r/MonitorAdvice

I have 2x Aoc 27G2G8 monitors, To the main monitor I have my pc and my ps5 connected via Hdmi, to the 2nd monitor I only have the pc connected via Display Cable.

I used to have the Msi G27C4 E3 as my 2nd monitor, but i broke it thats why I bought a new one. When the Msi monitor was my 2nd monitor everything was fine.

Now when I turn off my Main monitor or I switch to PS5 instead of PC, it keeps the open windows on the main monitor instead of switching them to the 2nd one.

Also when i turn off my 2nd monitor i can still put a window there, even though the monitor is off.

https://preview.redd.it/0boop2gmlc2h1.jpg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3bf93d67d579f10e19eb3c244e11e1687ddefe04

Hey everyone,

I'm running a MacBook Pro M5 Pro alongside an LG UltraFine 5K external display, and the color difference between the two screens is really noticeable — the MacBook's whites look warmer/more yellow compared to the LG.

Current setup:

- MacBook internal display: Apple XDR Display P3 profile, 3600 nits
- LG UltraFine 5K: using the default "LG UltraFine" color profile

I've tried switching both to Display P3 or sRGB, which helps a little, but the gap is still there. I've also played with macOS's built-in calibration assistant, but the result isn't convincing.

My questions:

1. What's the best approach to get both screens looking as close as possible without a hardware colorimeter?
2. If a colorimeter is the way to go, which one do you recommend for this use case (Calibrite, X-Rite, Spyder)?
3. Any specific ICC profiles or settings that worked well for you with the LG UltraFine 5K on a Apple Silicon Mac?

I'm a semi-professional photographer and graphic designer, so color accuracy is important to me.

Thank you !!

I have an Acer Predator X27U W1bmiipprx OLED monitor and I’m trying to mount it on a monitor arm.
The issue is that the original stand attaches using Acer’s circular quick-release mechanism, and I think I’m missing the OEM VESA adapter plate/bracket that came in the box(i never got one). Right now I only have the monitor and stock stand.

I tried using a normal 100x100 VESA plate from my monitor arm but it doesn’t fit because the mounting area is recessed and proprietary.

Does anyone with this exact monitor know:
what the missing adapter piece is called?

Would really appreciate if someone with this monitor could share pictures or links to the correct adapter. Thanks!

looking to upgrade to a 27 inch 1440p monitor but i'm having a hard time finding something that nails both sides of my setup. basically i do video editing so i need the colors to be accurate and look great, but i also play a lot of first person shooters. i need something with zero ghosting or dark smearing during fast movement. refresh rate around 144-180hz is totally fine, don't need anything higher than that. skip the oled recs for now.also don't care about the stand quality, speakers, or any of that extra stuff since i'm just going to vesa mount it anyway. just want a really good looking, responsive panel.

Hello, I'm looking for the best budget gaming monitor. I currently have two MSI G271 which one's coloring is starting to fail. So I'm looking for a replacement. I didn't have any complaints up until this.

I went to Micro Center for a new GPU and they had a LG UltraGear 27GS60QC-B. I saw the specs for the price and decided to purchase it. I read up a little more on it, one source said it was great for a VA and comparable to a low-end OLED. However, I also read that this Acer Nitro XV272U is far superior for only 10 bucks more (as of right now). Should I go back and return it?

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

I'm aiming for <$200, 1440p, and 144hz+

Bought the monitor a week ago and its great for the price, but it has some serious issues. Can they be fixed in any way?

1. HDR and Local Dimming (High preset) can barely work together, they make the image flicker horribly when a bright object appears in a dark scenario. I.E. I was watching an HDR video from NASA and when the Moon appeared it was so bright and beautiful that the whole screen started to "flicker" the brightness up and down repeatedly , its like the algorithm is trying to guess what brightness it should be displaying, but multiple times in a few seconds. So its very distracting and it takes too much from the experience.

2. Local Dimming "Low" and "Medium" settings "fix" the flickering issue, but make the overall brightess too fkn low whenever a slightly dark scene appears on the screen. I suppose its programed to avoid "blooming", but it just kills the immersion because the overall brightness is even lower than my Keyboards RGB ffs. I would preffer a Bloomy image than a extremely dim one. (Blooming is BARELY noticeable in High preset imo, so no need to try mitigate it. And I even have natural blooming with any type of screen because I suffer from astigmatism lol)

3. "Bluriness" even when its a higher-res monitor. Local Dimming kills all the text clarity that 1440p gives when theres white text in a dark UI. And HDR gives a purple hue to the contour of the tiny letters. So makes UIs like Reddit, Chat GPT and YouTube in dark mode practically an eyesore. Had to turn up the Windows scale to 150% to make them usable.

4. Ghosting even when it has a "Fast IPS" panel. Whenever I use HDR it fixes the Override mode into "Standard" and it makes the ghosting of moving objects pop even more (because with the most usable override mode "Faster" it still has little ghosting, and the setting "Fastest" is too agresive and introduces overshoot, so not usable for me). Its very annoying that I bought a high contrast gaming monitor, but I cant even play without seeing blurry dark shadows whenever a moving object appears in-game or in stress test like "UFO Test". Feels like a Fast VA panel more than a Fast IPS tbh.

This are my only complaints. Appart from those, the monitor has been working flawlessly (as it should for the more premium oriented price. I paid 450-ish dollars in Xiaomi México Store). I come from regular Fast/IPS and VA panels, so I expected much more from this Xiaomi. But honestly it feels like its just a gimmick that needs some work to function correctly.

At least I can use the monitor the whole day and it wont burn like silly OLEDs, tho.

Thanks in advance for your response and your time for reading.

I was playing in my pc when the monitor suddenly shuts down and said “no signal” before turning completely black. I had this occurrence before and did what I did last time. I took the cmos out for 30~ seconds and cleaned it then placed it back in, although unlike before, it did not work. I also removed the ram sticks and placed it back inside and it did not work as well. I tried ctrl windows shift b at the same time and it did NOT work.

Ps: my keyboard and mouse lights up

Hello, I have a new PC coming in soon and I would like to upgrade my monitors.

I am currently running a dual monitor setup with a AOC G2490W1G4 as my main monitor and a HP VH240a as a vertical monitor. I am looking to replace the HP monitor and change the AOC to a vertical monitor.

The specs on the new computer is listed:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
• GPU: GeForce RTX5060 8G

Any recommendations will help, im looking for something at 144hz or higher under $350