u/NassauBeat

On the flight home from a 10 day anniversary trip with the wife where we visited Matera, Taranto, Lecce, Otranto, Castro, Monopoli, Alberobello, Bari, Palignano a Mare, and Ostuni.

Home bases were Matera (2 nights), Lecce (4 nights), and a masseria outside of Monopoli (3 nights). Rented a car and drove. Itinerary felt full but not rushed. Many towns were small and could be visited for a late afternoon of sightseeing followed by dinner. This felt like plenty for, e.g., Alberobello and Ostuni.

Highlight of the trip was without a doubt Matera. The city is one of a kind in the world, I’m convinced. 10,000 years of human history. You can enter the sassi people lived in and see reconstructions of the home. What amazed me is that many Materans were still living in one room sassi with their family’s animals as recently as 60 years ago. Beyond the history the city is beautiful in a unique way. The stars (sassi lights) shine beneath your feet when you’re near the top of the town at night. But bring your walking shoes for many many steps. Did not yet feel too touristy, but I expect a different story in 5-10 years.

Another place that stood out was Lecce. This was the city that felt the least touristy, at least in terms of international tourists. It’s bigger than most of the others, so it was less crowded. The baroque architecture was unparalleled by any other stop. One of the main piazzas has an unearthed Roman amphitheater below it you can view. In Lecce we had the good fortune to stumble on a pizza festival with live music (a regional act) one night that had us dancing with new Italian friends. Always check events going on when you’re visiting (also found another food fest with live music in Alberobello).

If you like wine, visit some wineries while you’re there. The region is known for rosé, primitivo, and negroamari. We visited three wineries. A special shout out to Rosa at Tenuta Parco De Monachi in Basilicata for her warm hospitality on an owner-led tour and tasting.

On a sad note: multiple people at the wineries expressed concern about the effects of climate change. It was very hot (90+ F) our entire visit. We saw many wildfires burning along the sides of the highways driving by.

Otranto was our favorite seaside town. Beautiful old buildings, deep history (visit the Crypt of the 800 Martyrs), good seafood. Baia Dei Turchi beach was an excellent place nearby to swim. Castro was also a surprise to us. Classical bridges and archways framing a lovely marina. Plenty of places to arrange a cave boat tour or rent water sports equipment. Not overcrowded at all.

The only disappointment I would say was Polignano a Mare. Yes, there’s the beach framed by seaside cliffs and old city walls. It’s pretty. But even visiting it on a Monday the beach and water was filled with tourists packed like sardines. Walking and swimming was difficult. Maybe different outside of peak season, but wouldn’t bother going back in the summer months. There are other dramatic beaches to go to.

Food was consistently excellent. Everything tasted fresh, something Puglia is known for. Favorite meal was the family-run seafood restaurant Grotta del Conte in Castro.

Happy to share more details, including specifics on lodging, activities, etc. if anyone is interested.