Hi
How is everyone fitting out a shipping container. I assume standard conduit and saddles with screw won’t really work here?
This is completely new to me so and advice would be great to quote this fitout.
Cheers
Hi
Just wanting to confirm if a service fuse isn’t required to be installed if there is none for the existing meters that have not been touch or moved when doing a switchboard upgrade as in the photos attached?
Pretty sure they are not required unless you are moving the meters or swapping out the board with a new one but not 100%
QLD
Cheers
Hi
I have a potential 3 phase upgrade to do for a client who currently has single phase with solar.
Wondering what happens with the solar once upgraded to 3 phase? Does it just go on one of the phases or does the solar need to be upgraded?
Hi
Just after a bit of advice on pricing for property maintenance.
I recently met a local property manager who’s taken over 8 x 2–3 storey apartment blocks about 2km from my place.
They need ongoing maintenance, mainly replacing light bulbs (body corp supplied, I've already mentioned upgrading to LED but he said they don't want to spend the money), faulty sensors, and other general electrical maintenance in the common areas and apartments they manage.
Body corporate approval is only needed for jobs over $2k.
I quoted $220 for the first hour and $155/hr after that (dropped my usual rate a bit to try and secure the ongoing work), but he seemed a bit hesitant.
For those doing this sort of work, how are you charging? Hourly, day rate, or something else?
Based in Bris, no employees and don’t plan on it.
Cheers for any advice!
Hi
Is anyone using service m8 phone for their business and would you recommend it?
Did you use the number they provided or change to your original business number? I currently have a mobile number that’s branded everywhere already.
Cheers!
Hi
Is this point of attachment hard to move? Rotting timber and needs to be moved probably just to the left. Don’t have much experience with POA so wondering what’s involved. QLD based
Cheers
So looking to replace this oven and stove top with a new 20amp induction cooktop and 15amp oven. (8kw total). Existing setup is on a 25amp breaker. Obviously would be best to upgrade the cable to 6mm and put on a 32amp rcbo but access doesn’t favour this.
There is no isolator switch currently for the stove top but just unsure if this is classed as a like for like replacement or not? Does an isolation switch need to be added to the setup.
I think having both the new oven and stove top on a new 25 amp rcbo will be ok as long as the client isn’t using 2-3hotplates and oven at the same time often as it will trip the breaker.
Cheers
Hi
Does anyone have experience separating upstairs/ downstairs of a home before for seperate private metering?
Both upstairs and downstairs have their own switchboard. Just need to meter both separately so the 2 seperate tenants can pay for what they use.
It’s not possible to go down the full seperate Energex metering without a huge expense to the client.
Can the private meter be read remotely so the owner can then divide the electricity bill and send to their tenants?
Any advice on the situation would be great and potentially what meters to use. It’s 3 phase.
Cheers!
Hi,
Has anyone here signed up to Alan’s simplified sparking marketing coaching?
If so can you please message me. Would love to have a chat!
Cheers
Hi all
Electrical contractor here. I have a previous client wanting the following done. (have done work for him at his property previously (decent client)).
After any advice on how to tackle this one?
Client has a dual occupancy property at Holland Park West QLD with 3-phase supply.
Upstairs and downstairs are rented separately. Current issue is the sub-boards are effectively swapped: • Downstairs sub-board is in upstairs garage • Upstairs sub-board is in downstairs laundry
Client wants the installation reworked so: • Downstairs circuits + solar are relocated/terminated in laundry board • Upstairs circuits + hot water are relocated/. terminated in garage board • Each tenancy only has access to its own circuits
They also want future provision for separate Energex metering/accounts for each tenancy if not possible immediately. Potentially set up for 2 meters / 2 NMIs later. Existing meter already in laundry, may only need additional meter position for upstairs.
In the meantime, they want private kWh check meters installed: • Upstairs usage meter to exclude HWS • Downstairs usage meter to exclude solar generation So they can split bills accurately.
Other requests: • Investigate/repair garage ceiling light (upstairs circuit) • Confirm solar inverter size • Confirm solar array size on roof • Check if solar system appears to be operating correctly
The garage ceiling will be removed soon for a week and will allow access for re wiring.
FYI - I have no solar experience
Hi
Can someone explain what all these old meters are doing? I’m a sparky but I haven’t had anything to do with meters. The one on the far right was moving so assuming this is the light/power meter.
What are the other 2 doing? Need to upgrade the board.
Cheers
I did it.
I regret it.
I ignored the warnings from others.
Sales rep got to me. (Sales pitch was that in Brisbane only 1 person accepting a lead per job on average so it isn’t very competitive atm). $430+ per month, 6 month contract.
It’s complete dogshit (0 jobs so far after like 900 credits used).
Be warned people!!
Just my personal opinion.
Hope this helps 🙂
Hi I have a client that has a low inso reading between A-N on his mains (underground). Dead short (Energex has disconnected from pillar box). Pillar box is about a 30-35 meter run from the switchboard.
Needing to run a new cable in conduit with a new trench as there’s no give in existing conduit.
Wondering if I should upgrade to 25mm building wire instead of the current 16mm building wire on the A + N that is currently run. Volt drop for 16mm over a 35m run at 80A load is 3.41%. Even at 63A load volt drop is 2.69%. I believe this should be under 2% for mains but would like to confirm.
Cheers
Have a client that has an low inso reading between A-N on his mains (underground). Dead short (Energex has disconnected from pillar box). Pillar box is about a 30-35 meter run from the switchboard.
Needing to run a new cable in conduit with a new trench as there’s no give in existing conduit.
Wondering if I should upgrade to 25mm building wire instead of the current 16mm building wire on the A + N that is currently run. Volt drop for 16mm over a 35m run at 80A load is 3.41%. Even at 63A load volt drop is 2.69%. I believe this should be under 2% for mains but would like to confirm.
Cheers
Hi
Have a client that wants some smart switches. I’m changing there down lights to rapid LED DLs and then they requested this.
“Whichever one that can connect to grid connect or something similar? Just something that might allow us to turn the lights on or off remotely?
Don’t think they will pay top tier for like pixie or something like that.
Any recs would be great.
Cheers
Hi
Got approached to do this as an electrical contractor. Anyone know if this would work? I am very keen on more leads!
Not sure if it would be worth the money? Anyone have experience with something similar and has it worked?
Cheers
Hi all
Electrical contractor here. I have a previous client wanting the following done. (have done work for him at his property previously (decent client)).
After any advice on how to tackle this one?
Client has a dual occupancy property at Holland Park West QLD with 3-phase supply.
Upstairs and downstairs are rented separately. Current issue is the sub-boards are effectively swapped: • Downstairs sub-board is in upstairs garage • Upstairs sub-board is in downstairs laundry
Client wants the installation reworked so: • Downstairs circuits + solar are relocated/terminated in laundry board • Upstairs circuits + hot water are relocated/. terminated in garage board • Each tenancy only has access to its own circuits
They also want future provision for separate Energex metering/accounts for each tenancy if not possible immediately. Potentially set up for 2 meters / 2 NMIs later. Existing meter already in laundry, may only need additional meter position for upstairs.
In the meantime, they want private kWh check meters installed: • Upstairs usage meter to exclude HWS • Downstairs usage meter to exclude solar generation So they can split bills accurately.
Other requests: • Investigate/repair garage ceiling light (upstairs circuit) • Confirm solar inverter size • Confirm solar array size on roof • Check if solar system appears to be operating correctly
The garage ceiling will be removed soon for a week and will allow access for re wiring.
FYI - I have no solar experience.
Hi
I’m quoting a job in a new tenancy (vet clinic) they are using a lot of existing power and data and I’m just rearranging and adding power and data. There is a data rack in the tenancy but I’m not sure how to get these ports live and working? I had a look around for the nbn incoming but couldn’t find it.
How does this type of thing work in the commercial world? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the rookie question, I mainly do resi but have done plenty of commercial for other companies and never had to deal with the commissioning side of things.
Thanks!
(Sparky here) So to update this meter board in QLD(for a client) I believe the process is to update to side hinged meterbox such as a Hagar VYMBQ for example.
Move all the meters into the new board and supply a main switch that feeds the sub board (In decent condition behind the current meter box)
Then after all that submit and EWR to Energex to reseal the meters. After this the supply contractors can come swap the meters out for new digital ones.
Is this correct? Is this how you would go about it or would you delete the sub board and move it all into the new meter box?
Cheers!