Your blades don't rust from skating. They rust from what you do in the ten minutes after.

A friend at my rink just tossed a set of steel this month over rust that never had to happen, so I figured I'd share the little routine that has kept mine clean for years.

Here's the part people miss. The water that eats your edges isn't really the ice. It's the condensation that shows up when cold steel meets warm room air. You skate, you step off, and the blades start sweating. Leave that moisture sitting on the steel and you'll find rust freckles by the next day.

So the first thing I do, before I even sit down, is wipe the whole blade dry with a towel. The sole plate, the hollow, both edges, right down to the tips. Takes about ten seconds and honestly it's the one habit that matters most.

Then I put on soft soakers, not the hard plastic guards. The cloth ones pull moisture off the steel. The hard guards do the opposite. They trap water right against the edge, which is the last place you want it. I only use hard guards for walking to and from the ice. They never go on for storage, and the skates never sit in the bag wearing them.

I also crack the laces open and let everything air out before it goes away. A zipped up bag is basically a little humidity chamber, and that's how skates rust in the closet.

If you already see a faint orange haze, don't sand it and don't stress. A fine honing stone with light pressure lifts early surface rust without hurting the edge. Deal with it that week and it's nothing. Ignore it for a month and it pits the steel for good.

And if you travel, wipe them bone dry, soakers on, guards packed somewhere separate. A long trip in a cold cargo hold is about the friendliest environment rust could ask for.

Curious what everyone else does the second they step off. Anyone got a drying trick I should be stealing?

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u/Maximum_Tangelo5523 — 7 days ago

The heel lock is the cheapest way to stop your short track heel lifting on every push

Spent ages fussing over blades and rocker before I realised the thing costing me the most was how I laced my boots. The trick that changed it was treating the lace as three zones instead of one long pull. Keep the forefoot loose so your toes can spread and stay warm, pull the instep firm since that is what actually pins your foot down and stops the heel floating, and keep the ankle supportive but loose enough to still flex your shin forward into a deep knee bend. Then build a heel lock at the top two rows, you run each lace straight up its own side to leave a small loop, cross each end through the opposite loop and pull down and out, and it hauls the heel back into the pocket so the push goes to the blade instead of into a gap. Quick test: lace up, sink into position, and your heel should stay planted while your toes can still wiggle, and if your toes go numb in a few minutes you laced the forefoot too tight.

Full write-up here: https://www.livelica.com/blogs/short-track/short-track-boot-lacing-how-to-lace-for-a-locked-heel-and-full-control

(wrote this one up on our LiveLica blog)

u/Maximum_Tangelo5523 — 10 days ago
▲ 6 r/Speedskating+2 crossposts

Why two wheels with the same size and hardness can still feel totally different on the road

Went down a rabbit hole on wheel profile this week and it cleared up something that used to confuse me. Profile is just the shape of the riding surface when you look at the wheel end on, and it sets how big your contact patch is, which is the tiny bit of rubber actually touching the floor at any moment. A sharper bullet profile gives a smaller patch that rolls freer on clean fast asphalt, while a rounder profile spreads the rubber wider and grips better on slick or dusty tracks. Body weight plays in too, since a heavier skater loads the wheel enough to run a sharper profile and still find grip, while a lighter skater usually wants the extra bite of a rounder shape. One more thing that helped me: wheels cone as you lean and push on one edge, and once they cone the two edges grip differently and the skate starts feeling twitchy, so rotating on a schedule keeps the profile even and lets you use all the urethane.

Full write-up here: https://www.livelica.com/blogs/inline-speed-skating/inline-speed-wheel-profile-and-contact-patch-how-wheel-shape-changes-grip-and-roll

(wrote this one up on our LiveLica blog)

u/Maximum_Tangelo5523 — 4 days ago

Ceramic vs steel bearings for inline speed — what actually matters, and the free speed most skaters skip

Spent some time writing up the ceramic vs steel bearing question for inline speed and the honest answer is calmer than the arguments online. The only real difference between the two is the balls: ceramic is lighter and runs cooler, so it spins up quicker and holds speed deeper into long efforts — but the gains stay small until your technique is clean enough to feel them. ABEC is a manufacturing-tolerance rating, not a speed number, so don't buy on that alone. Two things matter more than which material you run: don't over-tighten your axles (that pinches the races and adds drag no oil will fix), and keep them clean and oiled, because a well-kept steel bearing rolls faster than a neglected ceramic one every time. Also check your axle size before buying — most inline wheels take a 608 but some quad and specialist setups run a 627, and they're not interchangeable.

Full write-up here: https://www.livelica.com/blogs/inline-speed-skating/ceramic-vs-steel-bearings-which-is-better-for-inline-speed-skaters

(wrote this up on our LiveLica blog)

u/Maximum_Tangelo5523 — 14 days ago
▲ 6 r/Speedskating+1 crossposts

Deburring and polishing after sharpening — the two steps that actually keep short track blades fast

Something I only really understood after a few seasons: sharpening your short track blades is only step one. After you grind the edge you've got a fine burr hanging off it, plus a glide face full of tiny scratches — both of those drag. Knocking the burr off with a light pass and then polishing the glide face toward a mirror is what actually makes the blade feel fast and hold a clean edge through a corner. Takes a few extra minutes but the difference in glide is real.

I wrote up the full process (how to feel for the burr, what to polish with, and how far to take it) here: https://www.livelica.com/blogs/short-track/how-to-deburr-and-polish-short-track-blades-for-a-fast-edge

(disclosure: it's on our LiveLica blog). Curious how everyone else finishes their edges — how far do you take the polish?

u/Maximum_Tangelo5523 — 4 days ago