r/AskAusElectricians

Hello electricians, mera naam lavkush (20,M) , mujhe apne gaav ke ek uncle ke ghar ki fresh wiring karni hai plz ishme meri madad karo aap sabhi log.

Single phase Meter sancinatioed load paryaapt hai unka,

Tubelight: 360W

Fan: 240W

Old Box TV: 100W

Coil Heater: 2000W

Deep Freezer: 270W

Hot case machine: 1000W

Mixer: 750W

Cloth Iron: 1000W

Water immersion Rod:1000W

Chargers & Miscellaneous: 500W

Inverter & Battery: ?

(Washing Machine+Geyser+Flour Mill for Kitchen+Toster+Microwave Oven+Cooler+AC+other comman appliances

🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕🖕👆

Yeh appliances future mein lagenge abhi nahi hai woh in future dheere dheere chote applicance se bade appliances khareed ke lagayenge )

Toh ab mujhe kaise kaha se start karna hai kya requirements hongi batado.

Unhone jaise bataya woh kuch ish prakar hai...

Mains Line> kitkat fuse > Mcb changeover switch > Voltage Protector > RCCB > LOAD

Ab aap log meri madad karo kuch choot raha ho toh and kaise wiring kare, kitne Amp ke MCBs le, changeover switch kitne AMPs, Kitkat fuse kitne amp ka and single wire kitne mm square ki leni hai pure ghar ki wiring ke liye and dual core wire kaunsi leni hai.

Single pole MCB kitna chahiye and kish type ke mcb lagega+Extension Board kitne amp ka aur kitne lagane padenge+Inverter ke saath low appliances ka connection kaise kare and heavy appliances ko direct mains se chalana h+ etc

In my 10+ years of being a spark I’ve only ever replaced the whole fitting. Someone once told me that if you replace the battery and that wasn’t the issue then it’ll cost way more to do a full replacement on a second visits.

I personally would prefer to replace the battery as I think it is a waste. I’ve worked for 4 different companies of all sizes and it’s the same everywhere.

For the domestic sparkies here, what part of residential work actually does your head in?

Chasing walls, crawling under houses, dealing with customers, renovations where nothing is straight, switchboard upgrades, or something else?

Our existing single element resistive HWS is dying (after about 15 years), and as we have solar I'd like to continue to use my existing timer and bypass circuit to mostly heat during solar times, but also have the always-on top element for instances where the teenager uses all of our hot water. Would this "simply" be a case of adding a parallel run from the same RCBO, bypassing the timer/bypass?

Current setup in the switchboard is main RCBO, then next to it is a physical timer, and a wifi-controllable Shelley relay in parallel, so the HWS can be remotely turned on for a period of time if required when a boost is required. Ideally this would continue to operate, running the bottom element of the desired new HWS only during designated periods (the element will be swapped out to a 2.4kW so less draw but over a longer period). To achieve the aim of having the top element permanently powered, can a new parallel wire be added from the main RCBO to that element? I think our switchboard DIN rail is about as full as it can get, so not really any room for a wider RCBO if required for both sets of wires?

Having trouble getting hold of my usual electrician, so just trying to get a prior idea of what's feasible and what I might be up for, before trying to sort out a HWS.

You see some DIY jobs that start off looking simple and end up making the electrician’s job twice as hard. Not having a go at people who like doing things themselves, but there are definitely a few jobs that are better left alone and done the first time properly.

Hey,

I have a sparkie coming around next week to install a TV mount in a 40 year old house, he will be installing a recessed point for both power and antenna and I have asked to see if we can try running the media cables behind the wall - in prep for this what type of HDMI cable and what length is typically recommended? Any brands/suppliers?

A quick google search showed I needed CL3 (I think?) but I haven't seen anything on packaging that shows this

Hi folks,

So I bought a property near Ballarat. It has a cabin on it, and a meter box with a power point. The cabin and the meter box are not connected, and are on opposite sides of the property, as the previous owners put in the meter box intending to build next to it. I don't want to get the cabin connected, I literally just want the one powerpoint in the meter box to work so I can park my RV next to it. The power has been off at the property for more than 12 months.

I got an electrician in to do a COES (certificate of electrical safety) so I could get the power on. He issued a non-prescribed one. He said to get a prescribed one I needed to make an account with a retailer, get them to contact the distrubutor and physically re-energise the property, and only then could he do another inspection and issue the full COES. However, when I contact retailers, they all say I need the full prescribed COES to turn the power on. I rang the distributor (Powercor) and they said I needed to make an account with a retailer and the retailer needed to contact them. But I cannot make an account as I do not have a COES to get the power on. I rang energy safe Victoria, and they said the electrician should be able to put in the re-connection request with Powercor, but when I rung an electrician he said no it's the retailers job. So basically it seems I can't get power without a COES that I can't get without power.

Additonally, I seem to have messed something up somewhere along the way trying to make accounts with like 6 retailers and now when I try to sign up with retailers it comes up with business plans. I contacted powercor again to tell them its a residential property and they said I needed to make a business account with a retailer before they could switch it back to residential, but that doesn't sound right to me?

I've been trying for about 2 months now, but I've just been being bounced between people telling me it's someone else's job. So if anyone could give me abvice about what steps to follow or who to contact it would be great. I literally just want one single powerpoint to work, lmao. Thanks for any advice!

Hi all!
I’m trying to get in to do a mature apprenticeship (I just turned 30) trying to get into a career that I will enjoy doing.
The only problem I’m having is after applying and sending emails and calls I’m not getting anywhere.
I’m either getting “we arnt hiring apprentices at this time” to “the boss will get back to you “ but they never do after call after call and email.

I’ve even been applying for out of town for example I’m willing to travel 2 hours to the city if someone gave me a chance.

What am I doing wrong?
I’ve got a white card and reliable car and full license.

Hi, hoping to get some advice on replacing an induction cooktop please.

TLDR: Can a 7.35kw induction cooktop and a 2.4kw oven be safely installed on a 32A circuit? And is it a job that most electricians would be comfortable carrying out? If not, would there be any reason a lower current 19.7A/4.5kW cooktop would also be problematic on the shared circuit?

Full context below, apologies for the wall of text:

My previous cooktop cracked and I’ve bought a cheap 7.35kW replacement that I thought would be a straightforward like for like job to replace.

However, an electrician who came to look at it wouldn’t take the job on because the cooktop is sharing a 32A circuit with a 2.4kW oven and therefore the maximum potential output of both devices combined exceeds the capacity of the circuit. He spoke about the potential for nuisance trips which I understand, but we’ve lived here for two and a half years and that hasn’t happened once with the existing setup (old cooktop was 7.4kW).

The options he gave were to either find a different cooktop with a lower current, completely disconnect the oven so it’s no longer usable, or add a new circuit which is not practical for reasons I won’t bore you with.

He was a very nice and trustworthy bloke and clearly cares about providing a high quality of service. I had assumed he said no due to a legal/code requirement but I’ve looked into it more and am not sure whether that’s correct or it’s more a case of what he considers best practice and is comfortable carrying out.

I don’t have an issue with returning the cooktop I bought and replacing it with a lower current one if that’s the sensible solution. Just looking for some other opinions before I go ahead with that.

Also on price - he quoted $900-1000 plus GST to replace the cooktop and install an RCD and a local isolation switch as neither of these are in place. Does that cost sound reasonable? We’re in Sydney if that’s makes any difference.

Would appreciate and suggestions and advice as I know nothing about any of this, cheers!

Hi there - I have a fault in the power circuit to my kitchen that pops the breaker when there's a heavy dose of rain overnight. Not every time it rains, and never during the day. Most times a breaker reset fixes it, but twice now it kept tripping every 10 secs so l unplugged every single item attached to the circuit to try and isolate it (fridge, dishwasher, microwave and appliances, all plugged into power points, oven and cooktop are on separate circuits). It still kept tripping. Eventually it just comes good again after a few hours when the rain stops. No other circuit in the house is affected.

So my guess is there's a moisture issue somewhere but I can't isolate it to a specific power point, so I'm not sure how a sparky will be able to work it out unless I can line one up to come immediately in one of the moments when the power keeps tripping and before it clears up. Is there anything else I can do to isolate the issue before calling someone out?

Cheers

I am looking at replacing an old ceiling fan (AC) with a new fan (DC).

Is the old wiring suitable for the new fan, or does it need replacing as well?

Thanks