u/NailgunYeah

Rachel Pearce makes first female ascent of Indian Face, E9 6c (7b/+ or 12c~ X)
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Rachel Pearce makes first female ascent of Indian Face, E9 6c (7b/+ or 12c~ X)

Possibly the most infamous trad climb in the UK, long considered basically a death route or solo, notorious for technical insecure moves on snappy rock with completely shit gear protecting its hardest climbing.

ukclimbing.com
u/NailgunYeah — 1 day ago

AuDHD and tactics for overstimulation at busy crags

As someone with separate Autism and ADHD diagnoses I struggle with overstimulation at busy crags, particularly regarding noise. This manifests itself as intense anxiety and fatigue and an inability to think clearly. This was evident recently at a popular DWS crag where the noise of the sea + wind + many people meant I didn’t feel comfortable climbing until much later in the day when almost everyone had left. Unfortunately they left because the beach had gone into shade and the temperature dropped significantly which gave me a short window to do anything before we left ourselves. This is a recurring theme, basically if I want good conditions or to have multiple high quality attempts with rests then I need to climb during times which are unfavourable to my conditions.

To those climbers who have had similar issues, what have you done to mitigate them when you need to be on your game, eg your project is at the busy end of the crag? Understanding my relationship to noise as a trigger has been a recent discovery so I’m keen to pick up tactics to improve not only my ability to perform but my enjoyment of my days out overall.

EDIT: I didn’t specify but my main discipline is route climbing so I’m keen to hear anything that caters for that as well as overall tips

reddit.com
u/NailgunYeah — 1 month ago