u/Myles2Travel

corrected video - We prepped the metal studs by sanding down any surface imperfections, surface rust and manufacturing residue. Then with Rust-Oleum primer and rust preventer.

What did you use for connecting wires?

This is what they have at my local Lowe’s. I’m leaning towards the push in wire connector (not because of price).

Looking for thoughts and recommendations or is there something better?

I’ve had my trailer for about a week and have been trying to get the fans to cut on with no luck.

I made a test device to connect to the seven‑pin connector and checked all the pins. I was able to get the running lights, brake lights, and turn signals to work — but the internal lights and fans wouldn’t power up.

So I connected my test adapter directly to the fan and light, and they worked perfectly.

Looking closer, I noticed the manufacturer tied all the positive wires together, but the ground return wires for the fan and light were screwed directly into the trailer frame.

Is that correct wiring? Because the only way I could get the fans and lights to work was to unscrew those ground wires from the frame and connect them directly to the ground on my adapter.

The first picture shows how the manufacturer wired them (ground to frame).
The second picture shows my corrected wiring.
The third picture shows the male cigarette‑lighter adapter I built.

These pics show the moment we began removing the plywood walls, panel by panel, screw by screw. And the last photo? That’s the trailer completely stripped down — nothing left but the metal frame and our vision. 8.5x28 V-Nose.

Our trailer has arrived. It’s getting serious now. More Questions and Advice will be coming soon!

Hey everyone! Quick question for anyone who has a Walk-On Roof Upgrade on their cargo trailer.

Can you drop a photo of what your interior ceiling looks like in the comments?

The Details: My custom trailer is fully completed and currently sitting on the dealer's lot. The sales rep just sent me some pictures of the inside. My build sheet specifies a walk-on roof with 12" On-Center roof bows and 3/8" plywood decking.

Normally, I would expect to look up at the ceiling and see the plywood resting directly on top of the metal bows. Instead, I can see the metal cross-bows and then just a dark gray/black material resting right on top of them—no visible wood grain at all.

When I questioned it, they explained that the plywood is layered "in between" it.

I’ve just never seen a walk-on roof constructed where the plywood is sandwiched between two pieces of membrane that way before.

If you have a factory walk-on roof, what does your ceiling look like from the inside? Do you see raw plywood when you look up, or are you looking at a membrane skin?

Note: I specifically requested for the trim pieces not to be installed.

Any photos or insight from you guys would be a massive help before I make my next move with the dealer. Thanks in advance!

I’m currently planning the electrical setup for my trailer conversion looking for honest and constructive feedback. I am definitely not an electrician!
 
I already own two Bluetti power stations. I have two specifically for redundancy. Because I already have them, they must be the foundation of this build.
 
I plan to split the workload, Bluetti #1 will run all AC loads, and Bluetti #2 will run all 12V DC loads.
 
AC Loads Mini-split AC, washer/dryer combo, and small kitchen appliances. The washer/dryer will realistically only be used when I am plugged into shore power.
 
DC Loads everything else. Lights, water pump, fans, and a 12V RV refrigerator.
 
Starting off with 600W of roof solar for each Bluetti. I have two portable 350W panels that came with the systems.
 
Shore Power: Both units can charge via shore power when available.
 
I've attached a diagram of my planned routing. The items in the diagram except for the Bluetti’s are just used to show.
 
Any glaring safety issues or bottlenecks?
 
I appreciate any advice, critiques, or resources. Thank you!