed6dc35aa00

https://preview.redd.it/cqhbp02imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ef19dbcdc368147bed2d07d63d8e69b8106e5d0

https://preview.redd.it/mfglx02imv9h1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d2f12765ddd754578bb72341afcba5f842e79e4

https://preview.redd.it/krvof32imv9h1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=403793898bb8028eb30b06819739ed6931b80ab4

https://preview.redd.it/ei9p312imv9h1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ded3fdcd3eca7e508ca92bf1a2a43ff7652321f

https://preview.redd.it/wu7zu52imv9h1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a18e3341ee75ca2ec3eb36f2c2112e60df8590e1

https://preview.redd.it/jkt4412imv9h1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08cd17f465ebf98547ccb5c7d9c5c5fbb4e5dd61

reddit.com
u/Lovegasoline — 9 days ago

Braided Pigtails w/Ferrules for use in Small Boxes w/Old BX and Brittle Cloth + Rubber Insulation?

Discussing with a friend regarding 100+/- year old buildings wired in BX with cloth and rubber insulated conductors (which have become oxidized and brittle) and small capacity switch boxes. Working or maintaining devices in the tight spaces of these small boxes and repeatedly jostling the old wires with brittle insulation is problematic.

Using shrink wrap tubing over the old wires' insulation to help maintain its integrity is one approach to help preserve the longevity of the wiring and keep the brittle insulation intact.

Using WAGO* #221 connectors would seem to greatly reduce the forces exerted on the old wiring when servicing the device (i.e. generating pulling, pushing, packing, or for ex. twisting motions when using twist-on Wire Nut connectors) and with the added benefit of a slimmer sleeker profile, taking up less space in the box, and make packing/unpacking the box's wiring and device easier.

It seems that introducing STRANDED PIGTAILS TERMINATED WITH FERRULES into the box could also promote longevity and protect the old wiring by greatly reducing - or even eliminating -many of the forces telegraphed onto the old brittle conductors' insulation when packing, unpacking, and working within the tight confines of the box ... the more supple stranded wires can absorb, reduce, or even eliminate these forces altogether.

Question #1: Do manufactures sell stranded pigtails terminated with a ferrule(s) for this type of application?

Insofar as WAGO #221 connectors accept stranded wire, a stranded pigtail with a single ferrule termination would work. What's the best ferrule design for use with switches and receptacles?

*Question #2: WAGO Mounting Carriers (or other solution)?

WAGO sells mounting carriers for it's connectors to attach them to panels to create a 'chassis mount terminal block'. I'm wondering if one of the small WAGO mounting carriers would work inside a small capacity electric box (in conjunction with a 2 or 3 conductor WAGO #221 connector) ... for ex. screwed to the inside back, side, or bottom of the box to even further isolate the old brittle BX conductors from movement when handling pigtails. If these mounting carriers will not work is there another way to affix the WAGO connector to the box to isolate movement? Further, would a solution such as this be NEC compliant?

Thoughts?the

reddit.com
u/Lovegasoline — 10 days ago