r/cargocamper

I’ve been trying to upload this video, but I think it’s too long and cannot make it work. I’m unsure if you can share YouTube video links. I know Reddit has several rules, but I looked and could not find it.

I’m looking for thoughts and/or suggestions on how to make this work.

https://youtu.be/JazAya6KdF0

Found a used factory built 7 by 14 Legend Baja offroad trailer locally, but i am a little concerned about a 14' instead of the 16' I wanted. Really didn't know this style existed from manufacturers. Any suggestions for trailer companies that offer these in Michigan or the Midwest? Edited for wrong trailer company name.

In my brain it seems like a 90 degree one is putting less downward pressure on the plug so that in 5 years it’s not becoming loose and needing replacing. Is this just me or is there some legitimacy to this way of thinking?

I'm considering ordering a trailer with some of what I want already installed, but I'm also still considering buying something already on the dealer's lot and doing most of it myself. I'm probably buying sometime late fall or early winter to give myself time to get it completed enough to camp in by next summer at the latest, and hopefully by early spring. There are some things that are obvious, but there are several options for which I want to hear your thoughts (especially if you've already done this).

Windows:

This may be the most intimidating part of the build, once you've cut a hole in your trailer, there is no going back. If you cut too small, you can fix the error, but the other direction is hard to/impossible to fix. For wider windows where you are cutting into the supports, you also need to do something to shore it up.

I don't have most of the tools I'd need (I have a drill and impact driver). While, a few hand saws of different types may be ideal, I've seen people do it online with just one cutting tool and make it work: sawsall, jigsaws, hand held circular saws, oscillating tools, even one guy using tin snips to cut the aluminum skin (I do have tin snips, but I am not attempting that). Each seems to run about $100 minimum and a decent tool is about 50% more to double that.

The price difference between buying a decent window on Amazon and having the factory do it seems to be about $100-150 per window (depending upon the size of the window). Originally, I was thinking two 30x30 emergency exit windows, but if I use the back door as the emergency exit, I can probably get by with smaller windows. The smaller windows are cheaper (with a lower price difference between doing it myself and having the factory do it), but on the other hand, a smaller window installed between support beams so as not to have to cut the supports would be something I'd be more willing to take on myself.

So, did you do this yourself, or have the factory do it? Do you regret your choice and wish you did it the other way?

Electric:

I am not an electrician, and this is neck and neck as far as intimidation value with the windows. It definitely seems very time consuming to do a full electrical job as well. However, one of the common RV issues is poorly installed electric, and I doubt these cargo trailer companies do a much better job. Should I pay them to do electric for convenience, or go with an alternative?

My alternative, would be something that seems common with the van build community... a 20v electric port. I'd probably cut two in order to use two heavy duty outdoor extension cords (probably using a 30a to 20a adapter so I can run two extension cords from a campground pedestal), using one for my AC or heater, and the other connected to a surge protector/power strip for everything else. Battery would be two power stations I already have (one Jackery and one EcoFlow). Eventually, I may put in a full 30amp system after taking a class or two at the local community college but the electric port would get me started and may be all I need. Anyway, cutting one 2 1/2-3" hole in the side with a hole saw attachment and then screwing it into the walls takes pretty much all the intimidation value out.

Insulation:

It does seem that to have it done at the factory is not significantly more money than doing it myself. It may cost $100-200 more for the entire trailer. While shopping these in person, it seems the plywood in the walls uses a TON of screws. While not a difficult job, it looks like a very time consuming job. The time savings may be worth the cost.

However, watching videos online, it seems very common for people to find problems behind the walls that they can fix with the plywood walls removed. Needing to seal seams and corners seems very common, and easy to do with the walls removed. If I have the factory insulate it, I'll never see these issues to fix them.

Structural:

Obviously any major structural changes (extended tongue, 16" or 12" on center beams, thicker skin, etc) have to be done by the factory. I want the .080 Polycore for a better looking trailer. Beyond that, what is really needed? I'll likely do a flat front, so an extended tongue won't really be needed. If I get a v-nose, I'd prefer it, but is it really necessary? I want a one piece roof for less likelihood of leaking, but if I get one off the lot without it, I guess I'd just have to seal the roof every year or two like with an RV. Closer beam spacing than standard will give added strength to the walls/floors/roof, but will it really be needed for a cargo camper?

I basically want a cargo trailer with a quiet AC unit on top. Quiet being key here. I prefer it come from the factory that way. And I'd like a bunch of 120 volt outlets inside it. It's all I really care about. I just want an office space for remote work and an easy way to tow around kayaks and bikes, etc. I'll live in a tent for sleeping.

Probably looking into a 6x12 cargo hauler.

If not from the factory, I'd guess this is something I can pay any trailer sales company in my area to install? In this case, I'd guess the trailer can come insulated from the factory atleast.

I don't mind finishing the interior.

Trying again as this was just removed by Reddit filters for some reason?

Building a very basic trailer, mainly for hauling supplies and to provide a climate controlled space to sleep.

The only reason I am even considering a half bath is to try to keep my wife interested in joining me and our sons on camping trips in the future. For long weekends, will mainly use campground showers or will be putting together a portable shower unit to use outside the trailer.

Trying to figure out if I plan on building out a toilet/sink area for her to use in the middle of the night or while we hang around the camp site, or if I get a camp toilet to put in a section I would wall off for her privacy. It would only be used by her as the boys and I would use trees or the campsite facilities.

Anyone have success or horror stories to use with a camp toilet such as the Thetford porta Potti (the one suggestion I saw before the other post was removed), Joolca portable toilet, or something similar?

Does anybody just use a portable grey tank instead of having one physically mounted in/under their trailer? Looking for pros and cons to this set up as an option. I'm thinking of going this route to avoid mounting a tank under my trailer as the capacity seems limited to what will fit between the floor frames. I'd also like to save some room on the inside of the trailer to prioritize my fresh water tank supply which will be inside instead.

I am exploring the idea of living in a converted cargo camper full time. But I’m wondering what the costs will be to cool and heat the space.

For example a 8.5x20 trailer that has 1 inch foam board insulation in the walls and ceiling with a 12000 btu mini split with heat pump. No insulation in floor.

How difficult/costly will it be to cool (in humid Georgia summer) and keep it warm during the winter? (I would be comfortable at 71-72 degrees in summer. It will not be in the shade unfortunately

And if the insulation is 2 inches will it make a huge difference vs 1 inch?

I’m new to this so any help would be much appreciated.

I can't figure this out, please help! I've tried a bunch of power calculators and no result.

So: I have a very large DC-to-AC inverter. I have a 120V AC fan, 1.4 amps, 142 watts. I need to run it for a total of 6 hours, in 30 minute increments, over two days. How many Ah of 12V battery would I need to run that without any recharging?

Also: my van does have solar panels on top (the type that conform to the roof surface). It came with them. I do not know how much power (watts) that they provide at peak operation. At the moment, they provide charge to the van battery (don't want that running flat!) and to operate a Dometic refrigerator (the 1 cu.ft. drawer type). Without knowing how much energy the solar panels provide, how could I also use that power to recharge the 12V battery/batteries I want to use to power the fan? Is there such a thing as a 12V battery charger that could plug into the van to provide charging to the additional battery/batteries without draining the car battery? I'm pretty sure (!) my solar system does have a voltage cut-off to prevent that. Or would I need an additional solar panel (and controller) and how many watts?

OR would it be less expensive for my needs just to have sufficiently sized deep cycle battery/batteries and just use a regular 120V automotive battery charger after each trip?

I hope that all makes sense!

Building a trailer conversion. I have power inlet (SS2-50P) that supplies power to breaker box. My question is, how should I ground the entire system? Should I just add a ground to the panel from chassis of trailer or do I need to ground each outlet box as well? I used metal outlet boxes because of spacing for outlet wiring