I'm going nuts trying to find a wheel stud for my trailer, 2009 Interstate Loadrunner 6x10. It has a 3,500lb axle (I don't know the manufacturer), standard 5x4-1/2" hub. I only need ONE wheel stud. Here are the measurements:

1/2"-20

2" overall length

0.77" diameter head

0.555" diameter knurl (or "serrated')

1.1" thread length

My local Trailers Plus does not have it in stock, and it is out of stock on the main Trailers Plus website. I have been searching for over two hours. I have looked at hundreds of different wheel studs (search parameters seem to not find only the specific search parameters). I cannot seem to find an exact match. This is driving me insane.

Please help!

Thanks!

ANY HELP OR INFORMATION IS APPRECIATED!

Bought the trailer at the end of June. PO claimed that the 12V DC-to-120V AC setup (I believe to use power tools at jobsites) was "complete" minus a couple of connection wires for the batteries.

Nope. Both batteries? Old and DOA.

So here's what's in the trailer:

3000W Modified Sine Wave Inverter-Charger (took me awhile to figure out that the plugged cord was for the charging function). Google Lens and Google searches did not turn up this particular device.

And then this stuff (see photos below, also pardon any incorrect usage of electrical terminology):

This junction box. Best I can tell--the inverter provides 120V AC power via the thick cable (yellow in the front of the inverter) attaching on the left side (lower cable) of the junction box. Then the thick cable on the right side of the box provides power to the 4-outlet box on the trailer floor. And the white cord provides AC shore power (when connected to it) to inverter-charger to recharge the 12V battery/batteries.

That then leaves the two other cables--the one coming out of the top left of the junction box that ends in a 3-prong plug, and the one coming out of the left side (upper cable) that doesn't have a plug on the end.

One of those, presumably, is for connection to shore power? If so, which one?

Also, at the bottom of the junction box is a "connector strip" and there are two wires (marked "+" and "-") that come out of the inverter-charger at the back. It has two sets of positive and negative connectors and those two wires are supposed to be connected to the lower set of connectors. Why?

And, is this thing even wired correctly and safe to use? Or is it just trash?

The inverter-charger, not connected to any batteries, only one of the \"thin wires\" connected to the bottom terminals

Back of the inverter

(OOPS! Main Photo of everything didn't post and I can't add it as an edit--see Second Post, please!)

Junction box setup

Detail

What is the "Zing Bar" in the upper left?

What is the "E-T-N D3PF2AA-A2 COIL 120VAC" in the lower right?

Thank you!

Hi! My trailer came with a strange, not fully complete, 12V battery to inverter to outlet setup and I cannot understand what is going on. For the moment, ignore the two batteries. I don't know if they are even usable. I also don't know if the inverter actually functions but they said it did. Also, please forgive me if I misuse any electrical terminology.

There is a 3000W/6000W DC-to-AC inverter. I cannot find any information on this model on the internet, nothing comes up under "XR Electronics". On the back of the inverter, there are two sets of positive and negative terminals.

Q: is that in order to use two sets of cables from the batteries to reduce resistance and heat?

As they explained, there were two smaller gauge wires that went from the bottom pair of terminals into the bottom of the junction box on the trailer wall. (the black wires)

Q: why?

On the front of the inverter, there are four AC outlets with an on-off power switch. But below that, there is a second power switch and an AC cord (with plug end) coming out of the inverter. I do not understand what that is for. They have it plugged into the AC four-outlet box.

And, then, from that outlet box, there is a thick cable that goes into the junction box.

And out of the top of the junction box, is a thick cable coming out that ends in a female AC plug.

And out of the left side of the junction box, the upper cable seems to be missing a female AC plug.

But the lower cable coming out of the junction box is plugged into the inverter.

Can anybody explain to me what is going on here? Does it actually make sense? Or is it just crap?

Thanks to anybody who can answer these questions!

Back of the inverter

Front of the inverter

The whole setup

The inverter--it's quite big and heavy, maybe 20-25 lbs.

(Not sure why the trailer looks like the roof slopes down and it's shorter in the front.)

1. Trailer (2009 Interstate Loadrunner, 6x10, barn doors): $2,240
2. Paint and supplies: $105
3. Flooring: $70
4. Replacement fender and side marker lights: $29
5. 2 front wheel chocks, 3x5' E-Track, rings, fasteners, etc.: $315
6. Miscellaneous: $172
7. Total: $2,931
8. Title and registration (2 years): $339
9. Insurance (1 year): $99
10. Money saved versus renting a U-Haul motorcycle trailer to date: -$3,280
11. Break-even point: approximately 9 years.

Plus about 20 hours of labor: FREE (but ceiling painting is rough on the shoulders and arms!)

Next up: remove the old business logos on the side, repaint the fender, repair the tongue jack, new tires (they're pretty old), and maybe add electric brakes.

I do not work for Continental, they don't sponsor me, and I am not giving out an affiliate link for you to buy them so that I get a commission. Okay:

These tires are fantastic! After reading a great review of them on Motorcycle.com, I did some research, and they even cost me a bit less ($374 for the pair) than any of the other equivalent tires out there. They are specifically designed for lighter-weight bikes, like my ZX-4RR, Ninja 300/400/500, RC390, R3, and supermotos. A small bike definitely does not need the much harder construction of a tire made for 150+ horsepower bike weighing many pounds more.

I went with 120/70-17 front and 160/60-17 rear, based on the tire testing the Chuck Graves (Gravesport.com) has done with the ZX-4RR.

And they work great! True to their review, they take zero warm-up and there's no need to use tire warmers. Get your pressures set right in the morning, check them throughout the day, all's good. After about 430 track miles, they still look like I've just finished one good session. I'm hoping I can get at least another 5 days out of them this year.

Bottom line: Michelin, Pirelli and Dunlop aren't the only tire manufacturers making high-quality stuff for track use.

My trailer (6x10) is nearly impossible for me to move by hand (lifting the hitch and moving it), like risking herniating every disc in my back. Is anybody using one of these? I have a fixed trailer jack that doesn't swivel for travel. With the jack at maximum retraction, there was 9-1/4" below the jack foot, and 11-1/2" to the bottom of the 2" tube on the jack. This particular wheel is 8-3/5" from top to bottom. Obviously, you wouldn't be able to travel with the wheel attached, so do you just attach and detach it as needed?

Also: I like the wheel chock it comes with. Question, though: if you put down the chock, then attach the wheel to the jack and lower it down and unhitch from your tow vehicle, what do you do if you have to move the trailer a few feet or so? Do you have to rehitch the trailer?? Or maybe the wheel chock is generally not necessary?

Last question (really! TIA for still reading this far!): my trailer weighs about 1,300 lbs. GVWR is about 2,950 lbs. If max loaded, what strength wheel do I need? 1200? 1500? 2000? More?

EDIT: or rather than one of these jack wheel chocks, do you just chock the trailers wheels?

Really a phenomenal opportunity for Kayla. She's been on the racing radar since she was about 12 or 13 years old. She's made a huge jump in her performance this year. She was part of World Ducati Week at Misano this past week. She did some parade laps on a street V4 S. But afterwards? Hot laps on Nicolo Bulega's WSBK V4 R, and then?

4 or 5 hotlaps on Marc Marquez's GP26.

Friggin' awesome! A dream that many of us hold, and one that Kayla has fulfilled. Ducati said it was not a test or assessment of Kayla.

I say la porcheria!

I am certain that Ducati looked at everything she did: her laptimes and how she progressed from the Superbike to the GP bike, and all of the data from each bike. Was she smooth? Was she online? Was she confident? Lean angles? Sliding/no sliding? Was she faster each lap?

Read her interview here:

https://www.roadracingworld.com/news/kayla-yaakovs-big-adventure-riding-a-motogp-ducati-at-misano/

While my personal favorite magazine was Motorcyclist (and I worked for several of the owners of that publication "empire" during my time at Motorcycle Cruiser), I was also a fan and subscriber of Cycle World for years and was on their website just days ago (the print magazine was long-since discontinued).

For you newer riders (within the last 15 years), once upon a time there were dozens of quality motorcycle magazines, published every month. And they were reliable sources of information, unlike most of the current websites and YouTube channels. Of course, there was no internet so you either read the magazines or went to motorcycle dealerships to get manufacturers' brochures of the new motorcycles (of which there were WAY more in the USA into the 1980s) or got semi-correct information from your riding friends.

Sure, with the internet, it seems ridiculous to miss something that had a two to three month lead time between approval of the final edit and then actually arriving on the newsstand (young riders: Google "newsstand") and in your mailbox. But at the top magazines, the quality of the journalism and the writing was excellent. The photography was truly excellent.

Over a thirty year period, I spent countless hours pouring over these magazines from cover to cover and saved every one of them (eventually realizing that I'd likely never need any of the information they contained and discarding them (no takers for buying them) before a major personal relocation (30 years of 4 magazines, mostly Motorcyclist, Sport Rider, Cycle World, American Roadracing, Roadracing World & Motorcycle technology, takes a lot of space and ways a ton).

RIP Cycle World, Cycle, Sport Rider and many others. A few of these still have vestiges of online presence including Motorcyclist and Motorcycle Cruiser (which may be confusing for some online searchers with the masthead only titled "Cruiser"). Motorcycle.com is still good, as is WebBikeWorld and RW&MT (which still has a print version!). Maybe also MCN from the UK. I have to imagine it's the same with all of the European motorcycle magazines that many have folded and a few still survive online.

Sigh.