Kimonanthe – My Thoughts on One of Diptyque's Forgotten Fragrances
I absolutely adore Diptyque. From the brand's identity and exceptional customer service to the perfumes themselves, everything feels thoughtfully crafted.
I own full bottles of the vintage, cracked-glass presentation of Benjoin Bohème and Philosykos EDP, along with a large decant of Orphéon EDP that I'll be upgrading when it runs out. I also find Tempo, Tam Dao, Eau Duelle, Eau Capitale and Oud Palao particularly beautiful, and appreciate many more.
Considering the discontinued Kimonanthe originally came from the same collection as my beloved Benjoin Bohème, I couldn't resist picking up a sample when I spotted one online, and blimey, what an extraordinary perfume this is.
Many people compare it to cherry cough syrup, but I'm particularly sensitive to cherry in perfume, and I don't get that here. Instead, it's sweet and camphoric like an aged balsamic remedy, with a thick, sticky fruitiness that leans more towards the nectarous nature of peach and apricot than cherry. This is certainly coming from the generous helping of osmanthus. The whole fragrance feels like a shade of dark orange, with a rich, viscous texture, as though sun-ripened stone fruits have been slowly reduced into a dense elixir.
It never feels too sweet though - the Japanese incense quickly restores the balance. This doesn't smell cold and austere like ecclesiastical frankincense (LAVS, Cardinal, Eau Sacrée), nor green and foresty like smoky cypress (Kyoto, Hwyl, Hinoki One), but rather resinous and timeworn, like a piece of ancient wood that's been scrubbed clean, lacquered, and left to absorb decades of warm spices and leathery resins.
I notice some vague similarities to Diptyque's 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain in the warm, woody, subtely floral character, but here the constant presense of osmanthus colours the fragrance in an entirely unique light. The two halves are blended exquisitely, and it's only in the opening that the thick, apricot-flavoured syrup briefly overshadows the deeper, more contemplative incense.
If you've made it this far, you must be as passionate about reading olfactive monologues as I am about writing them! As is probably clear, I'm incredibly impressed with Kimonanthe and can see why it once belonged to the same collection as Benjoin Bohème. They smell nothing alike, yet they overlap in atmosphere, feeling, and emotion, both evoking something mystical and timeless.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on this one - whether you've tried it, whether it sounds like something you'd enjoy, and whether these words have inspired you to hunt down a sample. Do feel free to share your favourite Diptyque fragrances too - I always enjoy reading what others have fallen in love with 😊