u/No-Kiwi7723

I currently experience some stability issues with my router. WiFi signal kept dropping and not connecting wireless while the wired connection keeps the internet access.

It started when I upgraded to the 4.9 version from 4.8.3 version. Experienced the issues then downgraded to 4.8.4, but still experienced similar instability issues. So currently on 4.8.3 GL

I'm currently exploring using OpenWRT.

Are there any major benefits to this? I only used AdGuard and possibly looking to use IPV6.

I currently experience some stability issues with my router. WiFi signal kept dropping and not connecting wireless while the wired connection keeps the internet access.

It started when I upgraded to the 4.9 version from 4.8.3 version. Experienced the issues then downgraded to 4.8.4, but still experienced similar instability issues. So currently on 4.8.3 GL

I'm currently exploring using OpenWRT.

Are there any major benefits to this? I only used AdGuard and possibly looking to use IPV6.

Does anyone know if I need to activate my line right away to get the $20 BYOD?

My visible annual plan ends in September the last week I was going to bridge my time until Black Friday with Total wireless but not sure if its possible.

Hey yall,

Looking for some real-world feedback from heavier sleepers or mixed-weight couples who have owned either the Big Fig Luxe or the Helix Plus.

Our Specs & Setup:
Me: 5'8", 285 lbs (Back/side combination sleeper)
Wife: 5'0", 185 lbs (Side/back sleeper)

Bed Base: King-size Adjustable Base (always kept inside a mattress protector)
Climate: South Central Texas (Hot most of the year, so cooling/breathability is important)

The Problem We’re Facing:
We currently have a 4-year-old King Kingsdown Temp IQ Hybrid Firm. Structurally, the coils are fine, but the upper comfort foam on my side has completely broken down. It creates an invisible "sinkhole" the second I lie down. Because the foam springs back flat when unweighted, it doesn’t hit the 1.5-inch impression depth required for a warranty claim, so we’re stuck replacing it out-of-pocket.

What We Need:
Zero "Invisible Sag": We need heavy-duty materials (high-density foam/latex or hand-tufting) that won't lose structural resistance after 2–3 years under 285 lbs.
Adjustable Base Compatibility: Needs pocketed coils that bend smoothly along power base hinge points without straining frame motors.
Dual Comfort/Support: Sturdy spinal support for me, but enough cushion on top so my wife (5'0", 185 lbs) doesn't get shoulder or hip jamming.

Our Top 2 Options:
1. Big Fig Luxe (King)
Why we're looking at it: The 16 physical hand-tufts mechanically lock the comfort layers to the coil unit, which seems like the ultimate solution to prevent the "false flat" foam breakdown we have right now. It also has a 4.75" plush pillow top (6/10 medium-firm feel) for my wife's joints and heavy-duty 80 ILD edge foam rails.
Hesitations: Higher upfront cost (~$2,100+), and wanting to make sure the pillow top doesn't soften up too fast.
2. Helix Plus (Medium Hybrid)
Why we're looking at it: High-density support foam over 13-gauge reinforced steel coils designed for 1,000 lb capacity. It gets great reviews for motion isolation (so my movement doesn't wake my wife)
Hesitations: Lacks physical hand-tufting, and some reviews mention perimeter edge support can compress under heavy sitting weight.

Questions for the Community:
Has anyone around our weight profile owned either of these beds for 2+ years? How have the top comfort layers held up against softening?
How smoothly do these articulate on an adjustable base over time?
For side/back sleepers around 185 lbs, does the Big Fig Luxe pillow top give enough pressure relief, or is the Helix Plus a better balance?

Thanks in advance

Hi Yall,

I’m looking for some advice and real-world experiences from other 2.7L/8L90 owners.

I have a 2026 Silverado 1500 2WD with the 2.7L TurboMax and 8L90 transmission. The truck does not have the Max Trailering Package.

Recently, I made a road trip from San Antonio, TX to Southern California. I make this trip about three times a year, usually with around 400 lbs of cargo in the bed, but I’m not towing.

On the hotter parts of the trip, the outside temperature was close to 100°F, and I was cruising around 70–80 mph. While climbing some of the long, gradual grades on I-10 through West Texas and the Southwest, I noticed the transmission temperature on the dash reached 214°F. The engine RPM stayed fairly steady between 1,500 and 2,000 RPM, and the transmission didn’t seem to be hunting between gears.

Once the outside temperature dropped to around 75°F later that evening, the transmission temperature came back down and stayed around 190°F during normal highway driving.

The truck never displayed a “Transmission Hot” warning or showed any signs of abnormal shifting.

My questions are:
Are these temperatures considered normal for this truck under these conditions?

Has anyone else with a 2025–2026 2.7L/8L90 seen similar temperatures on long highway grades?

For those who frequently drive through hot climates have you installed an auxiliary transmission cooler? If so, what kind of temperature reduction did you see?

Has anyone installed the PPE auxiliary transmission cooler on a 2026 2.7L? I’m interested in real-world results and whether you noticed any downsides.

From a longevity standpoint, would you be comfortable seeing occasional 210–214°F temperatures a few times a year, or would you recommend upgrading the cooling system to reduce long-term wear on the transmission fluid and transmission?

I’m planning to keep this truck for a long time, so I’m trying to be proactive rather than waiting for problems. I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with similar experience or anyone who has monitored transmission temperatures on long desert highway trips.

Thanks in advance!

Hey y’all,
I’m currently running a 22" Weber Master-Touch equipped with a Spider Venom fan controller. My go-to right now is the Slow 'N Sear Deluxe, which has been great, but I'm looking at those ceramic kamado inserts (like the Onlyfire) and wondering if it would actually make a noticeable difference in performance. I know the SnS and the kamado insert won't fit at the same time, so it would mean swapping them out.

For those of you who have used the ceramic inserts:
Does it actually give you that kamado-level heat retention and fuel efficiency?

How does it play with an automated fan like the Venom pushing air from underneath?

Do you guys use the insert only for longer cooks (like pork butts, ribs, or pastrami), or do you just leave it in the kettle full-time for grilling too?

Would love to hear if the upgrade is worth it to add to my current setup. Thanks!

I’m currently leasing a 2023 Kia and need to figure out my options for getting out of it early. We are looking to transition into a Toyota or Chevy truck, but I’m not sure of the best path forward given we don't plan on keeping the Kia.

The Current Situation:
Vehicle: 2023 Kia
Remaining Lease: 23 months
Current Payment: $650/month
Mileage: Under the yearly limit
Equity: Roughly $1,000 negative right now (trade-in value is about $1k below my payoff quote).

The Goal: I want to lease a Toyota (Tacoma/Tundra) or Chevy (Colorado/Silverado) with a target payment of around $450–$500/month.

Where I Need Advice:
Kia’s Buyout Rules: I know Kia Finance America (KFA) generally does not allow lease transfers, and they are notoriously strict about blocking third-party lease buyouts. Because of this, a standalone Chevy or Toyota dealer might not be able to just buy it out directly. Has anyone navigated this recently in Texas? Do I have to trade it into a dealership that has a Kia store in their auto group, or do I have to buy it out myself first?
Rolling Negative Equity: If I am indeed $1k negative, is rolling that into a new lease feasible without completely blowing my $450–$500/month budget?
Feasibility: Are $450–$500/month leases even realistic right now for these crew cab trucks (assuming Tier 1 credit and minimal cash due at signing)?

Any insights, strategies, or recent experiences with exiting a KFA lease early would be hugely appreciated!

Just finished my first cook with the venom controller and SnS in my 22” kettle.

I only lit 12 briquettes to start with btw. I had it set to 275F and it overshot to 331F within 30 mins and wasn’t very consistent in the 4.5 hrs until the last hour of cook.

I also notice the ambient temp probe seems to be off by 15-25 degrees compared to my TempPro TB829. Notice the temperature spike to 330-340F on the TempPro and Venom has it closer to 310F.

What should I be doing differently?

In the market for a temp controller/fan setup for my 22" kettle and could use some input from those who have put theirs through the wringer. I'm usually cooking with a Slow 'N Sear and want to dial in my overnight/long cooks.
I'm perfectly fine with drilling a hole in the kettle to hard-mount a fan adapter, so it doesn't need to be a strictly "no-mod" plug-and-play unit.
My main hesitation with some of the models I've seen online is spotty connectivity and cheap fans. I'm looking for a unit that has a highly reliable app connection and a durable fan that can actually survive the heat and elements.