I got this antique chest of drawers cheap. but the screw holes for the knobs are massive (2cm wide) while the knob screws are tiny. Most are secured currently with some scrap wood and wood glue wedging the knob into the holes. one has come loose. id love a more permanent solution.
I noticed this crack about 1/2" that has been slowly developing over the last few months, and recently put my shoulder into it to check how solid and it slightly moves.
Is this a DIY project or should I get a pro, what trade or specialist so I don't get fleeced if the later.
I'm pretty handy, but I know my limits
It appears my booty was unable to be contained...
Considering taking them to a clothing repair center but my husband says it's a lost cause 🥺
I pulled it to turn on the light earlier and it came on but also the chain came out. I pulled with no excessive force but here we are. Now, it's bedtime and i need to put my kid to bed. I can't open up the ceiling fan right now to see if I can fix it. We really need the fan on and the light off or neither of us will be able to sleep. Have to keep the door closed and it gets stuffy FAST.
We will have a plug in fan later tonight but we don't right now.
So my question is, how can I turn the light off at the fixture so the fan stays on? I don't want to get shocked if at all possible lol
Help! 🙏
I cannot for the life of me find the proper replacement or even the drain portion for this. This is my children's tub and we have to use a rubber stopper for bath time. I have attempted to find a plug or even drain replacement for it but nothing works. Ive tried some of the "universal" stoppers thay you just push in and its supposed to work but the drain is too shallow for any of those. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I do NOT have access to the piping to change the entire setup. This tub is on the second floor directly over the stairs.
I was dragging the cord to an extension plugging in my charger, the charger got caught on something, and instead of unplugging, bent to conform with the motion. It charges, just not as well as it used to, and is very wobbly.
Recently have been shopping around for an enclosed trailer. Found a structurally solid Aluma 6ftx12ft enclosed trailer for sale at a local Copart lot (current bid of $275). That said, it needs to have the tongue (3rd picture) welded back onto the A frame. I have zero experience with trailers modifications/repairs. Anyone have any idea how much this would cost to have fixed? Have read that Aluma aluminum frame parts (~$400) can be welded on by any reputable welding shop. Anything I’m missing here? Any help is appreciated! If the total cost exceeds $1300 I’ll probably go another route.
This is how it’s always been. It works of course but it heats up the side and handles of the pots/ pans and also leaves black marks.
It just doesn't grip enough to hold the table at a specific angle. Any slight pressure and it slips. I tried rubber washers to improve grip/friction, but it slips even more! Way to make this work or whole other system to replace it?
at my wits ends with this damn fill tube freezing. lg lsxs26326s. apparently it is a common thing with these refrigerators and the water valve is usually the culprit. Not mine, changed it and the water still stays at the very tip of the fill valve and freezes. temperature is above zero degrees. i have to manually clear it out with a little pick in order for water to fill the ice tray and within two hours it’s frozen again. Lg makes the fill tube heater element un serviceable, and the suggestion is to BUY A WHOLE NEW DOOR. Absolutely ridiculous. Is there Anyone out there experiencing this. I am about to buy an external heater and wrap the ice water line that enters the top left door hinge, run the power cable across the top of the fridge and plug it in behind the fridge. i want to rip my hair out with this damn thing.
My doorbell stopped working. I took the button (probably 50+ years old) off the doorframe and found wires running into the back, where they made contact with the button in some way I can’t decipher. The mechanism is covered by a round metal plate, and I see no way to get inside. I can depress the plate, but I can’t remove it or get behind it.
It seems like it should be as easy as touching the two wires (circled yellow photo 1) to something on the circuit board and hot gluing in place like the purple circled line is (I circled the connection that I unhooked to get the panel off but that line is fine, just need to fix yellow). Idk where the wires need to touch.
TIA!
It's attached directly to the supply line. It is not screwed into the faucet housing. I can pull it down a little bit. I tried putting a baggy with vinegar in it to loosen it, and the vinegar went down the housing into the cabinet. A photo from the bottom is in the comments. I'm trying to remove the aerator to clean it and have no idea what to do. Thanks.
Hi everyone, hoping to get advice on rust damage in my bathtub. I was usina a bathmat with suction cups. and it looks like it trapped water and pulled off the finish. Now I have a cluster of rusty, dotted pits down to the metal.
This is our main tub and is actively used for daily showers.
Is it absolutely necessary to do a full tub reglazing, or is there a reliable spot-repair/touch-up method for this type of damage?
How urgent is this? Do I have a few weeks to figure this out. or do I need to fix it this weekend before the rust spreads under the enamel?
Thanks in advance for any guidances