u/Modern_chemistry

Yes… another post about Scarpa Instinct VS

So I have been climbing for about 6 months now and at my gym I’m climbing v6 and projecting v7.

My la sportiva tarantulas size 11.5 (street shoes are usually 12/12.5) started to fall apart and the glue started coming undone as I left them in my car during the heatwave here (I’ve also had them for years as I started bouldering over a decade ago - but never really got “into it” like I am now) - but tbh - I wanted a more aggressive shoe for edging anyways.

I stopped at At REI today before the gym just to take a peak and saw these at 30% off - same size as my tarantulas 11.5.

I tried them on and they were easy to get on, my foot was nice and snug, not too tight on the sides, no overlapping toes, but definitely a bit painful top of the big toe. Considering REI’s return policy and having read some reviews about the necessary break in time specifically on these shoes - I figured I’d give them a shot.

Went to the gym right after and MY GOD - climbing v4/v5 I was definitely wincing a bit with pain on top of big toe knuckle. Honestly had a pretty bad session and struggled to send previous v6’s due to hesitancy to put all the weight on my toe due to the pain. The thing is tho - I can TELL how much more power and performance I was getting from them even on the v4/v5 - so I’m still quite intrigued.

My question - did I make a mistake? Or is it really true these will fit perfectly after a couple of weeks?

So - a little background … I like to think I know at least *something* about coffee. I’ve been a barista for about 4 years and can dial in espresso and I do my own pour overs / aeropress at home and take notes on various recipes, grinds, ratios, methods etc etc … but I’m stumped ….

The cafe I work at just got a new grinder Mahlkonig GH2. We brew on a somewhat older fetco… and I’m a bit lost. Made three batches with new grinder … and I don’t wanna waist any more beans so I’m here for some help.

Current set up:

Water: 2.25 L

Ice: 1400g (1.4L)

(Total 3.65L )

Grind: 6

Pulse 6

Pre-wet 12%.

Results: It was bitter, strong, and really boring, yet some how a bit weak also (????) but generally not good at all.

Edit:

Trying a new recipe now:
Coffee: 190
Water 1.2L
Ice:1.8kg
Pulse: 4
Prewet: 8%
Brew time: 3 minutes

(This is definitely getting us much closer - but still something is a bit off

At first a bit toasty - strong, yet balanced and slightly nuanced
Over time (as ice melted) much more balanced and smooth - significantly more nuanced. Only issue is - don’t wanna have to wait for ice to melt)

(Thinking now of increasing water amount from 1.2L to 1.5L)

We then tried to course the grind to a 7 and it was similar results but just weaker - did not increase brightness or acidity.

Then we went back to the grind 6 and lowered the amount of water to 1.75L … and that was the worst by far. (I realize now - this actually increased the bitterness by concentrating the extracted coffee into less water … which I should have known … but anyways)

So… im wondering a couple of things…

MY QUESTIONS:

1. what is the “proper” way to dial in a coffee for large batches? Is it possible to use small pour over batches using same ratio and grind size? And start there - find a good grind size, and then brew a gallon and refine the grind and or the ice / water ratio???

2. specifically for flash brewed coffee - what are the specs for a good recipe. I’ve seen 1:10-1:12 no ice. I’ve read 1:15. I’ve seen course grind, medium/medium-fine grind. 60% ice, 40% ice. What exactly should I be aiming for …

3. how much does pulse / pre wet affect extraction. If I’m not mistaken, I understand pulse is for agitation, and pre wet is to ensure all grinds get wet allowing for even extraction (so the water doesn’t just find path of least resistance and channel its way through). I guess what I’m asking is similar to “how to dial in” - but specifically when does messing with pulse / pre wet come into factor? I can dial in a new bean at home for my pour over or aeropress, and do 3-4 pulses and 30 second bloom time … but yeah… big batches have me stumped.

Thanks a lot in advanced for any help!!! Much appreciated.